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Cat
2007-05-24, 9:23pm
I've had the Glasscraft hood for about 9 months and I have to upgrade this fan. It's just not cutting it. I'm currently on a Betta, but getting a larger torch. It's "acceptable" when working soft glass, but not boro. I'm getting too many fumes and signs of poor ventilation when working boro. I only have one foot of duct needed to get the fumes outside, I have replacement air and I also have the vent hood situated about 1-1/2 feet above my head and it's just not cutting it. I'm beginning to think it's not much better than no ventilation at all.

Here's my problem. I live in area where there are no sources for any type of replacement fan. Does anyone know where I can get one - has anyone done this? I'd love to have a link to a site I can purchase one from and even better to know exactly which one to get. There's just nowhere for me to locate one here.

bhhco
2007-05-25, 4:47am
Hood too high. Probably not properly located relative to torch body either. Those are not things you can fix with a bigger fan.

Me

cheeky monkey
2007-05-25, 5:23am
I ditched that little fan early on. Had my HVAC guy install a furnace blower (yeah) and new ducting. I think I posted the set up a while ago but heres a shot or 2 again if you are interested. BTW - the little duct to the left is my dryer duct. I have a 10' replacement air duct coming in from the other side of the house right into the worktable. The 2nd photo is the vent to the outside with a sprng loaded flap on it. Bigger than it looks. Everything is perfect now :cool:

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Cat
2007-05-25, 7:22am
Hood too high. Probably not properly located relative to torch body either. Those are not things you can fix with a bigger fan.

Me

The actual fan component itself is 1-1/2 feet above the torch. The hood is closer than 1-1/2 feet from the torch. Any lower and my face would be in the fan or I'd have to climb under it to start working. It's setup correctly.

Cat
2007-05-25, 7:24am
I ditched that little fan early on. Had my HVAC guy install a furnace blower (yeah) and new ducting. I think I posted the set up a while ago but heres a shot or 2 again if you are interested. BTW - the little duct to the left is my dryer duct. I have a 10' replacement air duct coming in from the other side of the house right into the worktable. The 2nd photo is the vent to the outside with a sprng loaded flap on it. Bigger than it looks. Everything is perfect now :cool:


I like your setup, but I can't do that where I'm at - and I'm leaving in the coming months. I was hoping to find a fan to switch out with the one that is currently installed.

Deb Hopeful Journeys
2007-05-25, 7:27am
Did you try Grainger for a new fan. I know that is where many others have bought theirs.

bhhco
2007-05-25, 8:27am
...I also have the vent hood situated about 1-1/2 feet above my head...

...The hood is closer than 1-1/2 feet from the torch....

I'm having difficulty visualizing where your head is, if the hood is 1-1/2 feet above your head, but the hood is closer than 1-1/2 feet from the torch. A picture would help.

The answer most folks turn to is the Tim the Toolman 'More Power!' approach... bigger fan. Given your exhaust run is only 1', the problem is not likely the fan. It is more likely the hood positioning (even though you think is correct), or the duct or makeup air... or possibly some other close by system.

Me

Cat
2007-05-25, 8:37am
IThe answer most folks turn to is the Tim the Toolman 'More Power!' approach... bigger fan. Given your exhaust run is only 1', the problem is not likely the fan. It is more likely the hood positioning (even though you think is correct), or the duct or makeup air... or possibly some other close by system.

Per Glasscraft, this fan is not sufficient for larger torches or fuming. I am now moving in that direction and according to their own information, I need a larger fan.

lenora
2007-05-25, 8:40am
Here is a link to a 900 CFM in-line duct fan that will work with your hood. This is what I upgraded to and it works great! Just read the directions about hooking it up to draw 900 instead of 650. You will need to hook up the power cord from your current fan to this one, but it is super easy. I did it myself. Just let me know if you have any questions. Also, do you have baffles installed? That will help in making your system more efficient.

What kind of problems are you having? Do you smell fumes or are you having physical symptoms?

http://www.alerg.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AF8061

Cat
2007-05-25, 8:45am
Here is a link to a 900 CFM in-line duct fan that will work with your hood. This is what I upgraded to and it works great! Just read the directions about hooking it up to draw 900 instead of 650. You will need to hook up the power cord from your current fan to this one, but it is super easy. I did it myself. Just let me know if you have any questions. Also, do you have baffles installed? That will help in making your system more efficient.

http://www.alerg.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AF8061

Thank you soooooo much!!!! :)

Dale M.
2007-05-25, 8:51am
Would rather see a 700 to 900 cfm squirrel cage blower used instead of in line fans... In lines are not as efficient as a squirrel cage and the heat of the air passing around motor causes them to fail sooner....

Dale

Cat
2007-05-25, 8:57am
I placed my order. This will get me through the summer. Dale, when I move I plan to rethink my ventilation and will probably get a bigger setup. For right now, I just need a temporary fix. It has to be something I can easily do myself and this looks like the perfect solution.

Cat
2007-05-25, 8:59am
What kind of problems are you having? Do you smell fumes or are you having physical symptoms?

I'll start getting a headache if I work boro for long periods of time. I'm ok with soft glass - no problems and I can work for hours.

bhhco
2007-05-25, 9:00am
OK... this is getting tiresome when folks are so certain they have 'the solution' that they will not listen. So this is my last post on this. As for the fan suggested in the above post, here's the fan curve for that fan. Note that it actually flows a maximum of 450 CFM... that's less than the original fan provided with the hood. Ask Dale if you don't believe me.

http://www.suncourt.com/Graphs/310g.jpg

Me

p.s. the difference with the boro is the oxygen velocity used in shaping the flame and now I KNOW what the problem really is.

Cat
2007-05-25, 10:07am
I was worried that I just purchased a fan that is equal or less than the fan I currently have. I checked the model number on my system and it's a DB210. According to Suncourt's site, the DB210 and the DB310 (set at low speed) have the same output that appears on the left side of that graph. The DB310 set at high speed has the output shown on the right. Isn't that showing a large improvement over the DB210 output shown on the left? I'm honestly confused - isn't that telling me that I am getting a more powerful fan than I currently have - which is the DB210? If I'm reading your interpretation of the chart correctly, the fan that I have with my system has a maximum flow of 250 and this is the fan that was provided with the hood.

http://www.suncourt.com/Graphs/210-310LG.jpg
http://www.suncourt.com/Graphs/310g.jpg

Dale M.
2007-05-25, 10:41am
From what I know of the fan on GLASSCRAFT hood and the fan (310) you just ordered they are about the same performance levels.... By looking at the figures on paper, you have not gained anything...

For a "canopy style" hood of this size its probably best to use the 125cfm per square foot rule... Doing the math dictates you want a minimum of 910 cfm... So anything 925 to 950 cfm would probably be best for upgrade...

Even if you put sides on hood and drop them down top bench height to create a open front "fume cabinet" and use the 100cfm rule for cabinets you need to have at least 710 cfm....

Dale