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-   -   Clio trouble (http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=306246)

Glassy 2018-06-10 2:21am

Clio trouble
 
Hi everyone,
I have not been lampworking for a while and have been looking forward to using my order from DH. Part of that was some Clio (regular and seconds). I noticed straight away that the regular rods were a mid amber colour rather than a very light pinky clear, like my last batch.

After 2 frustrating days of trying to make some Bollywood Pink beads like I used to (thanks to Anouks tutorial) I am thinking I might have a mislabled lot of glass? The seconds rods are closer in colour to the ones I used to have,but don't give me any pink either :-?

Anyone else having problems... any input would be greatly appreciated!!
I am working on a rather old Nortel Minor with 2 also rather old 5L Oxycons.
Have tried Clio over white, white, striking orange and clear, I heat it quite hot, shape, cool and reduce in a cool reduction flame....can not even seem to get the mirror shine more or an oil slick..... Tried Zephir, Super Clear and Aether....totally confused

Any suggestions?
Thanks, Petra

Any suggestions?

della 2018-06-10 3:07am

When I use Clio, the only DH I seem to understand, I use any orangish rod I have; doesn't need to be a striking orange. Make a very small base bead, clear encase that thinly but absolutely totally down to the mandrel on the ends, no orange peeking out anywhere. Cool slightly, add the Clio, just working at the regular heat, slightly oxidizing flame. Get it shaped the way you want it. While it is still hot from working, hold it under the table to watch for it to go from bright (hot) to little or no glow. Wave the cooled off Clio at the end of a reducing flame (propane up or oxygen down) for literally four or five slow seconds. The bead will get a slight haze on it. Then encase thoroughly. You might want to be heating up the clear while you are cooling off the bead. When melting the encasement over the Clio heat only the clear, avoiding getting Clio directly in the flame. I like using a large diameter clear for this; more coverage, faster, less panic. I like to roll the Clio layer on a ribbed marver or cutting the clio layer with a blade before reducing and encasing. A VERY sparse sprinkle (literally 12 to 20 grains) of Kronos largish frit looks cool on the final clear layer. I use the exact equipment you are using. Good luck!
della

Glassy 2018-06-10 5:03pm

Thank you Della for your reply, that is nearly the same as I have done and in the past it has worked wonderfully for me.....but not with this new batch :cry::cry:
What colour is your Clio rod and have you had it for a while?

KJohn 2018-06-10 6:56pm

if it has been a while since you used silver glass, (or made beads) you may find you need to work out the timing again. I did set aside my silver glass for a while, and had to get the hang of it again too. I find many of the reduction glasses will reduce slightly in a regular flame, the trick is getting them cool enough for that final pass.

beadgal 2018-06-11 8:31am

I also find that more time in the kiln will help get the rich ruby color.

KJohn 2018-06-11 10:08pm

hehe funny i'm giving advice, I just tried some clio beads last night and they suck. Stayed sort of amber. I didn't use a base for them, I guess my fault. yuck.

Petra, have you tried again yet?

Glassy 2018-06-12 5:39pm

1 Attachment(s)
Hi KJohn,
thanks for the suggestions earlier on, unfortunately not had the time to try them out...hopefully this afternoon ;)
on your latest Clio attempt....even without an orange or white base it should not stay amber after reducing...

I have taken a shot of the new rod and in comparison my last little piece of the older clio. What does yours look like?

Have a good day :)

Eileen 2018-06-12 6:57pm

I played with a rod of a test glass that was a Clio type I think, and got amber, LOL But my bead release broke so it wasn't really finished.
(many mandrels, maybe all the rain lately since they are out in a shed from a few weeks ago)

KJohn 2018-06-12 9:06pm

I was surprised too, I didn't think I had that much trouble getting color the last time I used it. But it really looked like murky amber. **sigh** I think Kalypso spoiled me. I will need to play with it some more

Locococo 2018-06-13 12:23am

Petra............did you put some clear between the striking orange and Clio?
I'm just asking to rule out some mishaps.

I figured out that the initial color of the rod doesn't matter. The result will be the same.
It just shows different pulling cycles.

Maybe I'm not of any help here b/c I never used the white/orange base.
I like the deep transparent looking pink on Clio therefore I only used Clio and clear glass.
At no point do I reduce Clio. I'm using an oxidizing flame for the whole process. I' m striking the glass.

To find out if your Clio is working you can make a test bead in the following way.

Make a small barrel bead out of Clio. Heat it up until getting clear and let it cool down.
Reheat the barrel in the same oxidizing flame w/o getting it to an orange glow.
It will look nothing special at this point. Encase with clear and put it into your kiln.

For this set of beads I used 2 layers of Clio and 1 layer of clear glass to fill out the lentil press.
At the far right lentil you can spot a lightly undertone of amber.
It depends on the lighting.



Elke :waving:



KJohn 2018-06-13 4:30pm

gorgeous!

So Elke, are you saying it kiln strikes, and we should not expect much color before that?

Ali Oops 2018-06-13 4:59pm

Elke those beads are beautiful. Thanks for sharing

Locococo 2018-06-14 12:54am

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJohn (Post 4993945)
gorgeous!

So Elke, are you saying it kiln strikes, and we should not expect much color before that?


Oh no.....it does mean you can see the deep pink when the bead has cooled down. It just looks unspectacular whilst the bead is still hot.
It has nothing to do with kiln striking.
When I started to work with Clio it took me some time to realize that I wont get the rich pink when I reduce Clio before encasing.
Of course you CAN reduce Clio but you' ll get more blue.
Clio is stated as striking and reducing color.
The blue striation in my lentils occured while I was encasing the barrel and wandered too much towards my torch.

When I got amber looking beads means I have not worked the initial bead hot enough to strike.
I made this one in 2010.......too much amber and blue.



A few weeks later I got it.....




With all of my description I just wanted to say that for me Clio always turns out the same no matter what the rod looks like.
But shit can happen and maybe Petra has gotten a mislabeled batch.

Here's a shot of all my Clio rods.




1. Batch from 2010
2. Batch from 2011
3. Batch from 2011 2nds
4. Batch from 2014
5. Batch from 2017 Clio dark

Thanks for the nice comments.
Elke :waving:

Glassy 2018-06-14 4:06am

3 Attachment(s)
Wow Elke, thank you so much for all that input it really is appreciated! Amazing the differences in all those Clio rods.

Here are a 3 beads I made last night...before I got your idea of the test bead.
The one on the left is striking orange over white, encased in clear, encased in Clio, cooled, reduced, encased in Zephyr.
the focal next to it has a base of striking orange, med amethyst and blueino over white, encased in clear, Clio, reduced, encased in Zephyr (the murrini did not work and while trying to salvage the bead I most likely overworked it)
I was looking for more pink... the pastel blue is nice, but not what I wanted
The 3rd one was actually the first one I made opaque orange, clear, clio, reduced and encased in Aether.... I am assuming it's the Aether reacting to turn it more to a greeny gold.....nice,but not what I was looking for.
Tomorrow I will try just to make a test bead:biggrin: as you suggested.
Again, vielen Dank Petra

Locococo 2018-06-14 11:58am

Petra...you got some pretty bright pink, beautiful beads. \\:D/
So did you made them with the amber looking rod?

Elke :waving:

Glassy 2018-06-14 4:54pm

Thank you Elke, yes they were made with the amber coloured rod. The pink in there is nice I agree, but I would like to get less of the blue (third world problem right).
Will try your method though, without opaques, when I get the time ;).

Petra :)

KJohn 2018-06-14 5:48pm

I think Elke pointed out that reduction makes the blue, so just strike the Clio to have pinks. I will try that as well. I love that rich color, even your "mistake" is gorgeous Elke. Petra, you still got beautiful colors on the first two especially. Shame about the murrine. Silver glass murrine always makes me think twice before using it. LOL

Locococo 2018-06-15 3:35am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glassy (Post 4994110)
yes they were made with the amber coloured rod.

But at least you can be sure it's Clio. :-D
I think I need to try a bead with the white/orange base then Clio.
Just to see what pink I will get.

Elke :waving:

eregel 2018-06-28 1:14am

Elke, what temperature are you garaging/annealing at?

Locococo 2018-06-29 2:46am

c 520/f 968


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