Kiln controller not cycling through program
 

Hi Everyone. I have a kiln controller that I just bought last year, and it was working great. I live in Wisconsin so haven't used it since last summer, and now when I use it, it will not cycle through the program it just stays where it's at.

I had Craig at Arrow Springs help me set up my program, (I emailed him, waiting to hear back but hoping someone else may have the answers) he's awesome!

Anyways, it's set to stay at 960 degrees for quite some time, then when I'm ready to start my 90 minute soak I change the program. The problem is that it never moves to the next segment, it just stays where it's at.

I'm really struggling to understand this piece of technology, so I'm not sure if I made the program "stick", or if I broke it, or what. Gah!! ](*,)

Hopefully someone knows what the heck I'm talking about (cuz I'm not sure I do) and can help. I sure want to start making beads again!!

I am going to bring the controller in and check my program. And I can get the model or other info that may be helpful if anyone needs it.

I don't think I can be of much help but knowing which model you are having problems with is going to help someone tell you how to get from where you are to where you want to get to alot easier than tossing out suggestions.

Good Luck.

There is a system to these things so don't despair.

Hi Phill, thanks for the reply.

I've looked over the controller and there's no information label on it. however, the instructions are labeled as: Model OC-1 Temperature Controller.

woohoo, just found a link to the manual:
http://www.arrowsprings.com/Download...l_08-05-14.pdf

Ah, thank you, an update manual. will be reading that now.

I created a duplicate program for my lampwork to try that. Then I made a batch of beads and during the soak found out that the 90 minute soak is only on T79 after 2 hours. So the timer isn't working correctly. It probably never was, I was wondering why my kiln always felt warm the next day.

Not sure how to fix that. Or if it even can be fixed. :(

Can you see it counting down?

It appears to count UP. I went and checked it again and it had been in a cycle where it should have only been at that temp for 10 minutes, and it was about 63 minutes.

I'll have to wait to talk to the guy I got it from and see if he can figure out what's wrong. I'm just totally confused by this device.

Any possibility that it is dusty?

We used to get screwy symptoms from equipment that had a layer of dust on the circuit boards.

Ants can be a problem too.

No, it's pretty clean in my work room. But you never know about ants, they get everywhere.

I think the last cycle may have been okay, as it had to reduce in temp slowly, so maybe the time I was looking at was normal. But I am certain that the timer/clock (not sure what it is exactly) is not working properly. I'll see if hubby will open up the controller and see if anything managed to get in there.

Not sure if the newer controllers from Arrow Springs have the same buttons as my old one, but I must press "seg ps", then adjust the segment number with the up down buttons, then press "enter" THEN press "seg ps" again. If the "seg ps" button isn't pressed after enter, the program will not advance itself, but will stay on whatever segment number entered.

Example: if segment 1 brings the kiln up to garage temperature, when I am ready to anneal I press "seg ps", up arrow to 2, "enter" "seg ps".

Hi Kathy, thanks for the reply. I don't have those buttons. I have to push the SET and A/M button at the same time to open the program, then I push set until I get to the next segment. Once I make my changes I push Set and A/M again to accept it. At least that's how I understand it. lol

I now believe the timer is faulty, it seems to work better now that I increased the timing to 1.5 for the ramp rate in the soak cycle. Now I'm closer to 90 minutes. If I'm using the correct terminology. But I'd like to get it fixed. Would I take that to an electrician?

Might be a bit outside the experience of a standard electrician.

Small appliance repair might be able to trace down the problem for you but with the costs of technical troubleshooting hours these days you will probably be better off in the wallet just buying a new controller and paying the tech to wire it up for you.


ETA: Timing circuits use capacitors that can go bad and sometimes when they go they will show it by leaking a little or swelling up kind of like a frozen can of soda.
You could look through the ventilation holes and see if you can spot any obvious signs. If so then most technical types, electricians included, could replace parts for relatively little $$$>


Good luck.

Well, I certainly can't afford a new controller. :( I'll see if I can take a look inside and see if anything looks odd. Thanks!

Actually, if you have a local ceramics shop that sells supplies and equipment, they usually have someone that does kiln repairs. Can't hurt to look around and ask.