I'll let you and everyone here know if they do crack or crumble in the future. It's been 9 or so months since they were made... I give you my word to post if they do ever crack.
Jack |
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2) What I'm seeing for working temp for moretti showed 1700. You are completely correct about the length of time held fully molten, but when you apply glass to the mandrel, add it, and melt it in, it's fully molten-at least parts of it are. I'm not comparing devardi's quality to BE. That is apples and oranges. I'm using the information they have posted for a situation, and to me, it applies to torchworking. I feel like I can compare devardi's quality to that of moretti/effetre/vetrofond. Many of the problems experienced with italian glass are very similar to those being reported by devardi users. shocky, check. hates to be encased, check. Alabastros and opalinos anyone? Personally, I gave up on those branches years ago, lol. Too much hassle. My problems with devardi have not been enough for me to feel that way. I don't see a lot of posts in other "glass cracking" threads saying to chuck the whole line of glass, it's worthless. I don't see as many posters in those threads saying that kind of thing who have never used the glass in question. That's what gets people's dander up-and what started the arguing in this thread. |
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But since you asked, you can all me one of the, Moretti, Lauscha, CIM, TAG, Precision, StrikingColor, Vetrofond, Double Helix, ASK, Reichenbach, and future BE people. I use them all. You know, all those manufacturers who answered all the questions and didn't insult their customers for daring to ask. |
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okay, clearly I missed some things in the past which may explain the strong feelings both ways. I did not see the original thread so I have no idea what was said and not said or by whom. I am not going to say anymore other than to say that for me personally, I really like it and will continue to work with it unless that changes.
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I've never seen moretti, lauscha, reichenbach, ask, or vetrofond folks post answering all the questions.
I've seen some suppliers answer many of them, like Frantz, for example. I've seen many small business folks shoot themselves in the foot when posting in these forums, and my buying habits reflect those opinions. I don't see "lasucha cracks" threads going after the vendors, even the universally questionable ones. |
I know exactly what to call you. The only person really insulting people is you I'm sorry to say.
Jack |
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The Semi-opaque white and pink remind me a lot of the opalinos, but they are much more user friendly, I think. Haven't played as much with the pink, though, as I have the white. |
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I got it a long time ago. By you and all of your cohorts my dear. Thank you very much.
Jack |
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Good. I'm glad we can come to a mutual understanding.
Jack |
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Natasha and Daniel did make some poor decisions when they first posted, I think. I weighed that against the "new vendor" and added in the sheer vehemence of the arguments against them. I gave them some leeway based on that factor. Anyone can show their ass once in a while, and I, personally, felt that there was some level of justifiable response from them. I waited to see how Natasha and Daniel would behave over time, because I won't support vendors behaving poorly for much time. When the next shipment came in, and they still hadn't been on the boards, I bought some of the glass. And please show me where I have accused anyone of conspiring to sabotage Devardi. |
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I do not have a problem working Devardi Glass hot. I use a Cricket and 10 LPM Generator.
A few colors have to be introduced slowly into the flame, but I now use a rod warmer and have no problems. Hi Kalera. How are you? Jim |
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As it's not a problem I've experienced, I asked annealing questions. |
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Have a good evening. Jim |
No more comments, but ask yourselves these questions and do the research to find the answers if you really want to begin to understand glass.
1. What makes glass rods shocky? 2. What causes glass to need to be worked at lower temperatures or in the back of the flame? 3. What makes a glass stiffer even though it has the same coe as another glass? 4. What causes a glass not to flow so that it cannot be shaped in the flame? 5. What is "burning" glass really and why does it happen? 6. How can the chemical composition of glass be changed by adding heat? 7. What causes glass to foam? |
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I'd guess the folks that brought it up read it off the site and since they do work cooler, suggested others try it. The working tips are compiled from some users experience, and posted. The folks selling the glass are newbies to the field, thus using terms like "foaming" instead of boiling or devitrifying or shattering when referring to shocky rods. Much like some folks will suggest heating the vermiculite in the crock pot, though logic doesn't follow on that practice either. I'd bet that phrasing will probably fade off the site eventually, as folks get more experience with the glass. |
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All glass will change COE the longer it's batched, which is what's happening when it's held in a liquid state for extended periods of time. No other glass seems to have a problem with becoming self-incompatible from being worked in a torch. I kind of doubt Devardi does, too. |
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Still making ugly beads, but having a blast of a time doing it. |
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I'm pretty sure that Country of Origin is NOT the answer to this question. ;) |
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