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-   -   Help with Millennium Moss haze, scuzz marks (http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=318003)

blueaccord19 2021-11-29 5:50am

Help with Millennium Moss haze, scuzz marks
 
Hi, I'm new to the forum and have tried to search the forum to no avail. I have been working on a piece for my girlfriend. Its a desert cactus theme. I have been trying to make a green cactus out of millenium moss and no matter what I try, I cannot for the life of me keep these white/grayish haze/scuzz marks out of the color. Sometimes I'm successful running the color down some hollow tube and melting it in, but then when I go back to make the cactus marks and do some shaping, it always comes up with these marks in more than one place. I use an oxidizing flame for my first and second stage. I have been using a slightly oxidizing flame as Northstar suggests and it still has this issue. I love and hate this color now. It's becoming a very expensive endeavor trying to use this color and I'm about to switch to a different green that's not so frustrating. I have pics but this forum does not allow much room for pics. Thanks for any input!

rcktscientist 2021-11-29 9:49am

Can you tell if it is devitrification? I was having trouble working china black due to devit. I ended up working the glass hotter and for a shorter time and that improved things considerably. Haze is usually a form of reduction while devit can look like haze but is more about heat and surface tension. Not an expert on moss but it may be devit.

blueaccord19 2021-11-29 10:18am

It may be devitrification. It does look similar to that. I had never heard that term before a couple days ago somehow. I've only had my torch for about 2 years and recently got everything hooked back up after 8 months after having to move. I just have never had this problem before. Thanks for the input. I'll try to treat it as devit and see if it improves. Just wanted to see if anyone had the same issues with this color.

Three Muses Glass 2021-11-29 7:10pm

Can you encase the rod of moss with a thin layer of clear first or would that mess up your design?

Eta- or a light green transparent if you have it. Doesn't have to be clear.

blueaccord19 2021-11-30 5:19am

I tried encasing it in clear, but when I sculpt the pits of the cactus up and down the piece, the clear just doesn't bring out the marks like sculpting it directly into the green unfortunately. I ordered some Northstar Evergreen, so I guess I'll see if I can make that work. I made one piece out of the millenium moss and ever since, I just can't work with it at ALL. And as someone who hasn't had this problem with any other color, I just can't figure out what's going on. I've kept it as cool as possible, and tried to keep it out of the flame, but it takes time to melt it all in and that's when it gets the streaks of devi. I've tried the frit method too and had the same problem on half of the piece. It came out a gray color instead of green. Thanks though!

LarryC 2021-11-30 2:06pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueaccord19 (Post 5119359)
I tried encasing it in clear, but when I sculpt the pits of the cactus up and down the piece, the clear just doesn't bring out the marks like sculpting it directly into the green unfortunately. I ordered some Northstar Evergreen, so I guess I'll see if I can make that work. I made one piece out of the millenium moss and ever since, I just can't work with it at ALL. And as someone who hasn't had this problem with any other color, I just can't figure out what's going on. I've kept it as cool as possible, and tried to keep it out of the flame, but it takes time to melt it all in and that's when it gets the streaks of devi. I've tried the frit method too and had the same problem on half of the piece. It came out a gray color instead of green. Thanks though!

gray? sounds like your reducing it which will cause problems with most aventurines.


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