Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Mr. Smiley
This is so friggin hilarious. I've been laughing all day. I really have. When I had my Mirage, I was told by several people... not sure who, my memory fails me... but I was told to turn down my pressure at the tank reg, because I was having a problem working the soft glass with such a fast driving flame.
|
This puzzles me. I don't know why you would have such a hard time. Maybe the best thing would have been to have someone who routinely runs a soft flame on a GTT to show you how they do it without changing the regulator pressures.
When you turned down your regulator settings, how low did you have to set them to get a soft flame?
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Mr. Smiley
No matter how good you say your valves are, they can't produce a large soft flame unless you turn down line pressure. For any of you that beleive Kimberly, get on a bigger torch on tanked oxy and just try it. You may get a small soft flame like the one she showed, but when you turn the valves open further to get a larger flame, it's rushing at a high rate... this can only be corrected by adjusting line pressure. Period. No magical valve can do that job. GTT makes a heck of a torch, but it just can't do what she claims...
|
Here are some pictures of a large soft flame from the centerfire of my Phantom (the same as a Lynx). Some of them are taken with a flash and some are not. I was trying to get the best picture of the flame. Sometimes, the flash would make parts of the flame invisible.
The flame is roughly 1" across and 12" long. The torch is angled, so it looks shorter. It is a large soft flame made by using only the red and green valves - basically mimicking a Bobcat. This is a "standard" flame, not a triple mix flame. The regulators were set at 50 psi oxygen and 20 psi propane.
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Mr. Smiley
Anybody that can show me a torch that can some how produce a flame in the middle to upper range of that torch in size, in both soft and driving depending only on valve settings, can have a full days worth of my work. Which, if I'm arguing a point with Kimberly that day, won't be much.  |
I have already shown the photographs of the large soft flame. Now, here are some pictures of a driving flame.
The first two pictures are a hard driving flame made with the red, blue, and green valves (triple mix). The third picture is ahard driving flame made with just the red and green valves (standard -again, mimicking the Bobcat). The flame measures in at a length of about 22" for both the triple mix version and the standard version. The torch is angled, as I mentioned earlier, so it looks shorter. The width was different, though as the inner oxygen sharpens the flame. The width for the triple mix version was about 1/2" and the width of the standard version was just a little bit wider. I made the adjustments from the soft flame to the hard driving flame using only the needle valves. The regulators were still set at 50 psi oxygen and 20 psi propane.
Here are some special flames using all three valves on the centerfire of my Phantom.
The laser flame is about 1/4" wide and about as long as the hard driving flame. It was made using the red and blue valves only. The pinpoint flame was very hard to photograph. The thinnest part would not show up no matter what kind of lighting I used. It starts off about 1/4" across then quickly tapers to literally the width of a needle. Again, the regulator pressure is set at 50 psi oxygen and 20 psi propane.
So, there you have it. I have shown that you can get a soft flame and a hard driving flame without changing the regulator settings. I also showed a teeny tiny needle flame that using Brent's logic, should have been blown out by all that high pressure gas ripping through the torch at high pressure. In a previous post, I showed a small soft flame made on a Lynx hand torch - which is the same thing as the centerfire of my Phantom. I used very high pressures just to demonstrate my point that the needle valves control the flame, regardless of regulator settings. The regulator pressures limit the high end of what you can get out of the torch and affect the responsiveness of the needle valves. The photographs that I have posted should speak for themselves and put an end to this nonsense. My point has been proven.
Oh, I almost forgot... There was no "whoosh" sound at any time I was running the torch. There was definitely some hissing while I was running the hard driving flame, but no whooshing.