Thread: Color Questions
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Old 2009-04-19, 9:43am
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Bunyip Bunyip is offline
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You're already getting awesome colors so whatever problem you're having now is just a matter of fine tuning. Here is a collection of things I find useful to remember when working, hopefully they ring some bells for you and help you get what you want.

With the silver colors, amber purples, etc to avoid haze get them hot, burn off the haze, and keep them hot in a neutral to oxidizing flame. Not hot enough to move, but hot enough that the haze doesn't return. Once you've encased an area, haze shouldn't be a concern there any more.

When sculpting amber purples, treat the glass as Mr. Smiley did in his video of the drop pendant, and once you're good and tired of heating it you can sculpt it, taking care to avoid haze development on unencased areas.

Kiln strike. If you don't get the color you were hoping for, put the piece in a cool kiln and heat to striking temperature again and hold while working on other pieces. You can try a saw tooth program as well, have the kiln hold at striking temp for a while, drop to 900 and re-heat to striking a few times. Repeat as needed. (I'm not sure if you even need to drop to 900, someone correct my numbers if I'm wrong)

One other thing - when you're working on oxycons, you should remember that any flame you have is probably a little bit more reducing than it looks (as compared to tanked). Try to keep your striking pieces limited to the amount of glass you can get and keep almost white hot (but not runny) in a neutral to oxidizing flame. On my 'cuda setup, that's about a 2" round gather, maybe a bit more if I'm patient and willing to spend the time needed to heat it through and keep it there.
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