[emoon]

I boosted most of this online and compiled it for all of us. It may be listed elsewhere, but I thought I'd share...

Precision 104 Technical Tips*


Kandinsky

REDUCE THE HECK OUT OF IT! Trick: The copper color burns off easily, so you need to reduce and pull out of the flame. You can wave it around to keep it hot, but don't burn it all off. Keep it out of the flame. Encase. Reacts well with copper green, intense black and ivory.

Picasso Silver Blue

Likes a lot of reduction heat but don't overdo it.....Just roll it around in the flame until the haze appears. Let it cool a bit, and then go back to a neutral flame. Reduce multiple times and tease the colors out at the back of the flame several times. The more times you do this, the better the color.

Da Vinci Double Amber Purple

Work it VERY HOT until it is transparent on the surface. Then cool and watch it begin to turn dark orange or brown. Depending on if and when you encase it, you will get different colors. If you encase it soon after it begins to darken, you will get blues and greens. If you let the dark brown really develop before you encase, you will get more blues and magentas. Depending on how you treat it after you encase, or not, you may get pinks, rose, lavenders, and creams. But you have to get it pretty hot to begin with . Use in a very neutral flame.

Rembrandt

Work this color in a neutral to oxidizing flame. After final shaping and details are complete, reduce in a soft fluffy flame. This will bring out lots of metallic and lustrous colors. Don't over reduce unless that is the color you are looking for. This is ABE Fleishman's (The creator of ALL Precicion 104 colors) favorite color because of the wild colors you can achieve.

Da Vinci Transparent

Use a neutral oxidizing flame when you are ready for final color development. Reduce multiple times at the back of the flame. The more frequently you do this, the better the color. Want to bring the silver to the surface? Use a more reducing flame.

Black Pearl

A light reduction is all that is needed to get the amazing colors to pop. Turn down your oxygen slightly until you have a small, bushy flame. Pass in and out of the flame until your achieve the desired results. Cool a bit then continue in a neutral flame.


Rocio Silver Mist

Use a neutral oxidizing flame when you are ready for final color development. Reduce multiple time and tease the colors out at the back of the flame, several times. The more times you do this, the better the color.

Shasha's Silver

Work in a neutral to oxidizing flame. This color is really easy to get results from. Heat hot and after shaping, reduce in an out of the flame to get the desired color effect. This color will produce heavy metallic and lustrous tones.

Van Gogh

Work VERY HOT until it is transparent on the surface. Then cool and watch it begin to turn dark orange or brown. Depending on if and when you encase it, you will get different colors. If you encase it soon after it begins to darken, you will get blues and greens. If you let the dark brown really develop before you encase, you will get more blues and magentas. Depending on how you treat it after you encase, or not, you may get pinks, rose, lavenders, and creams. But you have to get it pretty hot to begin with . Use in a very neutral flame.

Matisse Red Exotic

REDUCE THE HECK OUT OF IT! Trick: The copper color burns off easily, so you need to reduce and pull out of the flame. You can wave it around to keep it hot, but don't burn it all off. Keep it out of the flame. Encase. Reacts well with copper green, intense black and ivory.

Garzoni Giovanna

Use a neutral flame when first melting. When you are ready for final color development, reduce multiple times and tease the colors out at the back of the flame. The more frequently you repeat this, the better the color. Use a little heavier reduction flame to bring the silver to the surface.



*(credit to Flame Kissed Glass for the tech tips)