View Single Post
  #9  
Old 2015-11-24, 8:41pm
menty666's Avatar
menty666 menty666 is offline
Borovangelist
 
Join Date: Jan 26, 2007
Location: Auburn, MA
Posts: 3,002
Default

You can do the pin hole with a tungsten pick, but you run two risks:

1) Accidentally leaving ugly tungsten fume on your ornament (sometimes it can be burned off, but it's tough to do if you've blown the wall thin
2) Accidentally deforming the wall, and now that you have a hole, it's tougher to try to fix.

Another option is to neck down the bottom handle, impart stress with diamond shears and knock it off, leaving a small hole.

The way I do them? I lay a layer of soot on them and let them bench cool in my point rack. Once cool, I give them a wipe to clean them off, heat an area of the handle to try to draw it more consistently straight. Then I neck down the handle a couple of inches from the ornament, and knock off the remainder, then gently heat and loop it over with my tweezers. That way they're still technically open as long as I don't put a crimp in the loop.

I did used to seal them, but after having one implode in the kiln, I stopped doing that. I was lucky the door was closed at the time.

If you want to try it the way the hot shop folks do it...

They'll make the ornament, then put stress into the hollow handle close to the ornament. Knock this off into a coffee can full of fiber frax.

Get a hot dollop of glass and use it to seal over the hole, quickly pulling a loop from this solid mass.

The only headache, soft glass has a better working time, so this has never worked well for me with boro.
__________________
-Tom

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
|
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
|
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote