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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

View Poll Results: Which 104 Ivory Do You Like Best?
Moretti Light Ivory 48 15.48%
Moretti Dark Ivory 192 61.94%
Vetrofond Light Ivory 26 8.39%
Vetrofond Dark Ivory 61 19.68%
Other (Explain Below) 11 3.55%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 310. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 2007-10-12, 7:42pm
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Default Which 104 Ivory?

Which one do you use the most or like the best? Why?
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  #2  
Old 2007-10-12, 8:01pm
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I love Vetrofond Dark Ivory... not sure why, I just like it best.
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  #3  
Old 2007-10-12, 8:01pm
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I have only used vetro once. i love the moretti dark ivory for the reactions.
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  #4  
Old 2007-10-12, 8:02pm
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I don't know if I've ever even used any of the light Ivory. But the dark Vetrofond has more reaction with silver for me so it's my favorite. I like Effetre too and I use both but when I want more organic reaction I go for the Vetrofond.
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  #5  
Old 2007-10-12, 8:09pm
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Cool, keep 'em coming - I've typically used Moretti, both, but dark for funkier silver reactions, but I picked up Vetro tonight and started playing, it got me wondering.
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  #6  
Old 2007-10-12, 8:14pm
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I like the Vetro Dark; it appears to me that it likes silver foil better...but the Moretti light works better with the silver colors FOR ME. The dark is too reactive with the silver glass if you make smallish beads.
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  #7  
Old 2007-10-12, 8:15pm
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I like both of the dark ivories and it depends what I am making as to which I prefer. I find the Vetrofond does more "carmelizing" in the heat which is pretty cool. I like them both and have both in stock
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  #8  
Old 2007-10-12, 8:35pm
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I tested the Effetre, Vetrofond, and Gaffer Ivories in otherwise identical frit blends on a black base. I liked the reactions I got with the Effetre Dark Ivory the best - of course, I was looking for reactions. The Gaffer reacted the least.
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  #9  
Old 2007-10-12, 8:50pm
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Vetrofound light ivory. I like this as a base for most of my Silvered glass organic beads, Less creep and nice reaction with silver.

For silvered ivory stringer, Effetre Dark Ivory.
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  #10  
Old 2007-10-12, 8:57pm
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I haven't noticed as much difference between the lights, but there is definately a difference between the darks. My absolute fav is Vetro dark because it reacts more and if you superheat it, a beautiful carmel rises to the surface. Plus I love the "feel" of the vetro rods compared to Moretti--silly, I know. I keep both on hand.
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  #11  
Old 2007-10-12, 10:24pm
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I want the old, old Moretti dark ivory back. It reacted a lot like River Rock.
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  #12  
Old 2007-10-12, 10:24pm
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I love the crackled amber surface you can get when you cook the dickens out of the Vetro dark ivory. For silver reactions, I use either Effetre or Vetro. When I'm not wanting a lot of reaction lines or not using silver, I like the Effetre or Vetro light ivories. I guess it just depends on where I think I'm going with the bead. Half the time, the bead decides where it will allow me to take it, though.
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  #13  
Old 2007-10-13, 1:15am
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I've been using the Vetro for a while now. It's what I buy, both light and dark.

I like the light to use with the silver glasses and raku. If you use the raku with the dark it can almost become completely black and you don't see the raku at all.

I love the River Rock which is just a version of the dark ivory. I wish they would figure out how they made it.
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  #14  
Old 2007-10-13, 5:12am
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Moretti dark ivory for the reactions with silver. I love using silvered ivory stringer!

I liked that really light lot of Vetrofond ivory that was out a few years ago. I think it was an odd lot. Does anyone know if that stuff is still around?? I would love to buy some!
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  #15  
Old 2007-10-13, 5:34am
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I like Moretti for etching and use with copper green generally and Vetrofond for organics and silver- I like the crackle better with silver and organics- but I like the smoother palette on the non-organics

I use the lights pretty interchangeably- enough that just for fun I have them all in the same cubby
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  #16  
Old 2007-10-13, 1:54pm
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Lisi, I love that light ivory also. It was called Dirty white? My husband one a bunch of that in a bead contest at Frantz. I still have some which I'm hoarding.

ETA: I found someone selling it. http://www.nlmglassarts.com/vetro.php
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  #17  
Old 2007-10-13, 2:30pm
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I was looking for a light ivory that didn't get smutty when used with reduction glass (the 94/96 COE stuff, Kugler or Reichenbach) and ended up with Vetro light ivory as the least reactive. If you give it enough heat it will get smutty, but it's less likely to do so than the other 104 ivories.

(I'm not talking about Dirty White, by the way -- just regular Vetro Light ivory. I think Dirty White is being sold under another name but I can't remember what it is. It has more of a chalk color and less of a cream color than the light ivory. It might be being called very pale ivory or something like that now. They should have left it as Dirty White.)

Other than that, I use Effetre dark ivory, but I agree that some batches are better than others.
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  #18  
Old 2007-10-13, 4:25pm
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Can't vote. No fav. Love them ALL! lol!

Honestly, they are different enough that there are applications for each.
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  #19  
Old 2007-10-13, 4:44pm
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The Dirty White is just barely off white. If you didn't put them together you wouldn't know. The rods are a little bummpy, not smooth. It does react with the silver glass, but not as much as light ivory.

I'll look for a picture.

Ok, this is dirty white
[IMG][/IMG]

This is light ivory

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  #20  
Old 2007-10-13, 6:06pm
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I have a very old Ivory labeled 264 that is so light you can barely tell it isn't white.
I have no idea what it is or what it does, it is just hanging out keeping the rest of my glass company for right now.

Kevan could this be Dirty white? Was it ever labeled Ivory at any time that you know of?
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  #21  
Old 2007-10-13, 6:09pm
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Vetrofond Dark Ivory

1) The crackling effect does not come off as much during etching like it does with the Moretti varieties
2) I get interesting color reactions with silver on Vetrofond, moreso than Moretti
3) The Vetrofond is a little stiffer so easier to manipulate into shapes without losing control of the glass
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  #22  
Old 2007-10-13, 6:23pm
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I got some Vetro Pale Ivory from Frantz in March 2006. It's labeled 791919. It's almost white and goes clear when you melt it, but it has a slightly rough surface and reacts a little with raku. I'll have to try it with the silver glasses.
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  #23  
Old 2007-10-13, 6:33pm
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Shawn, I don't know, it wasn't labeled.

Maybe it's not Dirty white? Now I'm not sure. It's like what Judi described. I think we got it in 2005 if not 2004.
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Old 2007-10-13, 7:01pm
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Thanks Kevan I just might have to make a bead with it and test it to see what it does and if it is reactive.

I did find an answer to what my 911 was, it isn't anise white although it looks a lot like it. I knew it's reactions were different. 911 is called Silk/Opal White and a beautiful color, it isn't rough like anise white is.

Sorry Nikki not trying to hijack your thread. I love ALL the Ivory colors equally but for much different reasons. Each one of them has their own purpose in my glass art and they each have their own tube which try and keep a full stock of. I can't imagine living without any of the Ivory colors Vetrofond, Moretti, light or dark.
I could live without black and white for weeks before I could go without Ivory for one day!
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  #25  
Old 2007-10-13, 8:46pm
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Shawn - not a hijack, I'm reading everyone's answers, it's fascinating to me. I've had Vetro Light Ivory sitting there for a while and finally picked it up - and posted the poll while the beads were in the kiln and I was wondering. I'm loving everyone's answers, thanks!!

I use Moretti Dark for silvered ivory stringer most of the time, I love the translucent Vetro ivory too.... The Vetro Light Ivory I have is an old batch - pale, but not the dirty white pale.
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  #26  
Old 2007-10-14, 3:25am
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I like the vetrofond just for the fact that I can easily tell the difference between the colours. I have both effetre and vetro, and seem to be using the vetro more often.
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  #27  
Old 2007-10-14, 11:19am
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Oh **** I think all mine are mixed together
(actually, I think I've got a 1/4# of each dark & light ivory moretti/effetre that I ordered when I started that are labled--the rest is all from buying stuff from people who sent it unlabled, or from "shorts" & I really don't *know* what it is--brand/color/type....it's all just kind of lumped together as "I think it's ivory...maybe...." ....I sooooo need better glass storage than the picnic basket )
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Old 2007-10-14, 10:06pm
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OOOhhhhh....Thanks Kimberly!!!!
(actually I really do love to know what my glass is--I have rod of OLD glass I won't melt--it's got an
original sticky lable on it from the shipper--says "KIM BLUE" --I know it's an early batch & it amuses me to compare it
to the later batches of ink blue! I got that particular rod in a gift of glass I was given & I've treasured it!)
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  #29  
Old 2007-10-15, 3:45am
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Thanks for the tip Kimberly, I have read this thread w/ interest because I'm so new that I didn't know there was a difference. I just put all the light in one pipe, and the dark in another pipe. Well I guess I gotta go seperate all the ivories.
Bye!
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Old 2007-10-15, 4:10am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebekah View Post
I want the old, old Moretti dark ivory back. It reacted a lot like River Rock.
YES!! That was the first thing I thought of when I seen this poll.
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