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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #31  
Old 2012-12-05, 7:00am
Debbie Sims Debbie Sims is offline
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Default Bent mandrel

I cut my 1/32 mandrels into short lengths and use a pin vise. The vise gives me a better grip.
Hope this helps.
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  #32  
Old 2012-12-05, 8:28am
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Anne Londez Anne Londez is offline
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I've been thinking about it a little more and what about trying to use a double layer of release ? This way the hole on the beads will be larger, hopefully enough to get past bends.
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  #33  
Old 2013-01-03, 2:56pm
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Patty Lakinsmith Patty Lakinsmith is offline
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Just wanted to second what Sharon said about hammering bent mandrels. I use my steel bench block and my chasing hammer, lots of little taps all along the used/bent part of the mandrel while spinning it with the other hand. It really does work to both straighten and work harden them to counteract all of the annealing that happens through repeated heating. When this no longer works I'll cut mine down to remove the bent part. I am sometimes reminded of how cheap, er, frugal I am when trying to make a bead on a 6" long mandrel, lol, and then finally coming to my senses and throwing it away (or cutting up to use in bead displays).

I also use the vise method (my husband's big wood shop vise) for really stuck beads - it helps a lot to not have to grip so hard with one hand and twist with the other.
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  #34  
Old 2013-01-04, 2:45am
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I bend them back as much as possible, then use the other end. When both are bent beyond repair, I snip them off with a wire cutter and redo until they get too short.

Just my method...
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  #35  
Old 2013-01-04, 12:12pm
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I have this problem too with 1/16. So much so I just consider them disposable as mandrels. I ususally cut them up and use them to apply CZ's. I have strong hands and also almost any pressed bead I make trashes a mandrel this small. I use 3/32 most of the time now and use 1/16 for quick easy things like spacers. I also started buying my own tig rod and cutting it down so it doesn't cost so much if I destroy them.
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  #36  
Old 2013-01-04, 1:35pm
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Lisi Lisi is offline
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Oh man...I wish I had a video camera. I could do a full tutorial on mandrel care. Everything from cut and grind your own, pre- dip inspection, dipping, removal of the beads, etc.

I rarely bend mine, and the 1/16" are what I have always used for the last ten years. It would be easier for me to demonstrate my way of handling mandrels rather than describe it. I'll keep this in mind! Right now Staples has a coupon for a free video camera with a $100 purchase. It's almost time for me to order more packaging and office supplies.
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  #37  
Old 2013-01-04, 2:05pm
Dani Dani is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lisi View Post
Oh man...I wish I had a video camera. I could do a full tutorial on mandrel care. Everything from cut and grind your own, pre- dip inspection, dipping, removal of the beads, etc.

I rarely bend mine, and the 1/16" are what I have always used for the last ten years. It would be easier for me to demonstrate my way of handling mandrels rather than describe it. I'll keep this in mind! Right now Staples has a coupon for a free video camera with a $100 purchase. It's almost time for me to order more packaging and office supplies.
I just got a brand new video camera to video my foster kittens, a nice high end one so I could post videos on youtube, we need more web traffic to get them adopted.

Where do you live? I'll come be your videographer!

I am an expert mandrel mangler, I bend them almost every time I use them.

I use two steel plates 5" x 8" about 1/2" thick, roll them like some do with wood, I can do several at one time.
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  #38  
Old 2013-01-04, 5:12pm
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essiemessy essiemessy is offline
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I've found that just halving the 'standard' length has helped minimise this problem greatly.
It's amazing just how short you can work a mandrel. The only thing I'd be concerned about, however, is what kind of kiln you use - short mandrels may be problematic.
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  #39  
Old 2013-01-04, 9:20pm
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I use 1/16 a lot. I just use a pair of hand pliers in my right hand and a piece of rubbery kitchen stuff to grasp the bead. If it doesn't twist off easily then I soak it. I used to bend most of my mandrels before I figured this out. OH-put the pliers about an inch away from the bead. Changes the leverage or something.
The rubbery stuff is the plastic grid that you can use under a cutting board to keep it from slipping.
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  #40  
Old 2013-01-05, 3:07pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dani View Post
I just got a brand new video camera to video my foster kittens, a nice high end one so I could post videos on youtube, we need more web traffic to get them adopted.

Where do you live? I'll come be your videographer!

I am an expert mandrel mangler, I bend them almost every time I use them.

I use two steel plates 5" x 8" about 1/2" thick, roll them like some do with wood, I can do several at one time.
I live way down here in Florida, just a little north of the FL Keys.

I think another important way to keep from bending the 1/16" mandrels is what bead release you use. Some of them out there hold well and don't flake and that's nice, but the beads can be hard to get off. I think the best bead releases for getting the beads off easily are KRAG Mudd, Fosterfire Smooth n Tuff, and Fusion. KRAG Mudd is the easiest. Oh, and Alice's is wonderful, but to me, the texture is way too grainy.


Quote:
Originally Posted by essiemessy View Post
I've found that just halving the 'standard' length has helped minimise this problem greatly.
It's amazing just how short you can work a mandrel. The only thing I'd be concerned about, however, is what kind of kiln you use - short mandrels may be problematic.
You can handle short mandrels if you use a tool like this. The looped hemostats have a more stable grip than the pointed hemostats. I found the 7 inch pair on ebay. They also come in a 9 inch length. My kiln is deep (12 inches) and I barely feel the heat when I place a bead inside.



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Last edited by Lisi; 2013-01-05 at 3:15pm.
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  #41  
Old 2013-01-05, 4:09pm
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Yeah, I just use a leather glove to pop 'em in. But I should get myself a pair of those, just for off-mandrel pieces anyway.
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  #42  
Old 2013-01-05, 6:19pm
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I find I'm bending fewer mandrels when I changed bead release. I'm using a mix of about 8 parts Alice's to 2 parts Sludge Plus. Letting it sit for a day or 2 seems to reduce the graininess, and I can actually slide the beads off by hand if I wanted to (I have Carpal Tunnel Syndrome in my right hand, and even after surgery I have limited strength)! Don't need to soak either.

Alli
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  #43  
Old 2013-01-07, 4:47pm
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The first person I ever saw make a bead was at an SCA Renaissance Fair. 1980's. She had a mapp torch between her velvet-robed knees, lol, and wrapped chips of stained glass onto copper wire or thin tubing. Then she cut the beads off (once cooled, and no she did not anneal) and put them into an acid solution which ate away the copper. You might consider making the beads onto a thick wire and dealing with them this way, but then there is the acid to consider. Every solution comes with it's own set of problems?
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