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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2014-08-08, 3:47pm
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Default Clio Help

Ok, so I just started playing with Clio, I only have a few rods so I don't have a lot to go through a bunch of experiments with and I need help. So I read up on some threads and this is what I tried: I laid down clear, then transparent orange, then clear, the Clio, then clear.
I can't even tell I used Clio? It just stayed orange and I can't see any of my Clio designs.

Does anyone know the tricks on getting this glass to get that really pretty bright pink?

Thanks in advance
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  #2  
Old 2014-08-08, 3:59pm
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Clio, (sometimes I'll add silver foil and burn it off) light reduction, encase in super clear. Very gently melt in.
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  #3  
Old 2014-08-08, 6:20pm
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Jodi, you don't need the first layer of clear - can just lay down the transparent orange as the first layer.

Did you reduce the Clio before encasing it? How hot did you work when you melt down the encasement? Working too hot after the clear encasing can erase all your reduction effects.

Also, striking Clio first before reducing will give you a wider range of, as well as darker and richer, colors.
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Old 2014-08-08, 7:04pm
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The striking part is what I always forget. Thanks!
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  #5  
Old 2014-08-10, 10:13am
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I never use trans orange EVER. You can get great colors by just putting down white, clio, reduce and encase. I am not a big fan of the orange trans, I think it looks weird. JMHO.
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Old 2014-08-10, 1:17pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Libby L. View Post
I never use trans orange EVER. You can get great colors by just putting down white, clio, reduce and encase. I am not a big fan of the orange trans, I think it looks weird. JMHO.
I agree. I just use solid Clio and encase. If you need orange to get a pink bead then you aren't doing it right. If you just prefer the look of the orange underneath and can get pink without it...just ignore me.

The trick is to heat the snot out of it until it's practically dripping off the mandrel. Cook it good. Then cool, strike, cool, reduce a bit and encase (don't use Aether). Those same tips work with Kalypso too.
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Old 2014-08-10, 1:20pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Libby L. View Post
I never use trans orange EVER. You can get great colors by just putting down white, clio, reduce and encase. I am not a big fan of the orange trans, I think it looks weird. JMHO.
I respectfully disagree, Libby. Granted you can get beautiful colors encasing Clio, Kalypso, etc. on their own (you don't even need the white core) but in order to get the hot hot pinks and magentas, the transparent warm hues with a clear coat yield some stunning results.

Here is an example - the middle bead has a transparent orange core while the rest are just straight encased silver glass:



Here are some more with the transparent orange layered. I don't think they look weird...

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Old 2014-08-10, 1:22pm
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I get that color without orange Hayley.
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Old 2014-08-10, 1:41pm
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Haley, for the bead with the spiral flower on it: do you make striking orange dots first then add clio over them? do you melt in all the way? do you strike the orange before you add the clio?
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Old 2014-08-10, 1:52pm
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Originally Posted by AKDesigns View Post
I get that color without orange Hayley.
You get a variety of pinks and magnetas depending on the orange, red, or pink base you use...which gives you many, many more color possibilities. My Bedazzled ebook is all about what colors you can get with which base. That's why the layering technique is so amazing. And you are not limited to just oranges and pinks! The fact that Clio is translucent, the possibilities are limitless!

ETA: By the way, if you layer Clio over a cool base, you do not need the clear coat.
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Last edited by Hayley; 2014-08-10 at 2:04pm.
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  #11  
Old 2014-08-10, 1:56pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mina View Post
Haley, for the bead with the spiral flower on it: do you make striking orange dots first then add clio over them? do you melt in all the way? do you strike the orange before you add the clio?
I used a transparent orange (may not be Effetre striking orange tho), then clear, then Clio, strike, reduce, clear, and melt down slowly. I melted each layer down to almost flat before adding the next layer. Hope this helps. There is no need to strike the orange purposefully.
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Old 2014-08-10, 2:07pm
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Another note: you may be able to retain the darker pinks without the orange core on smaller beads but when your beads get to be as large as mine - the bottom one above is 1-1/2" from hole to hole - the layering techniques really helps! Again it's a different look too...
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  #13  
Old 2014-08-10, 2:21pm
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They are beautiful Hayley! I just prefer to not use the trans orange. I get some pretty cool colors too with just white I think the deal is what ever floats your boat and however you get your Clio to work for you is perfect.
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  #14  
Old 2014-08-10, 2:55pm
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Oh my gosh thank you all soooo much!

I really got some good tips here to try my next time with Clio. I guess I have problems striking and reducing, is my best guess. I got to get the hang of that a bit better.

I sure do appreciate every single thing that was mentioned!
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Old 2014-08-10, 3:26pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Libby L. View Post
They are beautiful Hayley! I just prefer to not use the trans orange. I get some pretty cool colors too with just white I think the deal is what ever floats your boat and however you get your Clio to work for you is perfect.
I agree wholeheartedly, Libby! I have used Clio as well as all the striking and reducing colors on their own, over white, over all different bases with or without the clear coat... To get a great variety of effects. It comes down to what it is that you want and like!
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