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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2007-01-02, 6:31pm
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Default New to Bullseye - Dos and Don'ts?

Hubby bought me the studio stocker pack for Christmas and I think I am in love with this glass. So far I've only done some plain beads and some sculptural stuff.

Does anyone have any suggestions of colors I should play with first? Are there other glass or frit lines that are compatible? Any cool tips or things I should try? Tips on what to avoid?
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  #2  
Old 2007-01-02, 6:35pm
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If you like ivory, I would suggest buying some of the BE odd lot Nougat to play with. It's very nice. The leaded furnace frits like val cox's and others can be used in small amounts just like on 104 coe.

Congrats - that studio pack rocks!
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  #3  
Old 2007-01-02, 6:47pm
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Oh! I forgot to mention that I bought some odd lots from Bridgetown Glass. I think I cleaned Kalera out of Nougat.

Is Nougat reactive then?

Also, what is up with only one opaque red and one transparent red in the regular production line? And, like 10 pinks.... Heh. Good thing I'm a pink fan. One of the colors I have already played with in the Streaky Clear and Pink. Simply divine!
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  #4  
Old 2007-01-02, 6:54pm
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yup - nougat is the most reactive one

Yeah, the reds are pretty limited, but they have had red odd lots occasionally.
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  #5  
Old 2007-01-03, 6:36am
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BE makes all their rod colors in frits. Different sizes. And you can use the powdered frit like enamel. They've got all of these at Howaco (for a good price). Also, keep in mind the BE luster glass. It's great!

You also may want to raise your garaging and annealing temp a little. It likes to be slightly hotter. Have fun!
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  #6  
Old 2007-01-03, 6:46am
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get yourself some Schott clear. It is the clearest clear I have ever used. The clear that comes with your starter pack is pretty scummy.
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  #7  
Old 2007-01-03, 6:46am
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nougat is AWESOME! highly reactive with silver
so is the antique white
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  #8  
Old 2007-01-03, 9:02am
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LOVE antique white. I hope it becomes a production color. The Schott is also better for using as a clear base because it is stiffer, and holds its shape well. You can get that one from Howaco, as well.
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  #9  
Old 2007-01-03, 8:01pm
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Try encasing with any of the tints. They make awsome beads. Just make sure it's a bullseye center. I have also used silver or gold foils their dicro sticks and encased with a tint color. All these work really well.
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  #10  
Old 2007-01-04, 9:59am
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Thanks for the tips!

So far I've noticed that Bullseye seem to like an oxygen rich flame, otherwise the glass gets scummy.

I'm starting to wonder if my torch just isn't hot enough. It's obviously quite a bit stiffer than 104coe glasses. I don't think I expected it to take quite this long to melt.

Oh, the other thing I've noticed is that it doesn't seem as prone to thermal shock in the rod which is very nice.
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  #11  
Old 2007-01-04, 10:09am
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Hm - I haven't had any scumming on the glass. What kind of set-up are you using? It is quite a bit stiffer than 104
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  #12  
Old 2007-01-04, 12:15pm
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I tend to run a more propane rich flame usually, so maybe it's just me.

I have a GTT bobcat on an oxygen concentrator.
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  #13  
Old 2007-01-04, 12:20pm
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I am on a minor with 2 oxycons - just added the second one about a week ago. Not sure how that compares to the bobcat. I do think I probably tend to run a little on the oxy side though.
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  #14  
Old 2007-01-04, 12:35pm
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How do you like it with the two oxy cons Squidly?
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  #15  
Old 2007-01-04, 12:44pm
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well, for now I am keeping them set kinda low to try to get used to the increase in temperature gradually. I used the BE superman yesterday and burnt the poop out of it in the full on flame I use for most colors and had to back down the flame a little.

I have them set between 2-1/2 and 3 lpm each for soft glass and that flame is HOT, HOT, HOT. I can work much faster than I used to. Encasing is all of a sudden a breeze too (compared to before), especially since I have started using the 8 mm clear from BE.

I turn them up to around 4 each when I do boro and it melts quite nicely.
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  #16  
Old 2007-01-04, 1:42pm
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how is the 8mm clear? Is it scummy like the regular clear?
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  #17  
Old 2007-01-04, 1:55pm
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I don't find it scummy at all - perhaps not quite as clear as Schott, but very nice. I ordered 3 more lbs today - I can send you a rod to try
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  #18  
Old 2007-01-05, 12:27pm
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Arrow springs is having a sale on BE glass (all of Jan, it looks like) at the deepest discount if you buy a tool (any tool). that looked like a pretty good deal, I was thinking about getting some. Is BE a lot stiffer than 104? Does anybody do really nice frit blends like they do with the Uros? Why are all the great blends in Uros?
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  #19  
Old 2007-01-05, 12:50pm
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The 96 coe frits are usually made from furnace glasses that have lead in them. The lead makes them able to "adapt" to other COE's in small amounts. you can use the frits like val cox's and others with both 104 and BE at about a 5% level. I haven't had problems with but one particular color and one blend using them with my BE.
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  #20  
Old 2007-01-05, 1:13pm
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Scouncil-
I seem to have more luck with compatibility with the BE and the 96 frits.
I can really layer them on and not have problems.

It is a bit stiffer than 104 but not much. except the schott. It is pretty stiff but gorgeous clear!

I would try making your own frit mixes for BE if you want full compatibility. The frit isnt too expensive and you can play all day with it! There is a frit exchange in the patio and if you send me a note with your exchange, I can make sure you get a nice assortment of BE frit.
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  #21  
Old 2007-11-27, 10:02pm
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I have to buy direct from Schott in Australia. They can tell me that I am buying soda lime glass clear rods but not what COE. Does Schott only make 90 COE clear in soft glass?

Does anyone know?

Thanks
Jenn
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  #22  
Old 2007-11-28, 5:22am
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Play with the tints! They are so easy to get crystal clear and bubble free!
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  #23  
Old 2007-11-28, 11:07am
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I don't have much of anything that hasn't been mentioned yet but you are going to LOVE this glass. Try some of the odd lots too!!
Paula
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  #24  
Old 2007-11-28, 12:20pm
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I haven't used anything but BE, but from what has been said, it's opposite of the Morretti/etc. glass in that the opaques are stiffer than the transparents.

The steel blue will devit/scum to a non-super-shiny gray/silver if you reduce it enough and anneal it properly. The directions how to get that effect are on the BE website -- I think under torch tips, but not sure.

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