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Jelveh Designs - Glass Beads Torched One-by-One

Beads of Courage


 
  #1  
Old 2008-10-13, 7:53am
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Default Torch Comparisons on 5 LPM Oxygen Concentrator

I have posted this elsewhere, but thought it would be helpful here, too...

Many people who are going to a fuel/oxygen set-up are opting to use oxygen concentrators instead of tanked oxygen. My husband and I ran several torches on a 5 LPM Invacare - a pretty common concentrator with a moderate psi output of 5 psi - to see how they performed. We set the torch to the largest neutral flame (before distortion) that we could and measured the length of the candles, the width of the flame, and the overall length of the flame. We then tried to dial in the smallest pin point flame and commented on that.

We had them running off of a Y connector, so we could test one torch right after the other more quickly and so that we could also test two torches running on the single concentrator.

Here is what we found:



Flame Measurements of Torches Running on 5 LPM, 5 psi concentrator (Invacare)

Nortel Minor
candle length: 0.330”
shoulder width: 0.850-0.860”
flame length: 11”
small pinpoint flame: fairly small flame

Nortel Mega Minor
candle length: 0.350”
shoulder width: 0.850”
flame length: 10”
small pinpoint flame: carrot shaped, not enough thrust to get a sharp hot needle

Carlisle Mini CC
candle length: 0.25”
shoulder width: 0.925”
flame length: 9”
small pinpoint flame: carrot shaped, no thrust

GTT Cricket
candle length: 0.500”
shoulder width: 0.750”
flame length: 13”
small pinpoint flame: hot needle flame can get very tight

straight off concentrator, not through Y connector:

candle length: 0.550”
shoulder width: 0.850-0.880”
flame length: 13”
small pinpoint flame: hot needle flame can get very tight

Knight Bullet centerfire (same as Knight Little Dragon 7 jet)
candle length: 0.250”
shoulder width: 0.700”
flame length: 11”
small pinpoint flame: small carrot shape

Bethlehem Barracuda centerfire (same as Beth Bead Burner/Pirhana/Betta)
candle length: 0.330”
shoulder width: 0.780”
flame length: 12”
small pinpoint flame: good needle flame

Bethlehem Minnow
candle length: 0.25”
shoulder width: 0.600”
flame length: 10”
small pinpoint flame: carrot shaped, no thrust

Wale Firebird
candle length: 0.280”
shoulder width: 0.960”
flame length: 11”
small pinpoint flame: cannot get pinpoint flame, wide carrot shape that fades to nothing when you get low, 2.5” – 4” before carrot comes to point



Multiple Torches on Single 5 LPM Concentrator

Two GTT Crickets
candle length: 0.250” each torch
shoulder width: 0.400” each torch
flame length: 8” each torch
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  #2  
Old 2008-10-13, 8:12am
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this might be dumb question but i honestly don't know...

What do these stats actually mean in terms of working the glass? and how do i use them to determine what kind of torch/concentrator i want?
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  #3  
Old 2008-10-13, 8:20am
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Candle lengths determine a lot. The longer your candles, the bigger/hotter your flame and the more adjustability you should have. 3/8" candles are pretty standard for working soft glass, although some people like working with a smaller flame, and 3/8" or longer for boro. You really should not run candles shorter than 1/4" on most torches (3/8" on a Mini CC) or you can overheat the torch.
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Old 2008-10-22, 1:08pm
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Hi,

I'm a newbie and have a Nortel Minor along with a oxy concentrator (5 psi). From your research, would that work or am I setting myself up for a fall? Is there anything that I should do in particular to get the most out of my torch and concentrator?

Thanks,
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  #5  
Old 2008-10-22, 1:41pm
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It all depends on what you want to do with it.

I think that the Minor on a 5 LPM concentrator is great for making soft glass beads. It isn't the hottest combination, but it works just fine for lots of people. If you want to work boro, you can work small boro on that set-up. Pipyr has a tutorial on working small boro on a 5 LPM concentrator. I think she used a Minor for that tutorial.

If you want to work larger or hotter (soft glass or boro), you can always add a second concentrator to your set-up on down the road. Just make sure that it matches the pressure output of the one you have for best results.

To get the most out of what you have now, the first thing to do is make sure that your concentrator and torch are in good working order. Make sure that the torch is cleaned and has no carbon build-up that could block any of the ports. Also, filter maintenance on your concentrator is important to keep it putting out good flow and purity. Flow and purity are more important for a hot flame than pressure is with a Minor.
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  #6  
Old 2008-10-27, 4:06pm
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Very helpful information. Thank you.

I have a Mega Minor, my first dual fuel. And I wasn't sure what size my flame should even be. I was using a hothead, that that flame seems like the size of the titanic now!!
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Old 2008-12-16, 8:43am
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I'm digging up this old thread to ask if I can power two Crickets on one Devilbiss MC4490 concentrators (5LPM, 8psi concentrator)? If so then I am good to go with my four Crickets and I can switch my big torch to liquid Oxy.
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Last edited by ginkgoglass; 2008-12-16 at 9:19am.
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  #8  
Old 2008-12-16, 11:07am
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When I tested, I could make very small soft glass beads when I had two Crickets hooked up to a single 5 LPM machine. I preferred having the bigger flame that 5 LPM provided. Whether you would be happy with that is entirely up to you. You could hook up one Cricket to one DeVilbiss and dial it to 2.5 LPM and see what kind of flame you get and see whether or not you like it.
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Old 2008-12-18, 9:07am
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Ok Thanks Kimberly. Looks like I would be better off running each cricket on its own concentrator.
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  #10  
Old 2011-01-14, 3:01pm
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This is so useful. Thank you for the research and info.
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  #11  
Old 2011-07-12, 7:27pm
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bump, it's great info
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