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The Dark Room -- Photo Editing and Picture Taking. Advice, tutorials, questions on all things photoshop, photo editing, and taking pictures of beads or glass.

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  #31  
Old 2008-10-14, 2:46pm
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Originally Posted by redsunset View Post
I shamed myslef to go and set up a similar situation, in my photocube, notwithstanding glare, to figure out the manual settings.

Thanks for the comment, parisgal, on wanting to have the lights "go through the translucent walls of the box. That's a good visual.

So, if the inside of my lightbox is reading 1/800 and the camera is set on F4 and 400ISO, that's probably way too fast? I'm not sure what it has been in the past but without the information on, on the camera, I had no idea it was so bright. So, I'm needing to go more on the minus side?

Thanks Scott, I'll do the experiment you suggested and check out the tutorial.

I'm sorry I jumped in on this squid. I hope I didn't distract you from getting the answer to your problem. Thank you all for that great input.
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  #32  
Old 2008-10-14, 2:56pm
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I'm using 18watt fluorescents and an Olympus C755 that does Macro and has a 10X optical zoom.
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  #33  
Old 2008-10-14, 3:09pm
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Originally Posted by redsunset View Post
So, if the inside of my lightbox is reading 1/800 and the camera is set on F4 and 400ISO, that's probably way too fast? I'm not sure what it has been in the past but without the information on, on the camera, I had no idea it was so bright. So, I'm needing to go more on the minus side?
Since you've got lots of light in the box:

The first thing I'd do is change your ISO to something lower. Like 100 probably. Lower ISO, less grain.

Then I'd choose an F stop of a higher number (more depth of field) like F8.

Then I'd play the shutter settings.

*But* if you just want to play with the exposure compensation -- since you want to get rid of glare, you would tend towards the minus side. Then you'll probably have to brighten up your images in your photo editing program. And I'd still set the ISO lower either way .
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  #34  
Old 2008-10-14, 3:25pm
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Redsunset, If your using a tripod thats to fast. Its better to use a smaller aperture. Ideally you should be in the middle of your lens openings. Example if you have a lens that ranges from F 2.8 ( wide open aperture ) to F 22 ( smallest opening ) the sweet spot for that lens would be in the middle say F 8. What I mean by sweet spot is the sharpest focus that the lens can product. So lowering the shutter speed will allow you to close down the aperture to find that spot. Also understand that you may need to trade off the sweet spot for depth of field or shutter speed. Thats ok because both of those also effect sharpness in the form of blurriness from motion or lack of depth of field.

Scott

P.S. Parisgal sneaked in. I agree. You should always set you ISO as low as you can. I also agree with the way she has prioritized.
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Last edited by Tanner Studios; 2008-10-14 at 3:32pm.
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  #35  
Old 2008-10-14, 3:48pm
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I am using the daylight (5500K) lights and a Nikon Coolpix 4300.

Hrm, that's super weird... you have basically the same setup I do. I'm afraid I'm of no use, that's a total mystery to me.
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  #36  
Old 2008-10-14, 4:03pm
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Hrm, that's super weird... you have basically the same setup I do. I'm afraid I'm of no use, that's a total mystery to me.
What settings do you use on your camera? BTW, I got those light bulbs after reading a post from you
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  #37  
Old 2008-10-14, 4:15pm
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I just checked out Kalera's photos. And if Squid and Kalera have the same set up then why the different out comes? Think about It. Check out Kalera's ebay photos. I'm sure you can figure out the mystery if you have been paying attention to this thread.

I'll come back with the answer in a bit if needed. But I think the lesson will sink in if you figure it out for yourself.
Scott
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Last edited by Tanner Studios; 2008-10-14 at 4:18pm.
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  #38  
Old 2008-10-14, 4:21pm
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I just wanted to say that I think this bead is freaking amazing!!!!!
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  #39  
Old 2008-10-14, 4:35pm
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I just wanted to say that I think this bead is freaking amazing!!!!!
Thank you - that is SOO nice of you to say! I do believe you just made my day
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  #40  
Old 2008-10-14, 4:39pm
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I just checked out Kalera's photos. And if Squid and Kalera have the same set up then why the different out comes? Think about It. Check out Kalera's ebay photos. I'm sure you can figure out the mystery if you have been paying attention to this thread.

I'll come back with the answer in a bit if needed. But I think the lesson will sink in if you figure it out for yourself.
Scott
I have always admired Kalera's photos so I didn't even have to go look to know what they looked like - is it the glass she uses under her beads?
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  #41  
Old 2008-10-14, 4:47pm
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Nope! But close. Continue that train of thought
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Last edited by Tanner Studios; 2008-10-14 at 4:51pm.
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  #42  
Old 2008-10-14, 4:58pm
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Well, she also has gradient under her beads - I do too, but I am using a lighter area.
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  #43  
Old 2008-10-14, 5:10pm
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Squid, The simple answer is she is not shooting on white ( shooting on white is much harder than people think ). Thus not confusing the cameras meter. Although you may be shooting on a gradient your shooting closer to the white part then the black part. When shooting in macro or close up the camera only sees a very tiny part of the back ground. That is very important to remember. The glass back ground also absorbs light. So Kalera is really shooting on a deeper grey then what one would think just by look at the set.

So play with the compensation setting and things will fall into place.
Scott
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Last edited by Tanner Studios; 2008-10-14 at 5:14pm.
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  #44  
Old 2008-10-14, 5:18pm
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Ah, ok. One more question for now . This is my actual original uncropped pic:



Does that change anything? Since it is actually a pic of a much larger area than just the bead?
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  #45  
Old 2008-10-14, 5:20pm
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What settings do you use on your camera? BTW, I got those light bulbs after reading a post from you
I use the default settings for macro mode... I do have an older model of Coolpix, but I really can't see that making that much difference.
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  #46  
Old 2008-10-14, 5:22pm
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Ah, ok. One more question for now . This is my actual original uncropped pic:



Does that change anything? Since it is actually a pic of a much larger area than just the bead?
Aha! Yes, that changes everything. See if you can the camera really close to the bead; that will make your difference!
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  #47  
Old 2008-10-14, 5:25pm
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I can zoom in, but if I physically move any closer, it won't focus - if I recall correctly. I will have to try.
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  #48  
Old 2008-10-14, 5:26pm
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OK - I am going to go try a couple a pics.
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  #49  
Old 2008-10-14, 5:26pm
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How your getting it. But shouldn't the lower part of the image be white? There is still so much white that the meter is still under compensating. That photo is one stop under exposed. It's a great example of how the meter gets confused. Now that there is more surface area for the meter to read it has come alot closer. In fact the silver is only a half stop off.

Give me a minute and I'll adjust it in photoshop with levels
Be right back
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  #50  
Old 2008-10-14, 5:26pm
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Thank you Scott - I can't tell you how much I appreciate your help.
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  #51  
Old 2008-10-14, 5:29pm
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I can zoom in, but if I physically move any closer, it won't focus - if I recall correctly. I will have to try.
If your camera is it full macro mode, you should be able to get within an inch of the lens, and in fact it won't focus properly if it's too far away.
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  #52  
Old 2008-10-14, 5:31pm
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Ok - let me try again
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  #53  
Old 2008-10-14, 5:32pm
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For example, this image is un-cropped:

That's how close my camera was to the beads. Can you describe the steps you go through to get to macro mode? There is another mode that brings a "flower" icon up that's not true macro mode, I'm wondering if it's possible that you're in that mode.
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  #54  
Old 2008-10-14, 5:35pm
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I am in "scene" on the wheel and there is a little flower beside the mode I use - it is called "close up" in the sub menu.
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  #55  
Old 2008-10-14, 5:39pm
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Ok Squid here is your photo with a little tweak with levels in photoshop. But Like I said the over all photo was about a full stop underexposed and the chain was about a half. This tweak is about one stop open. and the chain is now about one half over . I needed to push it a bit to get the bead to pop. Like I said some times you just have to find a trade off you can live with.

With that said if you wanted to spend the time retouching every detail with photoshop you could fix almost any thing But that is another chapter.


Try moving onto part of the darker part of the gradient and see what happens

Scott
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  #56  
Old 2008-10-14, 5:41pm
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That does look a lot better - I think I need new software, but I am going to take some more pics before I decide that for sure.
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  #57  
Old 2008-10-14, 5:49pm
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Squid, If your going to publish you need the right tools. However You may already have what you need. Check out your cameras soft ware or other soft ware you have for the Histogram i.e. Levels.
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  #58  
Old 2008-10-14, 6:04pm
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I am in "scene" on the wheel and there is a little flower beside the mode I use - it is called "close up" in the sub menu.
OK, I'm not familiar with your model, but with mine there is the "close up" mode, which causes one white flower to appear on the screen, and there is ALSO a "macro" mode, which causes two yellow flowers to appear. In order to get into "macro" mode, I have to push the "menu" button and select "macro" from the list of settings.
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  #59  
Old 2008-10-14, 6:07pm
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OK, I'm not familiar with your model, but with mine there is the "close up" mode, which causes one white flower to appear on the screen, and there is ALSO a "macro" mode, which causes two yellow flowers to appear. In order to get into "macro" mode, I have to push the "menu" button and select "macro" from the list of settings.
I don't have a separate macro mode, but I just took some more pics and was able to focus within about 2 inches of the lens. I will post a couple here in just a sec
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  #60  
Old 2008-10-14, 6:08pm
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I can't, however, control the ISO in the close-up mode. I could change Exp Compensation, but the ISO defaults to auto.

ETA - damnit, I just double checked the shooting data and the Exp Compensation doesn't stay changed either. grrr....
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