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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2011-02-16, 3:47pm
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Default My Questions

Our Questions is what my intention is...

Once EDP devitrifies can it be turned shiney, again?

I got some glass from someone and there are a few rods marked 226. But they are blue so I think they are mismarked and are 228. They turn silver, and even the end of a rod I was working with has a reddish streak. I beleive it is an effetre colour.

It's really cool but I'm a wonderin' if this is supposed to be happening and why it is and if I want the colour to stay blue what do I need to do? Is this what silvering is, I didn't think the effetre colours 'silvered'.

(Not a question but) I tried Helios today, on my hothead with my 1#mapp and ooohhhhhh what a pretty bead. I thought that was silvering, so please, with patience, help this newbie along. I haven't found classes or groups to join in my area so I'm flying solo and learning as much as I can.
Thank you
Namaste
Rowyn
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Last edited by 2tumblingdragonz; 2011-02-16 at 5:50pm. Reason: clarification
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  #2  
Old 2011-02-16, 4:43pm
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Sorry, I'm not answering your question, Rowyn. I'm just adding my own.
I'm glad I read your post first because I have the same question. I bought some Moretti Lapis Cobalt Pastel #246. It looses it's shine and turns a weird kind of gray. How do I get it to maintain it's shine? Am I working it too hot?
Another colour that is giving me grief is Moretti Dark Aqua Transparent #036. If I use the rod it turns a scummy brown but if I use thin stringer the colour stays. Again, am I working too hot or what's going on here?
Thanks for your help!!
Gaby
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  #3  
Old 2011-02-16, 4:52pm
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What's happening with both glasses is that they are reducing in the flame; if you are on Hot Heads you can probably resolve this by working farther out in the flame.

EDP can me un-devitrified by bringing it to an overall even red glow and then not bringing it back into the flame... just let it cool enough to stick it in the kiln and you're good.
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  #4  
Old 2011-02-16, 5:03pm
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Helios is a reducing glass. There is a lot of info on reducing versus striking glass in the patio room under SE7 thread. I have not used helios yet myself but I would recommend first using it sparingly as dots or stringer. Once you have applied the dots use a piece of tin foil to cover the holes on your hothead. The flame will get louder and "fluffier" this is a reducing flame. Roll your bead through the flame and you will see the gold metallic sheen come out. This usually happens really fast.

A Hothead tends to have a reducing flame anyway. I find that striking glasses do not work well. Another thing that causes your blue glasses to turn weird colors is that your tank could be really low on gas. If you can I use Mappro gas which I can find at homedepot. They have what they call fat boy cannisters that are a little bigger than the 1 lb cannisters. I seem to be always running out of gas because it takes me so long to make one bead. Hopefully as I get better I will get faster. EDP takes practice to work with.
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  #5  
Old 2011-02-16, 5:07pm
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Here is a thread on EDP with a link to a wet canvas thread as well both are worth reading

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...+dreamy+purple
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  #6  
Old 2011-02-16, 5:10pm
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Here is a link to Haleys silver glass exchange. There is lots of info espically in the first few pages. Also check out Haleys blog she has a really good info on how to strike and reduce.

oops almost forgot to add the link!

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=176141
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  #7  
Old 2011-02-16, 5:10pm
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Thanks for the great info. Gaby, I am so glad you posted a question. I don't mean for this to be only 'my' questions. I thought it'd be a good place for all our questions.

I took the Helios and just put it down near the mouth of the torch, it turned a wicked silver, I can't wait to play more.

thanks for the other info, I didn't see the fat boys at HD but I will definately look for those.
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  #8  
Old 2011-02-16, 5:10pm
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Right, try working in different areas of the flame to see if that helps with the glass turning weird red colors- I hate that!
One thing you can do if you are using a small tank of mapp or whatever with your hothead is to keep it in a bath of warm (not hot) water- this will keep your flame going higher longer. If you have 'Making Glass Beads' by Cindy Jenkins, this tip is in one of the hot tips boxes- gotta read those things!

A tank of bulk gas will also take care of a lot of these problems.

And as always, your safety is your concern.
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  #9  
Old 2011-02-16, 5:31pm
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Thanks for the quick responses! I use a hot head with a bulk tank and will try working further out. I think I unconsiously may be moving my hand closer to me as I work. Thus working hotter than I started out. I'm also sitting in front of a south facing window with the sun pouring in. I can't see the flame very well. My best torching days are cloudy and dark. Who would have thought I would ever wish for those days lol. I am having so much fun though. Thanks again for the help everyone and for letting me squeeze in on your question, Rowyn.
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  #10  
Old 2011-02-16, 5:52pm
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I should have called the thread Our Questions, 'cause that was my intention, not just for my personal questions.

With Helios and glasses like that, will it change the colour if I'm holding and annealing at 960? Should those glasses be annealed at the 930, 950 schedule????I just remembered reading that....
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  #11  
Old 2011-02-16, 9:31pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irjc View Post
I should have called the thread Our Questions, 'cause that was my intention, not just for my personal questions.

With Helios and glasses like that, will it change the colour if I'm holding and annealing at 960? Should those glasses be annealed at the 930, 950 schedule????I just remembered reading that....
I garage at 940 for all my beads, always have. If you are using silver glass colours I would reduce your kiln temp, unless you are wanting a kiln strike, then increase to 980.
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  #12  
Old 2011-02-17, 10:22am
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Will it hurt non sriking coulour to decrease and increase for a kiln strike?

If I work a reduction or striking colour in the flame and then put it in the kiln, if it's garaged at ___ and annealed at the same temp it will stay the same but if I do a kiln strike then all the flame work is for naught? or is it?
OI!!!

when the gas is low in the mapp pro container is it an oxidizing flame?

My helios bead stayed silver...now to try to get more colours....it was a tiny test bead but it's my first reduction (it's reduction not striking?)..like I said--OI!
OK, time to go light--oh yeah--I notice when I use the striker thing I got at HD the HH seems to spark like it gets dust from the flint. It doesn't do that when I use a match--is the flint dust supposed to happen or did I get a cheap doohickie?
Thank you everyone, I really do appreciate the time it takes to read and answer quesitons and I enjoy reading other's questions and answers to those, as well.
Namaste
Rowyn
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  #13  
Old 2011-02-17, 5:17pm
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Default Mapp gas leaking -help!

Hi

I have a brand new 1# of mapp pro and it's got a bum seal. It wouldn't light and when I took the torch off it leaks/hisses and then stops. When I move the can even just tilt it it hisses. I put it outside but it only leaks when moved.

What do I do with it?

thanks
*R*
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  #14  
Old 2011-02-18, 10:24am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irjc View Post
Will it hurt non sriking coulour to decrease and increase for a kiln strike?

If I work a reduction or striking colour in the flame and then put it in the kiln, if it's garaged at ___ and annealed at the same temp it will stay the same but if I do a kiln strike then all the flame work is for naught? or is it?
OI!!!

Garage and anneal at the same temp of 940, with soft glass I don't believe you should have to kiln strike any of your silver glass colors. Kiln striking glass is usually only used for boro colors.
Someone else who uses more silver glass soft glass, correct me if i am wrong in this. I moved to mostly boro about 6 months after silver glass in soft hit big. Although I do have a nice collecting, as I still like to play with it


when the gas is low in the mapp pro container is it an oxidizing flame?

It is much harder it get a true oxidizing flame with a hot head, I will see if I can find an old thread that can give you some better hints on how to accomplish this better. It has been 12 years since I used one and they changed the HH since than.

My helios bead stayed silver...now to try to get more colours....it was a tiny test bead but it's my first reduction (it's reduction not striking?)..like I said--OI!
OK, time to go light--oh yeah--I notice when I use the striker thing I got at HD the HH seems to spark like it gets dust from the flint. It doesn't do that when I use a match--is the flint dust supposed to happen or did I get a cheap doohickie?

That is correct and that the flint is coming off, this is supposed to happen. You have a striker, it is using the flint rubbing against the metal, when adding the gas from your tank that produces the flame.
There is nothing wrong with what you bought, just be careful if it doesn't strike within the first 2 times! You must do those quickly, you should turn the gas on low, strike quickly, twice, if it doesn't light, turn off your gas, wait until the fumes in the room air out before you try and light your torch again so you don't get a huge flame and large combustion.
Even with the best ventilation letting your gas out into your room without it being lit can be dangerous, it will pool to the ground as it is heavier than air.


Thank you everyone, I really do appreciate the time it takes to read and answer quesitons and I enjoy reading other's questions and answers to those, as well.
Namaste
Rowyn
I have answered your question above in between your post in red, I thought it might be the best way to do this. Hope it doesn't bother you.
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  #15  
Old 2011-02-18, 10:27am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irjc View Post
Hi

I have a brand new 1# of mapp pro and it's got a bum seal. It wouldn't light and when I took the torch off it leaks/hisses and then stops. When I move the can even just tilt it it hisses. I put it outside but it only leaks when moved.

What do I do with it?

thanks
*R*
Take the tank back to the store where you bought it from and exchange it for the a new tank. They should just give you a new one or fund your money for the damaged tank.
Hopefully you kept your receipt, even if you didn't, if it was a place like Home Depo, Lowes, or a Welding Suppy house you shouldn't need one.
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  #16  
Old 2011-02-18, 10:15pm
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There are some silver glass colours that kiln strike - Pandora is all kiln striking, and several of the the silver striking colours will continue to develop their colours during garaging, TAG Fire Lotus comes to mind. Really, it is a question of experimenting, if you want to try and get more 'colours' out of a reduction glass colour, try cooling it more before re-introducing it to the flame, or try cycling through reduction/neutral/reduction/ to see if you can get more colour. This works well with Psyche, haven't tried Helios yet, but have some of the prototypes. I actually like them better encased.
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  #17  
Old 2011-02-21, 11:42am
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would it be ok to anneal non striking glass with striking glass at a striking schedule--hold 930, ramp 9999 to 950, shut off???

Thanks
Namaste
Rowyn
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  #18  
Old 2011-02-21, 2:05pm
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Yes, you can anneal striking and non-striking glass colours together, make the striking colours first so they garage longer, this can help with the kiln strike.

The schedule you were describing is not an annealing schedule BTW, you need a slow and controlled cool from garaging to a stress point temp and hold for an hour or so there, then a slow cool to room temp. At least that is the schedule I've used for 7 years.
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