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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #31  
Old 2011-05-22, 10:46am
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It's a fabulous system - I've been getting the whole of the UK infected, lol!

Here are some of mine:


In the pink by Sabine Little, on Flickr

(Erm, I have my own sterling silver range of rings and pendants which fits with the system, too, but being in the UK, I'm hardly round the corner )
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  #32  
Old 2011-05-22, 11:28am
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OMG those are gorgeous Sabine! I'm dabbling with making sculptural bases, but I never can tell if they're too big (in height) to fit the nuts onto the threaded shaft. Do you have any tips for that...do you just eyeball it
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Last edited by JetAge Studio; 2011-05-22 at 11:32am.
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  #33  
Old 2011-05-22, 11:34am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flonche View Post
Thanks Renee!
You're welcome Flo! I can't wait to see your creations!!!
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  #34  
Old 2011-05-22, 11:50am
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Hi Renee, I'm happy to help if I can - do you glue the nuts in? I always make mine directly on the nut, I have found it to be more stable (maybe I've just not found the right glue ). I pull petals as I go along (growing a third hand at strategically important moments, lol!) I demonstrated the technique at the UK Flame Off last year, and there was meant to be a video of demos - I'll see what's happened to that! The main thing, I found, was more to do with pendants than rings - because rings curve away from the top, it doesn't matter if petals stick out a bit, but if the roses are to go onto pendants, I spend a lot of time with a marver, making sure the base is absolutely level. I couldn't get that with the glued nuts (they kept 'sinking'), so that's another reason why I make them directly on the nuts. I blogged a short tutorial for making tops directly on the nuts last month, here it is:

http://littlecastledesigns.blogspot....-tutorial.html

...in case that helps?
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  #35  
Old 2011-05-22, 12:16pm
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Oh! I think I was thinking you were making the petals as a separate base structure than the center....they're so perfect! I was thinking you were stacking the petal section to change out from the tops Your tut is a great to explain...you're making one sculptural piece....makes perfect sense! Just gorgeous!


Here's what I was thinking (just imagine the green base was the petal section)
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Last edited by JetAge Studio; 2011-05-22 at 12:22pm.
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  #36  
Old 2011-05-22, 12:32pm
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Aaah, I see what you're saying now No, I played with that idea for a bit, but haven't found a reason to have non-matching flowers, so the roses are all one whole top. This is what one looks from the back on one of my pendants:


small drop-back by Sabine Little, on Flickr

When I designed my range, though, I did want the opportunity to have some petals around smaller ring tops, so we created this pendant:


starpendant by Sabine Little, on Flickr

...and because I think the tops look nice with a proper bezel, I made myself a 'faux bezel' by soldering sterling gallery wire to a sterling disc - as long as I make sure the top fits, it looks like it's properly set


'Faux' Bezel by Sabine Little, on Flickr

(sorry, I'll stop hogging now )
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  #37  
Old 2011-05-22, 2:30pm
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Gosh Sabine! Those are FAB!!!!
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  #38  
Old 2011-05-22, 3:46pm
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Wow Sabine, this is truly gorgeous work
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  #39  
Old 2011-05-22, 4:38pm
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Incredibly awesome Sabine! I LOVE the pendant backs you've created.....this system is so wonderful for artists' to create their own design elements to combine with their glass tops. I think that's why I'm so hooked now as well. There's really no limit to combining the elements you want...just limited to the threaded shank size I guess ! Your examples are stunning.
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  #40  
Old 2011-05-22, 4:59pm
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OMG, these rings are all so gorgeous!

Thank-you Renee and Sabine for your tutorials. I really want to try these.
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  #41  
Old 2011-05-22, 7:56pm
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Renee, does a standard 2mm nut (referenced in Sabine's blog tutorial) fit onto the rings you will be carrying? How tall is the screw peg on the rings?

Sabine, your blog tut mentions burning off the plastic from the nuts? Are you using polyester lined bolts? If so, when the plastic burns off, how does the bolt hold onto the setting?


Thanks!


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  #42  
Old 2011-05-22, 10:47pm
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Thank you so much everybody!!!!

Jo, sorry, that might be misleading - it's a 2mm mandrel, but the nut is 2.5mm, same as the other systems. I use specialist lock nuts - the polyester (certainly in the nuts I'm using) isn't vital to secure the top on the ring, but I like that the dome provides some security from 'overscrewing' and damaging the glass top that way. There are also rubber rings at the base of the threaded shaft on the ring, so you screw the top onto the squishy 'washer' which secures it. Still, on all rings (including the commercially available tops), it can happen that they loosed during the course of the day - so you just get used to fiddling now and then, giving it a little tug to make sure it's screwed on tight.

If it helps? When I sell one, I've made a little brochure to explain the system, and give some specific tips like 'hold the glass, screw the metal' (so if somebody has butter fingers, it's the metal that takes the hit), only tighten to finger tight, check it during the day, and (it sounds daft, but remember it's glass. The system takes a little while to filter through into public conscience, at fairs, I deliberately encourage people to play around, I have made some sterling and felt discs to go under, and people love creating their own.

Hope that helps, and thanks again for the compliments!
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  #43  
Old 2011-05-23, 8:16am
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Thanks, Sabine, that does help a lot! Do you have a photo of what the nuts look like?


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  #44  
Old 2011-05-23, 9:40am
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Hi Jo,

like these ones - I know people who have managed to balance two 'normal' threaded nuts (without the dome) on top of each other), but in my humble opinion, just just making life unnecessarily difficult
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  #45  
Old 2011-05-23, 11:35am
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Oh, I see~ the plastic part is beyond the threaded portion of the nut, it's like a little cushion in the top...... thanks, Sabine!



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  #46  
Old 2011-05-23, 12:19pm
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No problem
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  #47  
Old 2011-05-23, 4:39pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frit Diva View Post
Renee, does a standard 2mm nut (referenced in Sabine's blog tutorial) fit onto the rings you will be carrying? How tall is the screw peg on the rings?

Jo
Hi Jo, yes, it does appear the threads on Sabine's referenced nuts will fit these rings. The rings have 2.5 metric threads cut on them, so if you find nuts that are made with that size thread, they will fit. The threaded peg on the ring themselves is approx. 4mm high.

I will also have nuts available for sale on my website as they couple with the mandrel system I will carry, and fit perfectly on the rings.
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  #48  
Old 2011-05-23, 8:59pm
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Thanks Renee! I will definitely be watching for those!



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  #49  
Old 2011-05-23, 9:11pm
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So Sabine, you put the bloop of glass on top of these nuts, right? Does the plastic thingy melt in kiln or when torching?
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  #50  
Old 2011-05-23, 10:18pm
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Hi Yunita, that's right, I put the bloop directly on the nut, but the nut needs to be pre-heated for the plastic bit to melt, and so the metal will 'accept' the glass. The bit on my blog explains it a bit better:

http://littlecastledesigns.blogspot....-tutorial.html

There's a fine line between not getting the nut hot enough, so the glass won't stick well, and overheating it, which leads to a carbon build up on the nut, preventing the glass from sticking. It sounds complicated, but after making a few, it quickly becomes second nature.

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  #51  
Old 2011-05-23, 10:39pm
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Thanks Sabine. I appreciated.
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  #52  
Old 2011-05-26, 6:41am
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I'm still a bit confused on what size the bolt is? Is it 3/32?.... I peiced together a little set up but used faux bone for the base ring and a bolt....i'd like to make them so they are compatable with the ring ding system or the sunset blvd system, but donyou know what size the bolt is?

Any info would be great!

julie
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  #53  
Old 2011-05-26, 6:51am
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Hi Julie,

it's metric, 2.5mm - 3/32 is 2.38mm, so I think you'll need some metric nuts to make top to fit
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  #54  
Old 2011-05-26, 2:36pm
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Julie, your ring sounds really cool. I'd love to see it. I have some bolts coming in that are 2.5m threads in 5mm and 7mm heights....They're just the bolts with a very small head on them, I'm sure the head could be filed off if you're gluing it into the faux bone. I wonder if that would work for you (if you want to stick with the 2.5 metric size of this system). They're designed to be used with "straps", like leather or rubber/silicon ribbon rings and bracelets, but I don't see why it couldn't be altered to be glued into or fabricated into another media...that's what I had planned for them anyway!
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Old 2011-05-26, 5:59pm
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Hi,
These are made with 10-24 size bolt and nuts. for the blue one I used a different type of nut that is smaller than the one that I used for the yellow one. It makes the yellow one a bit bigger, because the nut was longer. I guess I could have cut it down, but am just doing some experimenting.

I attached the beads to faux bone. The difficulty is that to have the ring fit nicely and not be too bulky, I had to use the thinnest faux bone. THis causes some issues in trying to hide the bolt head. I think the next step is to try to use the thicker faux bone, thin down the sides and sink the bolt into the faux bone from the back.

These are an absolute blast to make!!!!

Here are a couple of the faux bone shanks that I made. THe bolts are quite a bit larger than the european ring-ding bolts/nuts...but I suppose it really doesn't matter as long as you can provide a base to your customers....

Any thoughts on these?

Thanks!
Julie
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Old 2011-05-26, 6:57pm
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Old 2011-05-26, 7:23pm
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Thanks...these are so much fun to make.
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Old 2011-05-26, 10:08pm
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They look great Julie, I love your ring tops, too!

I'm not sure how well the European systems (including mine) will do in America, I think the fact that they are metric will go against them, so I think an imperial measure option like you have is a fab idea
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  #59  
Old 2011-05-27, 10:26am
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Very cool solution, Julie, and I really like your ring tops! Where did you get the faux bone? is it difficult to work with? I have been very curious about that stuff... did you take a class to learn how to use it?

Congrats on being so clever!

Jo
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Old 2011-05-27, 10:52am
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I loved the look of Faux Bone ever since I saw a course by Robert Dancik (couldn't attend at the time) here in the uk - you can only get it in the US though (http://www.fauxbone.com/), he also has a blog.

Great rings everyone
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