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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2012-11-15, 9:32am
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Default Oxygen supplement

I have a devilbiss 5 Lpm concentrator and was wondering if it is possible to add extra oxygen by tank. I'm too cheap to go to tanked full time and I only have a cricket torch. I just want bigger and faster.

I would set the tank pressure at a low setting so the concentrator does most of the work, but want more.

I also work in the basement and don't want to lug tanks all the time. But if I only had to do it every few weeks it wouldn't be so bad.
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Old 2012-11-15, 9:39am
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won't work. the pressure from the tanked oxy will override the oxycon and damage it. even with a check valve it won't work.
about the only way i see it happening is if you just switch your hoses over. run the oxycon straight to the torch, and when you decide to use bottled do the same...remove the oxycon hose from the torch and replace it with the hose from the tank.
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Old 2012-11-15, 10:14am
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Have you considered;
Adding a second oxycon?
Replacing the one you have with a larger one?
Running a longer line to the basement so you don't need to move the tank so far?


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Old 2012-11-15, 11:00am
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or even a homefill. twas the best $700 i've spent yet.
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Old 2012-11-15, 11:48am
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Who makes a decent home fill that would work with a devilbiss? That is probably the best to have for when I decide to get a bigger torch.
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Old 2012-11-15, 12:02pm
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afaik with the high pressure whip any oxycon should work. i've got the invacare homefill but run it with ex15 oxycons.
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  #7  
Old 2012-11-15, 6:10pm
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Some use an on demand system that ups the concentrator pressure to the 30 to 50 PSI range.
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  #8  
Old 2012-11-18, 11:36am
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Going to hijack for a second....Where can I get the stuffs to connect to oxycons? :/
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Old 2012-11-18, 12:20pm
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Rose, you should be able to get the "t" at any hardware store in the plumbing section


As far as a whip for connecting the homefill you should be able to use some (cleaned) heavy wall copper tubing (not hardware store) and flare nuts
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Old 2012-11-25, 4:53am
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Once you hook up a tank, you'll never want a concentrator again Well, that's not true, especially with the new whips and fillers. I worked on a Lynx for many a year on one machine .... then two machines .... then tank. PSI is so important in flame chemistry and that's just what I learned. I've never went back to the machines and now am on a Mirage. I saved all my machines, I think I have 3 or 4 and plan on getting a homefill before summer. GL!
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Old 2012-11-25, 7:09am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houptdavid View Post
Rose, you should be able to get the "t" at any hardware store in the plumbing section


As far as a whip for connecting the homefill you should be able to use some (cleaned) heavy wall copper tubing (not hardware store) and flare nuts
no, the whip that connects the homefill to the tank needs to be steel braided 3000psi with connectors on each end....one that fits the tank and one that fits the homefill unit....and they are both proprietary connectors nothing generic.
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Old 2012-11-25, 10:44am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by istandalone24/7 View Post
the whip that connects the homefill to the tank needs to be steel braided 3000psi with connectors on each end....one that fits the tank and one that fits the homefill unit....and they are both proprietary connectors nothing generic.
Sorry, wrong! Heavy wall copper tubing is rated depending on the wall thickness, (one is 3000 psi) you can get the tank end fittings thru an industrial gas supplier, I don't know about the other end for the actual home fill unit (I only know because I have some manifold parts left from my father who was an engineer for Linde)
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Old 2012-11-25, 11:03am
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i guess i was wrong about that, but yes on the homefill side there is a special connector.

also it's not really a good idea to build one of those whips unless you really know what your doing....they call the "whips" for a reason. if it lets go under high pressure i pity the guy who has to wrangle hose.
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Old 2012-11-25, 11:10am
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Oh I know all about the whip part, I had a fitting end snap on a dive tank (backintheday) that caught me in the neck once
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Old 2012-11-25, 11:44am
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ouch!!
there's a guy over on the melting pot selling the homefills and whips, i'm pretty sure he gets the homefill attachment from a medical supply warehouse.
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Old 2012-11-26, 10:54pm
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Your concentrator probably isnt going to cut it for a homefill you will get really slow fill rates most likely. The whip doesnt need to be stainless I use a special nylon hoses on the whips I make. There is enough info on talkglass to figure out what you need to make a whip and then some.
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  #17  
Old 2012-11-27, 7:07am
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your using nylon hose between your homefill and tank? talk about dangerous.
sucks to be you if that lets go. they make them from braided stainless for a reason.
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Old 2012-11-27, 8:16am
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Nylon plastic like hose is pretty standard. I have used it for years, talked with enginers and hose people. I have a compressor that can fill a K tank in under 10 hours that uses that type of hose on the inside between the rocking pistons and outside of the compressor. Hell I was the first guy to my knowledge to make a whip with a nipple from the homefill tanks.

Last edited by drew1492; 2012-11-27 at 8:18am.
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  #19  
Old 2012-11-27, 9:22am
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no offense, but that's nuts. all that psi in nylon? recipe for disaster imo.
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Old 2012-12-05, 10:48pm
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We use a 6000 psi system at my Firehouse. C class SCBA and SCUBA breathing air, certified every 6 months. Built and installed 3 years ago by Eagle Air. 7-300 cf tank cascade system.
Guess what kind of hoses? Nylon with CGA ends! Old system lasted over 20 years with same type hoses. We upgraded because we moved to larger/ higher pressure tanks for our air packs. Never had a failure. And we are dealing with Fire Fighters! They can tear up an anvil with a feather!
My homfill system uses the same hoses, from the same company. Just make sure the hoses and fittings are certified for 3000 + psi and oxygen safe.
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Old 2012-12-07, 1:40pm
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I am at a loss on this one. Absolutely no reason why Nylon hose cannot be used if it is done right and the assembly is certified/rated for sufficient pressure.
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  #22  
Old 2012-12-07, 1:47pm
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the key phrase here is, if it is done right. even then i don't think i'd trust it.
nylon vs braided steel at very high psi's....it's a no brainer to me.
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  #23  
Old 2012-12-07, 2:48pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by istandalone24/7 View Post
the key phrase here is, if it is done right. even then i don't think i'd trust it.
nylon vs braided steel at very high psi's....it's a no brainer to me.
Umm. Anything must be "Done Right" and any material can be "Done Wrong". No Brainer I guess.
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