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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2009-02-13, 5:15pm
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SassyGlass9 SassyGlass9 is offline
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Default Trouble with Triton

OK, so I am pretty sure it's just "operator error" , but ever since I switched from my Minor to a Cheetah (which I LOVE!) I can't seem to get Triton to play nicely. WTH?? I used to be able to pretty easily get a gorgeous metallic silver out of this glass. Now I get - well, mud. OK, maybe not quite mud, but it sure as heck ain't silvery!

I've tried various different combinations of less oxy, more propane, marvering to cool the glass in between heatings, etc. All the stuff that used to work... now, not so much.

Any pointers on what I am doing wrong?? Out of 5 beads last night, I only got decent colors approaching that gorgeous silver on one of them.
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  #2  
Old 2009-02-13, 5:27pm
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Hayley Hayley is offline
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Rene' - what size is your yellow candle and where do you place your bead? Do you turn down the oxy, turn up the propane, or both to get your reduction flame?

Try a small reducing flame by turning DOWN your oxy and reduce your bead multiple times. Alternate between bouncing your bead right outside the tip of the yellow candle to 6" from the torch face. You may increase your propane a bit when it's 6" from the torch face.

Hope this helps.
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  #3  
Old 2009-02-13, 5:40pm
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Hi Hayley! I was hoping you would answer!!! Thank you.

I've tried turning down the oxy (turn the blue knob off entirely and turn the main oxy knob down) and I've tried turning the propane up, and also a bit of both! It's just weird - I used to be able to get that metallic look so easily with Triton. I will try it the way you suggested - fingers crossed! I just love the look of the Triton when it reduces to that silvery metallic.
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  #4  
Old 2009-02-13, 6:00pm
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Rene' - as I understand with the triple mix torches, you need to keep the blue knob slightly cracked, never completely off.

It's always a challenge when you use different torches for silver glass (as well as different oxy/propane or oxy/ng set up) . . . I always keep my fingers and toes crossed when I teach or demo at unfamiliar places! lol! I get a completely different reduction sequence when I have one M15 on or both M15s on with my Barracuda! It's just a matter of getting used to it.

Let me know how it goes!
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  #5  
Old 2009-02-13, 9:05pm
Kym Kym is offline
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I usually get that if I reduce it too far into the flame. I try and stay on the very outside of the flame and just dabble it in and out of the flame aura? Not sure if aura is the word, but not in the visible part anyway.

Kym
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  #6  
Old 2009-02-13, 11:22pm
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Feldt's Glass Feldt's Glass is offline
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The cheetah is a bit tricky to get used to. It took me a little bit before I really got the hang of things again. It’s just a matter of understanding this torch as compared to your old one.

For any of the silver glasses make sure you work them in a good neutral flame. This is very important because the cheetah is a bit deceiving at first. When you are sure it is a neutral flame test it with any of the silver glasses about 4-5 inches from the candles. If you get any metallic either give more oxy or cut down on the propane. The blue knob should be cracked slightly.

To get a nice metallic I just drop the oxy slightly maybe a quarter turn. It doesn’t need to be off much on this torch to get the metallic color.
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  #7  
Old 2009-02-14, 9:30am
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Is it possible you are maintaining a hotter base since switching torches? It may take longer to cool down the bead to get a good metallic. Check under the table to see if all the glow is gone before trying to reduce.
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  #8  
Old 2009-02-16, 11:08pm
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Double Helix Glassworks Double Helix Glassworks is offline
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Default Games You Can Play with Your GTT

I have two special flame settings I use for reduction on my GTT Mirage. Perhaps one may work for your Cheetah. It is not advisable to use slow, lazy flames on a GTT, as it is oxygen flow that keeps the burner face from overheating and becoming damaged. To work around this, I do one of two things to achieve a reduction flame that will luster silvered glasses.

1.) dial in a long tight flame with plenty of blue knob. Decrease your green knob until the flame is very linear and straight, then slowly roll open the propane until there is a big, busy, turbulent orange flame that scares the daylights out of anyone near you. It will be big. It will be bright. It will be noisy. It will be OK. Roll your bead out in the bushy part for a few seconds without burning yourself. Then roll your propane back down to a reasonable level again, and return your green knob to an adequate flow to maintain the oxygen's cooling effect on the torch body.

2.) OR Dial in a tight, long flame using moderate blue knob, and carefully shut off the green knob, and increase your propane until the candles are stretched to an inch or two. IT IS IMPORTANT WHEN RUNNING THIS WEIRD FLAME SETTING THAT THE FLAME IS "PUSHED" OFF THE BURNER FACE OR YOU COULD OVERHEAT YOUR TORCH.

That said, I have not used a Cheetah for a while, and though it works like a charm on the Lynx centerfire of my Mirage, I don't know for sure if it will work the same on your Cheetah. This message is not officially endorsed by Willy and Wally, but if you have questions about GTT's, they really know their stuff. And they build some beautiful torches.

Jed at Double Helix
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  #9  
Old 2009-02-17, 9:35am
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Rene'-
All the advice given is wonderful!
I have one trick I used to use with my Cheetah. First I turn the Oxy down and let the candles get really long. Then instead of putting the bead into the flame, I hold the bead just under the flame and rotate the mandrel. This position reduces the glass slowly so you can see when you get the iridescence and the metallics and you can stop when you like.
The best reduction for me was just under where the tip of the long candles are. if you go closer in towards the torch head, it will reduce to opaque faster.
Everyone's setup is different and this may not work for you, but I hope it helps!
Good Luck!!!
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  #10  
Old 2009-02-17, 11:15am
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SassyGlass9 SassyGlass9 is offline
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OMGosh, thanks everyone! I was getting myself so frustrated with this! In my little pea brain, it just seemed that reducing should be so much EASIER with my Cheetah than with a Minor...

But I realize from reading the posts that it's not a matter of easier or harder, but more a matter of DIFFERENT. Makes perfect sense, now that I think about it - each torch is different! So obvious, now that you guys pointed it out to me!

Now I have all sorts of great advice, and wish I could try it right now. But I will have to wait til I get home from work tonight.
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