Using Sludge™ Mandrel Releases

[arrowsprings]

Using Sludge™ Mandrel Releases

Sludge™ mandrel releases give superior holding strength to the tugging and twisting rigors of even the most aggressive beadmaker, yet the bead easily twists off when it cools. Sludge™ mandrel releases come premixed, except original Sludge™ concentrate.

Sludge Plus™ is generally the recommended release because of its balance of superior holding power, ease of use, easy releasing of the bead when cool and smoother coating.

Original Sludge™ does not have all the additives of Sludge Plus™ and is not quite as strong.

SUPER BLUE Sludge™ is similar to Sludge Plus™ except without the graphite, thereby making it a little stronger than most beadmakers need.
Here are some hints and techniques to obtain optimal performance.

If left unused too long, Sludge™ will separate and will need to be remixed. If it does not reconstitute after shaking, stir it, then shake it again. The consistency can be changed by adding water or by leaving the lid off to evaporate away the water. Sludge™ does get old and even if it becomes completely dry water will reconstitute it.

To coat the mandrel evenly we recommend the following procedure: Hold the end of the mandrel loosely between your finger and thumb. Quickly dip the mandrel into the release and then quickly pull it out. Holding the mandrel this way insures that it will go straight in and straight out and make a round coating. If the mandrel is withdrawn at an angle, the coating may have a ridge down its length. The action of dipping the mandrel quickly causes the release to coat thicker. To coat the mandrel even thicker, quickly and continuously dip the mandrel in and out several times. The more you repeat, the thicker the coating. This is better than dipping, drying and then dipping again. Dipping the mandrel slowly applies a thinner coat. A mandrel with a very thin coating is harder to remove, especially if the mandrel is bent.

Turn the mandrel around and gently tap the end opposite the dipped end on the table surface. This gives the coating a very smooth surface. Turn the mandrel back around and vertically place it in a holder to dry. A container filled with sand works well. After coating the mandrel it is best to let it air dry. Once the mandrels have become dry enough to handle, you can quickly and thoroughly dry them by placing them on top of a hot annealer. If you’re in a hurry, Sludge™ can be slowly dried in the very back part of the flame.

Very important! Heat the mandrel until red-hot for one full second in the area where the bead will be.

The magic about Sludge™ is that it holds beads when they are hot and releases them when they are cool. This will happen best, if the area of the mandrel where the bead will be has been heated until red-hot before applying glass to it.

If a bead is ever difficult to remove form the mandrel, you most likely did not get the coating hot enough. When heated properly, the coating will lose its strength permanently after cooling. For this reason, apply glass to the mandrel while the coating is still very hot. It need not be red hot, but almost.

If the bead ever spins off while you are making it, you probably did get the mandrel red hot but then let it get too cool before applying glass to it. Once glass is on the mandrel, proper beadmaking techniques will assure that the glass will hold enough heat to keep the coating hot.

If bubbles appear in the glass near the mandrel release, the mandrel release was probably not dried thoroughly.

HINT: If you are making a very long bead, perhaps two or three inches long, you may find it difficult to keep the entire bead properly hot.

Typically, what happens is that while you are heating one end of the bead in the flame the other end is getting too cool. Of course the mandrel release is also getting too cool. Besides the bead possibly breaking from uneven heat stress, you might find that the mandrel release has also cooled too much and that it may give way while you are still working. To remedy this problem, only heat the mandrel release to red-hot where it will be in the central part of the long bead. Near the bead holes where the mandrel release never became red hot, the mandrel release will be strong while hot and stay strong even when cool. This procedure will make the bead only slightly harder to remove from the mandrel but will insure success.

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[paintingwithglass]

Awesome! Thank you for sharing with us!!

[jacki]

YES! thank you--that explains the trouble i was having with sludge on long beads. much appreciated!
jacki

[DawnT]

Great tips! I used to use Sludge Plus and loved it but decided to try some that could be flame-dried. Maybe I'll try again now that I know I can dry it on my annealer!

[arrowsprings]

Glad to be of help.