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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2006-03-07, 10:10pm
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meadowesky meadowesky is offline
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Default color reactions?

Just wondering what colors have reactions with ivory and dark ivory. I tried out the turquios tonight and it was so cool. So am I left to my own mad scientist devices or what do you think? Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 2006-03-07, 10:11pm
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also any other colors that react with other colors please fill me in, I am feeling quite slow tonight! Thanks
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  #3  
Old 2006-03-07, 10:34pm
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Coral reacts with them....similar to turquoise reaction....there is also raku....if using raku, LESS IS MORE as the reactions are intense.
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  #4  
Old 2006-03-07, 10:38pm
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Do you have any intense black? That's a good one to play with Ivory. Do you have any silver foil? You could make silvered ivory stringer.
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  #5  
Old 2006-03-07, 10:42pm
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no intense black but I do have a big order coming soon and I was able to get some vetro black which I heard is really good. I have no foil but I do have silver leaf and copper leaf. I just tried the petroleum green and it reacted about the same as turqouis. So besides ivory, will I get any other reactions out of anything? I have tried the raku and love it. Actually just ordered several rods of it. That stuff is cool!!!
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  #6  
Old 2006-03-07, 11:06pm
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You can make some silvered ivory stringer using the leaf. Get a gather of ivory, roll over some silver leaf, burnish it in thouroughly, heat again, and pull a stringer out of it. This looks neat over other colors.
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  #7  
Old 2006-03-08, 12:10am
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Thanks for answering my question! I will try the silvered ivory. so do I let the silver burn off or try to leave it on the surface...

Also why does glass react with ivory? I know think I know that the turquois and such has sulpher? in it but what does ivory have that the other colors dont to make it react like that? Thanks.
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  #8  
Old 2006-03-08, 12:12am
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Burn it off. You can't pull it without doing that really anyway. lol
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  #9  
Old 2006-03-08, 12:34am
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I dont know sometimes you all do some crazy things!LOL
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  #10  
Old 2006-03-08, 5:49am
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A great DVD for you would be Jim Smircich's "Smircich Makes Beads" volume 1. He uses intense black stringers, but pulls them out into fine almost hair-like and "scribbles" them onto the surface of ivory. Then heats that slowly and this makes an interesting "web" effect.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, I think that's how he did it. I wish I didn't sell my DVD, and I would love to purchase it again!

Copper green reacts nicely with the turquoises and petroleum (opaque teal) green. You will see a lighter line of copper green surrounding the brighter copper green in the middle.
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  #11  
Old 2006-03-08, 6:23am
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There are a lot of color reactions shown in Corina's "Not Witchcraft" bead challenge: http://www.gemfox.com/corinabeads/be...challenge.html Click on the "Not Witchcraft" challenge, then click on the pictures and there will be a comment on how the reaction was achieved.

Also, Jim Smircich's description of the "Black Lace" effect with intense black is available here: http://www.smircich.com/html/black_lace.html

Have a good time! Color reactions are a lot of fun. One of my favorites is transparent dark aqua on dark ivory.

Edited to fix a link
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  #12  
Old 2006-03-08, 7:48am
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Any of the colors colored with sulfur and the colors colored with copper will react.
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  #13  
Old 2006-03-08, 2:08pm
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Heather/Ericaceae Heather/Ericaceae is offline
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To clarify what Chad said, the copper colours are the blueish greeny colours - Copper Green, Petroleum Green, Turquoise, Sky Blue, [Edit: and grey...] in that order (all opaque). If you overheat copper colours you can actually draw the copper to the surface in reddish spots! (This usually just looks dirty, though). Mosaic Green, Rubino Pink and Evil Devitrifying Purple (254) may or may not have copper (I don't really know) but they play well with the copper family.

Any of the copper colours will react with the Sulfur family - Dark ivory, light ivory, red, yellow, coral, orange, brown, etc. You'll always get a black outline where a sulfur family touches a copper family opaque. If you overheat the combination you lose the crispness and get a fuzzy brownish halo. Some combos can hardly handle heat at all - ivory doesn't play well with mosaic green, rubino or EDP. In my opinion!

You can think of the colours that aren't in these families as the non-allied colours. They'll mix safely (no brown blur) with anything! In my experience, white, black, periwinkle, pea green, nile green, opaque cobalt/lapis blue, opal yellow, violet, and (grey) are non-allied.
[Edit - in recent experiements, I've found Grey to actually be in the Copper family!)

A lot of colours "concentrate" by forming a darker/more transparent centre stripe when they meet a certain other colour, as Lisa/Stephanibeads describes. It's pretty!

Other reactive colours include:

EDP (254 opaque purple) : Spreads into opal yellow with a lovely orange outline, does concentration effects with tons of colours - turquoise, copper green, etc. Strong "brown fuzzy edge" reaction with the sulfur family. Oh, and it kinda likes to devitrify! Keep it out of the flame or *right in* a hot flame - avoid indirect or weak flame. Varies in colour from a pale pink to deep magenta to deep purple, depending on how it's treated in the flame.

Mosaic green - strong brown-fuzzy edge reaction with sulfur family. Strong concentration effects with cool colours. Spreads out like crazy on non-allied colours (Opal yellow, white). Repels silver.

Intense Black - Stays black when stretched thin. When super-heated, tends to spread out into a Black Lace effect. Bubbles if re-heated after being marvered by a cold tool. Heat tools before marvering to avoid this.

Ruby Gold - Transparent, striking. Doesn't really like sulfur colours. Pretty orange halo on opal yellow. Condenses many copper colours. Goes nuts with silver (greenish/blue galactic/faux boro effect!). Reduces.

There are LOTS more - the mad scientist approach is very helpful! One fun way to play is to mix some fairly non-allied colours and/or colours from *one* of the reactive families (I'd start with the cool copper family). You can heat these combinations pretty hard-core and it won't go brown on you, but you might get fun spreading, mixing and concentrating. When you have finished your base shaping and are happy with your background mix, then add something from the opposing family (ie, sulfur if you started with copper). Heat lightly so that you get the meltage you want and a crisp black outline (which will fade out where it hits the non-copper-family colours), but not so much that you get the brown halo. Sulfur/copper twisties are fun, too!

Hours of entertainment! Enjoy! -Heather

Last edited by Heather/Ericaceae; 2006-06-06 at 10:05am.
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  #14  
Old 2006-03-08, 7:06pm
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wow thank you so much! exactly what I was looking for!
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  #15  
Old 2006-03-08, 7:21pm
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very cool!
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  #16  
Old 2006-03-08, 7:31pm
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Wow, Heather, that is some great info! We should rate this thread!
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  #17  
Old 2006-03-09, 6:28pm
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Corina has a booklet called Magic Color Reactions....I think it's for sale on her website www.corinabeads.com
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  #18  
Old 2006-03-09, 7:13pm
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Wow.. I just learned some really cool stuff.
THANKEE!
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  #19  
Old 2006-03-10, 11:13am
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Here is a link to a challenge on Corina's website that has tons of bead reactions. Just click on the bead and it will give you info on how the bead was made. Enjoy.

http://www.gemfox.com/corinabeads/ch...challengeID=12
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  #20  
Old 2006-03-10, 11:28am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLY Creations
Here is a link to a challenge on Corina's website that has tons of bead reactions. Just click on the bead and it will give you info on how the bead was made. Enjoy.

http://www.gemfox.com/corinabeads/ch...challengeID=12
The booklet isn't really much different than web site, so if you want to save $ just look on line. If I remember right not everything on the web made it into the booklet.
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  #21  
Old 2006-03-10, 9:14pm
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Is this a dumb question?
Will vetrofond rods react the same way as moretti colors?
S
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  #22  
Old 2006-03-11, 8:17am
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Well I asked this a few days ago and this is what I got...

Moretti intense black is 50$ per pound, Vetro Black is cheaper and similar. It wont turn the purple like Moretti regular black does.

Moretti Dark Ivory and Ivory has more color variations than Vetro Ivory and Dark Ivory.

Moretti Green Mosiac is different than Vetro green mosiac petroleum pastel and is also different from Moretti Petroleum Green.

Periwinkle- very very close match. the vetro is said to be a bit stiffer than the moretti.

Clear- I prefer vetro, it does not scum as easily and is awesome!

turquoise and dark turquoise- some say that vetro does not reduce as easily.

Transparents- vetro is said to be less scummy and have brighter colors than moretti.

these are the results that I pulled from what everyone gave me. I did order a bunch of each recently and that should be here next week. I do plan on making a comparison spreadsheet with examples for my own use so when I get around to that i would be happy to share.
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  #23  
Old 2006-03-11, 3:46pm
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The moretti intense black is much more expensive as you have already found but it does things that no other black can do. It can last a long time because you will only use it for a few specific things. The vetro black is good for opaque areas on beads....better than moretti which often ends up looking like dark purple unless you are making a solid bead of it. But, for the lace effect, I believe that only intense black will work. When it is heated a lot, it spreads out with lines radiating out of the edges. Lines made with intense black do not stay crisp when heated fairly hot. It will do this whether it is pulled thin or applied in fat lines. This can sometimes ruin a design....so it is not always a good thing. It can also add a wonderful organic aspect to the bead that just can't be beat. I recommend that you buy a quarter pound and try it out. Refer to the info on Jim's website and then play with it; it is fun! But don't use it for your regular black glass.
J
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  #24  
Old 2006-03-11, 4:43pm
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Thanks for the answer Meadowsky,
I need new ivory and green and didnt know if I should try the vetrofond. But I think I'll stick w the moretti for now. So many $$ , so many colors.
S
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  #25  
Old 2006-03-11, 7:58pm
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Great Information!

Thanks, Dawn
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  #26  
Old 2006-05-08, 11:29am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meadowesky
no intense black but I do have a big order coming soon and I was able to get some vetro black which I heard is really good. I have no foil but I do have silver leaf and copper leaf. I just tried the petroleum green and it reacted about the same as turqouis. So besides ivory, will I get any other reactions out of anything? I have tried the raku and love it. Actually just ordered several rods of it. That stuff is cool!!!
Hi, I received a package of both silver foil and copper leaf today and I tried one bead with the copper. It sort of burned off right away and I had a hard time getting the bead encased after that. Do you have any tips for me as to how to apply silver and copper to make a beautiful bead? It would be much appreciated.
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  #27  
Old 2006-05-09, 5:33pm
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One thing that helps when applying silver leaf is to burnish it in before encasing. I make a base bead, like a barrel, and roll it onto a piece of leaf. Then, I take a flat ss spatula and really rub it on and smooth it (burnish). I heat up a gather of clear and encase. I typically do not heat the base bead with the silver on it until it is encased, otherwise, the silver will burn off. You can use this to your advantage. You can put silver onto a bead and then put dollups of transparents here and there on the silver and then heat it in the flame. Only the silver covered by glass will remain. Neat effect.
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  #28  
Old 2006-05-10, 11:06am
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Thank you for your reply. I will try this method, but I do have one more question; you say you don't heat up the base bead with the silver on it, but doesn't the bead cool too much then? How do you keep the bead warm until you've heated a gather to encase with? Is keeping it under the flame good enough?

Thanks
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  #29  
Old 2006-05-10, 11:09am
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Another way to apply metal leaf is to wet a paper towel, folded in half and placed on a non-flammable surface (I use a stainless steel electric stove burner cover), squeeze out the excess water so the towel is just damp, place a square of the metal leaf flat on the damp towel. To apply to your bead, make your bead, heat it up, roll the bead on the metal leaf (on the damp paper towel), then work it as if the leaf has been burnished onto the bead -- because it has been, just by the pressure of rolling it on the leaf/paper towel/stainless steel!

It saves a lot of time, The paper towel is damp and will not catch fire. It will singe if you hold your hot bead in one place for too long, but if you roll your bead like you are supposed to, then there won't even be any singeing.

Also, there is a really beautiful effect that you can get from using both copper leaf and silver leaf on the same bead. The metals interact and make a really great organic color.
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  #30  
Old 2006-05-10, 11:33am
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Karin, I can keep it warm in the clear part of the flame near the tail. I just don't hit it with the blue part and I certainly don't get it to glow.

Also, I don't mean to be arguementative, but simply rolling a bead onto foil is not burnishing as I understand burnishing to be. Burnishing requires some force to it. I'm not questioning the effect, but I am saying that the technique used to achieve it in this example is not "burnishing."

Have you ever done copper foil stained glass? When you apply the copper foil to the edges and go over it with your fid and rub hard to get it to adhere firmly and flushly, without creases or gaps, that is burnishing. The hard rubbing is the burnishing.

PS The damp paper towel method does sound neat. I can see that it would be particularly useful for keeping the silver foil where you want it - as silver foil likes to get blown off your marver right before you need it.
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