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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2014-05-08, 9:37pm
ombwah ombwah is offline
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Default Clear glass, implosions, and cracks - trying to learn!

Hi!

I'm trying to learn implosions, but somehow I cannot seem to pull off a decent sized bead without cracks. I assume it must be annealing, because I use fiber blankets, but it only happens with the mostly clear beads, not really with cased beads, so I've only started running into it now that I'm doing these implosions into crystal clear.

I use a Hothead type torch, and a Devardi hothead type as well, same issue with both. Is it the glass or the blankets? Are there any tips for saturating the bead with enough heat to flame anneal it? I was trying something similar but the clear came out really dark, almost like I burned it or something /sigh. Each project is a learning exercise.

On the plus side, my dottie viking style are quite nice!
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  #2  
Old 2014-05-09, 6:26am
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allicat allicat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ombwah View Post
Each project is a learning exercise.
LOL That it is!

Coupla things. Flame annealing is sort of a misnomer. The glass needs to be maintained at a certain temp for a period of time (generally around 900-1050*F depending on the glass) to rid it of all the internal stress caused by manipulating it, then cooled slowly. Impossible to do with a fiber blanket. Know that beads not properly annealed stand a fairly good chance of cracking down the line as the stress is still in the glass.

Prior to getting my kiln I also used a fiber blanket. I discovered there is a fine line between putting your bead in as hot as possible, and still soft enough to get the fibers stuck on it LOL it should still be glowing a bit, but not red hot. That may be part of your problem.

Or, it may be the glasses your using are just not compatible. Even tho they are all listed at 104 COE, it's not an exact thing. That also doesn't take into account viscosity. Great article here if you want more detail: http://www.bullseyeglass.com/images/...chnotes_03.pdf . I noticed in your other thread you are using Devardi. I have some, and one in particular (the trans purple with the lilac core) seems to hate EVERY other glass I've tried it with.

And I'm going to guess your sooted up clear was on the Flameworks torch? I also started with that. It's a piece of poo LOL

Lastly, I use MapPro canisters (can't use a propane tank here). I discovered using propane canisters really mucked my beads up.

HTH!
Alli
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Last edited by allicat; 2014-05-09 at 6:35am.
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  #3  
Old 2014-05-09, 3:15pm
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Ditto on what Ali said, and yes it does seem like you burned /scammed up the clear. Very easy to do on a hh. It's lack of oxy makes for a cooler more dirty flame.

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Old 2014-05-09, 3:27pm
ombwah ombwah is offline
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Thanks so much! This is pretty much what I was worried about.
I have a tiny little heater/annealer thing that I hear I could use to cool the beads in a more controlled way, but that takes two hours of me sitting right there to tweak the dial - I need a robot!
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  #5  
Old 2014-05-09, 9:35pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ombwah View Post
I have a tiny little heater/annealer thing that I hear I could use to cool the beads in a more controlled way, !
You mean the Devardi "annealer" Please, it may be fine for "test" beads and warming rods, nothing more
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Old 2014-05-10, 6:15am
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^^hogwash. with a pyrometer and patience, it can be done.
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Old 2014-05-11, 4:43pm
ombwah ombwah is offline
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It's actually been perfect for warming rods, game changing in that respect. But I've never tried to anneal anything in it. Supposedly it can be done, and when I first got it I ramped it all the way up and down again just to burn off the manufacturing oil. It got pretty hot. /shrug, it's no digital kiln, though, that's for sure.
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  #8  
Old 2014-05-12, 3:39am
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Its the glass, get some decent good quality glass and youll have less issues
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Old 2014-05-12, 6:14am
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You might want to try working further out in the flame too. Hot heads need an inch or three to burn the fuel properly and if you get too close you will wind up bathing your glass in unburnt fuel.
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Old 2014-05-12, 1:24pm
ombwah ombwah is offline
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Again, thanks for the advice guys. Much appreciated.
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Old 2014-05-12, 2:39pm
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Also understand that any glass more than a half inch or so in diameter is just not going to cool evenly enough to survive long term. A lentil or barrel or tube, thinner than long, has a better chance, ad there is only about a 1/4" of glass on either side of the mandrel.
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  #12  
Old 2014-05-12, 2:48pm
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I must say that I never managed to make an implosion without it cracking when I was on the hothead and batch annealing.

I was using quality glass, but never succeeded.

Perhaps I need to try again now I have a kiln and am working into it.
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