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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2008-07-17, 9:49pm
DaveF DaveF is offline
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Default Announcing the XPress Bead Liner from Art in the Round

Hi,

Well, by golly, this thing is just darn neato.

Update 8-8-08
Note the name change and a new picture. There was already a tool named bead-x-press (a mold press) so I was asked to change the name and complied. I'm not going to bother to go through the entire thread to change it though. Please refer to it as Impress from now on. Thanks...



It's the Impress Bead Liner, from Art in the Round.
Super esay to use, fast, and ... affordable! About time, huh?

Pictured below are two of the several core styles possible with this tool. I'll be posting more pics later, but I wanted to finally get this show on the road. I've been experimenting for a couple months with various designs and techniques for this application, and this is the final result! I think you'll be thrilled to know these beads pictured here were done in less than three or four minutes. (Actually the one on the left I think took under a minute.)



The black bead has a silver lining, and the green bead is done in brass. Notice the smaller hole in the green one. Guess what? The two are actually the exact same size tubing! Hammering the lip all the way down like that shrinks the hole down from 5 .5 mm (on the left) to 5.0 mm (right.)

The black bead is a result of using ONLY the tool to shape the metal. Other shapes are possible as well, not shown here.

The silver tubing is Rio Grande 1/4 inch OD by .218 inch ID,
part # 100-907/14. (Same stuff most of you are using.)

I will be making a couple of these per day as orders come in, so if you want one fast, be froggy! Be prepared to wait a week or so for delivery if things get hectic at first!

I don't know what kind of response I'll be seeing, so I'll be making them to order for now.

As always, it's a 100% satisfaction guaranteed 30 day trial period, no arguments, return policy, just like the rest of my tools. I promise you'll be thrilled with the simplicity of using this tool. I know that, because even I am! It is just awesome! 100% cast iron and steel construction throughout.

For right now, to order, just PM me your PayPal addy and I'll send a secure PayPal invoice. There will be a shipping charge of $5.00 by Priority mail. Orders will be filled in the same order they come in, first come, first served.

And now here's the best part of all this:
The price of the Bead Liner Impress $85.00. Told ya it was affordable.

Well, what are you waiting for? Time is money, money is time! Hop on the XPRESS LINER!

Cheers,
Dave
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Last edited by DaveF; 2008-08-07 at 11:26pm. Reason: Name change and new picture of the tool.
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  #2  
Old 2008-07-17, 10:31pm
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Carlabeads Carlabeads is offline
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Wow, Dave - this looks great! I do have a question -

Is this tool able to do different sizes of beads/ tubing, or are you pretty much limited to the 1/4"?
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  #3  
Old 2008-07-17, 10:39pm
DaveF DaveF is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlabeads View Post
Wow, Dave - this looks great! I do have a question -

Is this tool able to do different sizes of beads/ tubing, or are you pretty much limited to the 1/4"?

As pictured, it is only for 1/4 inch. However, I can make a different bottom post for you if you have a need. I have no problem with that. PM me and we'll discuss it.

Thanks,
Dave
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  #4  
Old 2008-07-18, 7:39am
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Dave,

Looks nice Price is great. My question is...the bottom peg...is that just to hold the tubing in place while you're flaring the top side? Or does it help shape the the lip of the rivet as well?

-Yee
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  #5  
Old 2008-07-18, 7:41am
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will you have the ability to do rings and bracelets and pendants on this too?
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  #6  
Old 2008-07-18, 8:02am
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I see that you have pre-drilled holes on the base plate - is it recommended to bolt this down on a work surface to use? Can it be used without bolting/clamping down the device?
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  #7  
Old 2008-07-18, 10:07am
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Yeah! An affordable liner!!!

Mona
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  #8  
Old 2008-07-18, 10:47am
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Wow!! How cool is that and affordable.... Great!
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  #9  
Old 2008-07-18, 12:28pm
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Just to be clear, this is to be used for lining beads to fit Pandora/Biagi/Trollbeads?

I got my tubing from Santa Fe Jewelry Supply. Outside 5.03mm /Inside 4.3mm; Wall 26 ga. Will it work with this tool?
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  #10  
Old 2008-07-18, 1:13pm
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This looks very cool and efficient! What a great size and price...perfect for the smaller (sized) studio where you don't necessarily have a lot of bench room, for sure! I'm thinking those drill holes are to "mount" this fella onto a bench to prevent tipping and to give added leverage - yeah?

Best of luck to you, Dave, with this neat little coring "helper"!

~DeAnne
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  #11  
Old 2008-07-18, 1:23pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theglasszone View Post
This looks very cool and efficient! What a great size and price...perfect for the smaller (sized) studio where you don't necessarily have a lot of bench room, for sure! I'm thinking those drill holes are to "mount" this fella onto a bench to prevent tipping and to give added leverage - yeah?

Best of luck to you, Dave, with this neat little coring "helper"!

~DeAnne
Okay...I'm NOT speaking for Dave about his tool. But since I have one, and have been testing the different parts he tried with it, I will tell you that "I" don't mount it. It fits right in my hand.!!! I keep the tool, with all of my accessories, polishing compound, and hammer in a small cigar box. What I love about that is I can sit at my coffee table and core beads late at night, without having to stay down in my studio. It's something that you can take with you and do at a show, in a motel, or camping if you wanted. Most importantly.....it works! I'm adding a photo of my FIRST attempt at a silver core bead and using Dave's press.
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Last edited by VickieLee; 2008-07-18 at 1:34pm. Reason: Add a photo
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  #12  
Old 2008-07-18, 2:14pm
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Vickie,

Since you've been testing the tool....can you tell us whether you need any other tools to complete the flaring process? Hammer, etc? Or is it an all-in-one type thing?

-Yee
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  #13  
Old 2008-07-18, 2:29pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yeepers View Post
Vickie,

Since you've been testing the tool....can you tell us whether you need any other tools to complete the flaring process? Hammer, etc? Or is it an all-in-one type thing?

-Yee
Hi Yee,
And thanks Vickie, for that beautiful pic! At least folks don't have to look just at my fuggly examples now!

Yee, I'm typing up a response to your earlier question right now, but I wanted to answer this one first since it is important to everyone I'm sure.

The only thing you need is a small hammer to tap down the finished rivet to tighten it on the bead a little if desired. If you want to polish your ends, that is just standard proceedure as always of course. I use the "real thing" for that - jeweler's ruge, available from Rio or any jewelry supply, and a buffing wheel. It won't scratch the glass and makes a mirror bright, knock-your-eye-out finish. However that is not necessary, and many folks skip that step. If you use a small rawhide or plastic hammer, you'll see a nice looking end. The tool is very good about not marring the metal. Both top and bottom are very smooth.

Thanks,
Dave
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  #14  
Old 2008-07-18, 2:51pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yeepers View Post
Dave,

Looks nice Price is great. My question is...the bottom peg...is that just to hold the tubing in place while you're flaring the top side? Or does it help shape the the lip of the rivet as well?

-Yee
Hi Yee,

The peg is there for both reasons. The tip holds the tubing square and centered directly beneath the cone, eliminating most of the finagling needed to get a nice straight plunge. The rest of the peg actually does shape the bead, making domed ends or flat, depending on how you use the tool. I will explain that in detail soon, but for now, here's the basics as best I can explain it in text characters and words::

Flaring is done in two or more passes, depending on the result you want...
Here is how a basic flat end is made:

(1) Place tube and bead, flare top end, A. Bottom end of tube remains unchanged:
.. \ / A
. (||) <-bead
.. || B

(2) Turn over, Flatten A (that happens first since it takes less force to flatten then it does to flare.) Then continue screwing down the cone until B is flared.
. \ / B
. ||
. - - A

(3) Repeat on the other end. (The top end will not flare AGAIN appreciably, at this point, _unless you want it to_, and go past the point where the bottom is just flattened
- - A
| |
- - B
Now you're done with the tool. Lightly tap down both sides to tighten with soft or smooth small metal hammer, as usual. You never use the tool to tighten the rivet. It is too much force.

To make a more domed apperance, you just need to bend the flattened part beyond the horizontal, as in Andrew's nicely illustrated tutorial on the dapping / hammering method. The tool can do that quite well, and accurately, with little or no hammering:

Consider what happens if you go back to step 3 above, and continue the process. (For this example you would have chosen a longer length of tubing, OR a shorter flaring plunge at each step, so you are starting here at the end of step 3, with both ends flattened, but with a longer straight section. ie, there is still a gap between the bead and each flattened end. Lets see if I can illustrate that too:

(3)
._ _ A
.| |
(| |) bead
.| |
- - B
And now, text character graphics don't suffice to show what happens to the top end if you flare it once more... but here's an attempt:

/\ /\
(| |) (Meow..)
.| |
.- -
So, since you have a flattening and flaring combination tool, you are essentially doing the dapping and hammering "past the horizontal" or mushrooming as Andrew calls it, but, you are accomplishing that by flaring the the already flattened end, which has a similar effect to just hammering the edges down. Look again at the black bead, and you'll see the difference. You should see that not only the outer edge of the lip is curved, as it would be by the hammering method, but the INSIDE edge is curved as well...

And, since each turn of the handle moves the cone by a precise, accurate amount, you have a great control advantage, and your results will be repeatable. You are working the entire circumference at once, instead of tap tap tap all around, etc. So it is really fast and you can watch carefully exactly what is taking place as you go. You can get several different styles depending on how far you flare and flatten on each pass. For instance, small increnents say 1/4 turn at a time, with a short tube (say 3 mm extra length) will make a high dome with a thin lip. Doing that with a longer tube will produce a wider lip. On the black bead above I think I did 2 passes with 3/4 or a half turn each, and about 3.6 mm extra length. (ie, about a 9 mm bead and a 12.6 mm tube.) Again, that bead was cored, domed, and cinched in just about one minute.

All this explanation is probably going to make it seem complicated. It isn't that hard, but there is a learning curve as with anything, So I'll try and get some illustrations and pictures of the process step by step up real soon rather than trying to describe it in words only.

Thanks for your question!
Dave
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  #15  
Old 2008-07-18, 3:00pm
DaveF DaveF is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McDuck View Post
will you have the ability to do rings and bracelets and pendants on this too?
Hmm, well that depends on exactly what you mean. I have intended from the outset to make the tool "upgradable" and lend itself to new attachments, etc. such as different tubing sizes, etc. The top cone should handle anything up to and including 5/8 inches, but the bottom would of course need a different attachment for other sizes. I have built in provision for that future upgradablitiy by simply unscrewing the bottom peg and screwing in a different one. That will be the first accessory I'll be offering, but for now, I'll be offering only the 1/4 inch size since that is probably 90 % or more of the preference.

Feel free to email me at dave at artintheround dot etc... With exactly what you would like to see available.

Thanks,
Dave
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  #16  
Old 2008-07-18, 3:12pm
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Actually, 3/16" would be da bomb!
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  #17  
Old 2008-07-18, 3:12pm
DaveF DaveF is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayley View Post
I see that you have pre-drilled holes on the base plate - is it recommended to bolt this down on a work surface to use? Can it be used without bolting/clamping down the device?

Hi there Hayley,

Right on both counts. The holes are for mounting to a bench with a couple of small wood screws. The threads on the cone driver are very fine, only 1.25 mm per turn, so it is quite easy to turn the handle, making it very convenient to hold it in your hand rather than mounting it. That's how I use it myself. You can also just c-clamp it to a table, or alternatively, you can mount it horizontally on two angle brackets like the from a hardware store using two small bolts and nuts. For rapid production use, I'd say a lot of folks will probably prefer that method. Turning the handle takes about the same force as a hand-held can opener, if that helps. Quite easy.

Thanks,
Dave
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  #18  
Old 2008-07-18, 3:14pm
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What kind of saw do you guys recommend for cutting this tubing?

I'm going to order a bit of tubing from Rio and a saw to give it a try but don't know what I should use.

TIA!
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  #19  
Old 2008-07-18, 3:41pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monarae View Post
Yeah! An affordable liner!!!

Mona
Well, I think some folks may feel I have some Karma on that score huh?

LOL,
Dave
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Old 2008-07-18, 3:49pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholebeth View Post
Just to be clear, this is to be used for lining beads to fit Pandora/Biagi/Trollbeads?

I got my tubing from Santa Fe Jewelry Supply. Outside 5.03mm /Inside 4.3mm; Wall 26 ga. Will it work with this tool?
Hi Nichole,

Yes, all three. But, as I recall, you need at LEAST 4.7 mm ID for at least one of them, Pandora I think, to slide over the clasp or the separators, and maybe Biagi too... Check the other posts in the techniuqes forum for that though. What I am sure of is that the 1/4 OD and .218 ID tubing, part # listed above works for all three.

Your tubing ID will be too small to go on this peg. But as I said, I'm pretty sure it is also too small for at least one of the brands as well... Someone correct me or clarify that please if need be.

Thanks,
Dave
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  #21  
Old 2008-07-18, 4:12pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theglasszone View Post
This looks very cool and efficient! What a great size and price...perfect for the smaller (sized) studio where you don't necessarily have a lot of bench room, for sure! I'm thinking those drill holes are to "mount" this fella onto a bench to prevent tipping and to give added leverage - yeah?

Best of luck to you, Dave, with this neat little coring "helper"!

~DeAnne
Hi DeAnne,

Yes, for mounting if desired, but not necessary at all. Mainly for the convenience of freeing your hands. See response to Hayley's post... This little tool can exert much more force than you would ever actually use, with very little effort, whether hand-held or mounted. You'll see just what I mean the first time you try it. As for stability, once you snug the cone, the tube won't move at all as it is locked firmly between the little peg and the cone.

Thanks for the good luck wish!
Dave
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  #22  
Old 2008-07-18, 4:18pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveF View Post
Hi Nichole,

Yes, all three. But, as I recall, you need at LEAST 4.7 mm ID for at least one of them, Pandora I think, to slide over the clasp or the separators, and maybe Biagi too... Check the other posts in the techniuqes forum for that though. What I am sure of is that the 1/4 OD and .218 ID tubing, part # listed above works for all three.

Your tubing ID will be too small to go on this peg. But as I said, I'm pretty sure it is also too small for at least one of the brands as well... Someone correct me or clarify that please if need be.

Thanks,
Dave

Thanks, Dave.

From what I've read here on LE, the Pandora bracelet requires the largest tubing, so I bought a Pandora bracelet so I could make sure my beads fit (before I was sure about mandrel sizes). The tubing I purchased from Santa Fe fits it perfectly, with very little wiggle room around the larger threaded parts.

Edited to add, here are a couple of the threads that discuss tubing sizes for bracelet beads:
http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=90253
http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=96185
http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...pandora+tubing

And all that said, my Pandora bracelet does fit through the tubing, but I haven't riveted a bead yet, so I'm not sure if the process will somehow shrink the opening.
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Last edited by nicholebeth; 2008-07-18 at 4:27pm. Reason: more comments.
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  #23  
Old 2008-07-18, 4:25pm
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Thanks for the reply, Dave! It really looks great and I love the size - I'm 5'2" on a GOOD day after have a life-long affinity for everything wee! The idea of being able to "up" or "down" grade the sizes of those little stands, depending on the size of tube you're working with, is awesome!

~DeAnne in CA
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Old 2008-07-18, 4:46pm
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Thank you Dave, yes I mean like a ring mandrel to hold a ring in place so you can core the top of the bead, same with a bracelet, and a flat plate for a flat pendant which also has a tube sticking straight up out of it. Coring only the top
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  #25  
Old 2008-07-18, 4:48pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McDuck View Post
...flat plate for a flat pendant which also has a tube sticking straight up out of it. Coring only the top
Brilliant, Mary!!! I love this idea!

DeAnne
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Old 2008-07-18, 5:05pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholebeth View Post
Thanks, Dave.

From what I've read here on LE, the Pandora bracelet requires the largest tubing, so I bought a Pandora bracelet so I could make sure my beads fit (before I was sure about mandrel sizes). The tubing I purchased from Santa Fe fits it perfectly, with very little wiggle room around the larger threaded parts.

Edited to add, here are a couple of the threads that discuss tubing sizes for bracelet beads:
http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=90253
http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=96185
http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...pandora+tubing

And all that said, my Pandora bracelet does fit through the tubing, but I haven't riveted a bead yet, so I'm not sure if the process will somehow shrink the opening.
Hi again,

If if fits, it fits. That's the bottom line. Seems I read there is some variation in individual bracelets, but I'm not sure. That's up to you guys to figure out, LOL. I'm going to have my hands full for awhile, based on the response this thread has started. You ought to see my PM's! Iv'e been at the computer nearly all day .

As for the shrinkage, no, it will not shrink appreciably if at all unless you pound hard enough to deform the inside of the hole. Take it real easy and you should be OK on that score. You are very close if not past the minimum size I thought I read, so I can't guarantee that. One thing I can tell you is this tool will NOT shrink the tubing any more than any other method you could use, and most likely less. Just be aware that hammering like the green bead at the top will put you way undersize with that tubing, but spot on right with the 1/4 inch.

Thanks for the links, I'm sure some folks will appreciate your trouble.

Dave
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  #27  
Old 2008-07-18, 5:17pm
DaveF DaveF is offline
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Originally Posted by McDuck View Post
Thank you Dave, yes I mean like a ring mandrel to hold a ring in place so you can core the top of the bead, same with a bracelet, and a flat plate for a flat pendant which also has a tube sticking straight up out of it. Coring only the top
McD,

I think that is all together doable, and I too think it's a fabulous idea. I had already considered the pendant thing, and your ring bead thing is way cool. I would like to work with you on that aspect. I think that app will require a special adaptor for very small tubing, and if you like, we can discuss it by phone. PM me your number and I'll call you. It will be down the road a bit though. I already have a lot on my plate getting this started. But I'll be happy to let you have the first adaptor free and name it after you if appropriate, if you want to have input and do the initial field testing.

I'm also considering a large diameter tubing core that will cmpletely surround and overlap the finger hole of a glass ring. So you would have an actual silver band, lined with glass, if you can picture that. I have always thought that would be way cool, and so much safer since it would be metal against your finger, not glass.

Take care,
Dave
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  #28  
Old 2008-07-18, 5:26pm
McDuck McDuck is offline
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Brilliant, Mary!!! I love this idea!

DeAnne


Aww shucks, thank you! i know, come see me at the gathering, I should have a slew of em
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  #29  
Old 2008-07-18, 6:02pm
DaveF DaveF is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GinnyHampton View Post
What kind of saw do you guys recommend for cutting this tubing?

I'm going to order a bit of tubing from Rio and a saw to give it a try but don't know what I should use.

TIA!
Hi Ginny,

I recommend a miniature pipe/tubing cutter, over any kind of saw. Cutting round stock with a saw is difficult, and having to cut through both sides can also be a pain. But the most important reason, is that your cut must be perfectly square, or your rivet will be egg shaped and the cone won't go in straight. The little tubing cutters at any hardware store are excellent. Get a good quality one. This is not the time to shop at Harbor Freight for this particular item. The price should probably be around 8 to $11.00. Get the TINY one, about 1 inch square, not the full size one for bigger pipes. Also be sure to get the kind that has two rollers in it for the tubing to rest on, not the cheaper model that just has a V shape to hold the tube.

Hope that helps.
Dave
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Old 2008-07-19, 6:47am
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Ellen Black Ellen Black is offline
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This looks great ! How much will the different size pegs cost about?
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