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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2011-05-25, 8:10am
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Jenne Jenne is offline
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Default DH Pandora 2?

Hey all,

I have a bit of Pandora 2 that I've been trying to figure out how to use. From what little I've found, you need to avoid flame striking, and kiln strike and anneal for longer times.

I found this as well: http://www.listen-up.org/kitty/beads/pandora.htm

Honestly, that's just not enough info for me to sit down at the torch and attempt something with this glass.

My kiln garages at 940 and anneals at 950. Could I possibly get nice colors from Pandora 2 in this range, or do I need to figure out how to reprogram my controller? (It's a Fuji PXR3 and confusing is an understatement)

I know most discoveries of how glasses play well are from experimenting, I'm just so unfamiliar with kiln striking and silver glass in general...that I'm hesitant. Should I just put it back on the shelf and wait until I know more?

Advice would be appreciated very much.

Thanks,
Jenne
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  #2  
Old 2011-05-25, 8:39am
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I can't get it to do anything other than stay green. So if you figure out something, please let me know!
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  #3  
Old 2011-05-25, 10:04am
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Elizabeth Beads Elizabeth Beads is offline
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I like it on Copper Green and on Canyon de Chelly. It goes into the kiln looking green and comes out purple. My personal experience is that it does not need extra hot or extra long kiln temps and times. I work mine like a typical striking silver, get it really hot, cool and strike it at least once. I have better results making Pandora beads at the end of a torch session, otherwise it may overstrike. Also keep it away from the heating element. Just my experience, yours may vary.
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  #4  
Old 2011-05-25, 1:43pm
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Default Pandora2 User's Guide

Here is a link to our Pandora2 User's guide PDF. We recommend making a test bead or small ball of Pandora2 to test in your kiln/annealing cycle. Ideally, one would work it hot, allow it to cool, and pop it in the kiln.
Pandora2 User's Guide

Jed at Double Helix
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  #5  
Old 2011-05-25, 4:19pm
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The user's guide and 'test' bead suggestion are fine but came with my glass. I was hoping for some user feedback, similar to the plethora of Clio/Kalypso/etc info out there. Pandora 2 just doesn't seem as...played with?

Thanks Elizabeth for the tip to try it with Copper Green and Canyon de Chelly. Will have to try and see what happens.

I suppose this may just have to be a glass that I experiment a little with...and go from there. I made a few beads this afternoon, but obviously will have no idea what happens until much later.

I guess it's a wait and see...and experiment.
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  #6  
Old 2011-05-25, 7:42pm
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I pretty much do it the way Jed said, except I give it a quick strike before I garage it. I garage and soak at 920, which may be why that works for me, but I'm going to try it without striking it and see what happens.
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  #7  
Old 2011-05-25, 8:42pm
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I have some of the original Pandora, and I've tried everything shy of throwing the rod in front of an 18 wheeler, and all I can get color wise with it is terra cotta with periodic strings of deep blue. I've soaked and annealed it for like 14 hours at 960, after putting it in the kiln still green after cooling a bit, cause I was told "you've got to anneal it a lot longer to get it to strike". Yeah, ummm, terra cotta with random, intermittent blue streaks. I give up on Pandora. I still have about 6 rods that mock me as they gather dust...
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  #8  
Old 2011-05-25, 9:21pm
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The secret to pandora is this. Do not make anything large or pressed. It has to go into the kiln a translucent green. Do not flame strike. These are pandora 2 or light pandora. Same goes for regular pandora.
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  #9  
Old 2011-05-26, 6:11am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiggybubba View Post

The secret to pandora is this. Do not make anything large or pressed. It has to go into the kiln a translucent green. Do not flame strike. These are pandora 2 or light pandora. Same goes for regular pandora.
Those are lovely. I can't even imagine getting anything so nice. What temperature do you anneal and soak at?
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  #10  
Old 2011-05-26, 7:49am
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These are Pandora. They were made at the end of a torch session, struck once and soaked at 920 for 1.5 hours and again at the strain point for 45 minutes.



It may not be the conventional way to work it, but it is what has worked for me.
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  #11  
Old 2011-05-26, 8:46am
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I usually anneal at about 935-950. Probably for about 2 hrs.

This is regular pandora. Again, going in translucent green is the key. Not opaque at all.

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  #12  
Old 2011-05-27, 8:04pm
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I will have to try again with not flame striking and just my regular annealing schedule. I experimented a lil and got pale green boring-ness. I think because they didn't go in translucent and I worked them too long.

I will try again. Thanks for the advice Liz and Leslie. Will let ya'll know if I get anything spectacular
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  #13  
Old 2013-08-28, 10:38am
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Hi there

I know this is an old thread but I thought I'd update it with my recent experiences, because I could get Pandora 2 to do NOTHING for me for over 3 years, but I've finally cracked it, so thought I'd share my discovery in case it helps anyone else.

I THINK what's made the difference is a) not overthinking this glass b) including a ramp up to garaging temperature.

I now make my base bead as normal, apply Pandora 2, and heat until it's hot enough to turn transparent. That's it. Don't fiddle about with it or spend time flashing it in and out of the flame. Now shape or encase, trying to keep it reasonably cool so it doesn't strike in the flame. It should go into the kiln totally transparent - it will look olive green.

When I put the bead in the kiln, I'm garaging at 490c (915f). I let the bead sit there until I'm ready to anneal, when I then ramp UP to 520c (968f), and anneal for 1.5 hours before cooling. I'm pretty sure it's the ramp UP that does the striking, because a few years ago I used to both garage and anneal at 520c (968f) and this glass never worked for me at all.

Here's a couple of my recent makes with it:


IMG_0001 by Alchemy Lampwork, on Flickr


IMG_0060 by Alchemy Lampwork, on Flickr
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  #14  
Old 2013-08-28, 12:09pm
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Now I can't wait to go out & try some Pandora again, thanks for reviving this thread and also for giving your experience with it.
I got a little green & purple when I tried it, but very dark.
I'll try again keeping it transparent/translucent & see what happens.
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  #15  
Old 2013-08-28, 12:43pm
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Just try one bead initially - I went back to it after 3 years, thought "sod it, I'll have one more go before I throw this glas out" and blow me down, that bead actually worked. I repeated it again next time on the torch and it did it again, I now I figure I've cracked it.! Don't overwork it... just heat it till clear, then bung it in the kiln and ramp up. I'll cross my fingers for you xx
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Last edited by helbels; 2013-08-28 at 12:45pm.
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  #16  
Old 2013-08-28, 4:05pm
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yes yes, it is way too easy to overwork the pandoras. shame too, as very gorgeous color can be had, it's just a bitch to do it consistantly.
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  #17  
Old 2013-08-28, 7:54pm
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Ahhh, so it's the shelf maturing that did the trick?
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Old 2013-08-29, 10:28am
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lol Tammy! Yep, that was it!!
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Old 2013-08-29, 3:52pm
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Well, I'm here to confirm that shelf maturing does wonderful things for some glass and Pandora is one of them.
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Old 2013-08-29, 11:19pm
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Well done Tammy, they are a beautiful colour.
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  #21  
Old 2013-08-31, 9:09am
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Gorgeous Tammy!
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Old 2016-07-27, 8:33pm
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Bumping this up, I have some and parts of it seemed to strike better than others.
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