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Studio -- Show us your studio setup

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  #1  
Old 2006-02-28, 11:16am
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Refined with Fire Refined with Fire is offline
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Default Ventilation HELP needed!!!

Hi everyone...

I am at the beginning stages of setting up a 10 x 12 shed as a lampworking studio.

I need to know what to do about ventilation.
I am running one minor burner,
But might upgrade to a bigger torch one day....

My dad has been researching fans,
And he doesn’t understand why I would need a HOOD...
Why not just put the fan above the torch on the wall,
And turn it on...?

I have been trying to explain to him that I need a hood,
I am using a range hood now, at 200CFm,
But from what I have been reading it is NOT enough,
Esp. since it is ducted out thru a flexible shaft for about 6 feet...

So,
I have the chance to get my dad to build me something custom and correct!!!
But I want to do it safely and as CHEAP as possible....
WHAT SHOULD I DO???

Also, once upon a time, I found directions on how to construct a BARLEY BOX.I can’t find them now, anyone have the link???

Thanks so much!

Teresa
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  #2  
Old 2006-02-28, 5:34pm
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Barley box styled fume hood....

http://www.artglassanswers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=90

Dale
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  #3  
Old 2006-02-28, 7:10pm
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From what I understand, you don't actually need a hood. There is a system described in the January 2006 Art Glass Magazine that actually has the vent right in front of the torch. Whit Guarino invented it and in that magazine, there are pictures of the system and even though I haven't read the whole thing I'll assume it has some directions to follow.

There are pictures of Andrea's studio which has 5 or 6 stations for torchwork.

The actual article is about using metals with glass and is written by Pat Frantz.

I bought the Art Glass Magazine just for the article with the ventilation system information, and the magazine itself rocks!!
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Old 2006-02-28, 10:14pm
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It is my understanding that a hood with baffles or a barley box is the most effective way of removing the fumes. The baffles trap the fumes in a confined area, thus preventing any fumes from escaping around the fan. There simply isn't any place for the fumes to go but up and out. This is all dependent on proper set up and fresh air replacement, etc. I'm sure there are MANY set ups that are more than sufficient for any given situation, but a barley box set up is a great way to go!!
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  #5  
Old 2006-03-01, 8:11am
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Some other things you may want to look over....

http://www.pao.gov.ab.ca/health/fumecode/index.html
http://www.tamhsc.edu/departments/ad.../fumehoods.php
http://www.ilpi.com/msds/ref/tlv.html
http://www.lni.wa.gov/Safety/Topics/...ault.asp#Hoods
http://www.energyandpowermanagement....00f932a8c0____
http://www.isgb.org/info/safety/uploads/swsafety.pdf

Dale
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Last edited by Dale M.; 2006-03-01 at 8:14am.
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  #6  
Old 2006-03-01, 9:06am
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I don't know anything about ventilation....But I do know when there is working ventilation. My asthma works up if there isn't. I had no problems in Lucio's studio. Here is a picture of how the ventilation is designed. Does it give you any ideas???? Hope it helps.
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  #7  
Old 2006-03-01, 10:52am
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Cool pic, Heather - it looks like the sucking tentacle creature of doom!

Theresa: Baffles essentially reduce the CFMs you need to have by reducing the face area between the contaminated area and the intake, thereby concentrating the suckage, as it were. A set-up like Lucio's is great because it doesn't have baffles blocking the views across the classroom - he just must have a really strong exhaust fan, probably working out to 500 or 600 CFM per intake. A Barley box is much more enclosed, which can be annoying, but you can get away with only about 300 or 350 cfm of exhaust. By decreasing your exhaust CFMs, you also decrease your need for replacement air volume, which is another advantage (especially when you're conditioning your indoor air!)

Your situation will depend on your layout but since you have a 6' long duct, I'd recommend going a little over what you think you'll need at the intake, 'cause you'll lose some power along the way. So go for at least 400cfm with a full box, 500 with a hood and some baffles and 600+ for a floating intake. But listen to Mike or Dale more than me - everything I know I learned from them!

-Heather
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  #8  
Old 2006-03-01, 11:08am
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I agree. Listen to the gurus or someone who has it and has tested it.

I saw someone once with a large fan in the wall of a shed. I wish I could direct you to them or how they arrived at it's safety. I just remember I was going to go that route but didn't. I got conflicting opinions on if it should be in front of the fan, or at a right angle.

That reminds me. I did see one recently at ISGB's forums sharing their solution on make up air in cold weather regions. There was a fan in the window pulling right in front of the torch. Again, no clue how big it must be to be effective or if it is at all.

I've got a 350 cfm fan in the window in front of my torch for now. It passes the incense test, but I want something installed for a permanent vent. I figure better safe than sorry.

Last edited by Just Nancy; 2006-03-01 at 11:11am.
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  #9  
Old 2006-05-08, 11:02am
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Default So did you get set up??

Teresa,
How is the project going? Did you get your shed set-up??
I was not able to see any pictures on the "Barley Box"...did you go that route for your ventilation??

We are thinking of converting an 8x8 garden shed into a small studio, and I would love any suggestions you might have!
Michelle
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  #10  
Old 2014-07-26, 5:03pm
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Does anyone know what type of flexible ducting that is?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasi View Post
I don't know anything about ventilation....But I do know when there is working ventilation. My asthma works up if there isn't. I had no problems in Lucio's studio. Here is a picture of how the ventilation is designed. Does it give you any ideas???? Hope it helps.
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  #11  
Old 2014-07-27, 6:15am
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http://www.homedepot.com/b/Heating-V...k/N-5yc1vZc4nk
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Old 2014-07-27, 6:18am
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You can also do it this way, just trail off the end to where ever you want it to go, no need to cut a hole in a wall or ceiling that will need to be repaired when/if you move.

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