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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #61  
Old 2013-06-02, 5:02am
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That is so neat you are doing this again, Kitty. Thanks!
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  #62  
Old 2013-06-02, 5:56am
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hmm when I click on your blog link I only get a msg that says "no posts" any ideas what I am doing wrong?

I use Chrome.
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  #63  
Old 2013-06-02, 6:30am
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Hi guys....thank you....the blog wont be up again for a couple of weeks.
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  #64  
Old 2013-06-09, 1:59pm
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Hope the fibro is giving you a break, Kitty. I look forward to finding your blog is back up as that works out for you.
Are you going to repost the tips for 2011 ( he asked hopefully)? I want to let you know it is not possible to express how thankful us newbies are that LE artists are so generous with their knowledge and time. Phill.
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  #65  
Old 2013-06-09, 4:40pm
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You are so kind Phill.....

I will re-post everything from 2011 most definitely....hopefully I can figure it all out now. ha
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  #66  
Old 2013-06-09, 5:23pm
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Can you let us know when you are back.
Thanks, much appreciated.
Franklin
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  #67  
Old 2013-06-09, 7:23pm
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Hi Franklin. I am keeping track of this thread by using the "subscribe to this thread" thingy in the "thread tools" menu at the top of this page. It sends me an email when new posts are made. Neat trick that.
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  #68  
Old 2013-06-10, 1:02am
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I'm having trouble with your blog link, it's only showing me an empty blog, will try again later
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  #69  
Old 2013-06-10, 5:58am
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I am pretty sure that link is broken for the moment. Kitty said she would do she can to bring it back online when she can.

I found these tips in my files and I really dont remember how I got them. They may tide us over for a bit. I will see what else I have squirled away and post them as I can.

CorriDawn posted them as Tips from Shawn in June of 2006.

2005-06-06, 1:16am
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Shawn tips and more

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Handpulled Expensive colors:
Take a rod of Moretti clear and make a base bead the shape you want. Then cover it with the handpulled expensive colors. Then you don’t waste the handpulled colors for the core of the bead that nobody will ever see. Use a transparent color to do this, because it is stiffer and will hold it's original shape better.

Cheater Encased Flowers:
The First flowers :
1: Use a transparent base bead, such as T-031(Pale emerald green). Any color pale or light transparent will work, however avoid clear, it has way too much scum and bubbles in it.

2: Next put on the green stringer for vines, (You can make a cane of about 4 different color greens and then encased the cane in transparent green. It is important to encase it in transparent green, as when green is heated too much, it can turn red and spread like crazy.) Make the green scroll work and use the ends of the stringer to make points and more vine looking.

2a: A little more about making the green cane. Take a rod of Pea Green, heat
up about an inch and a half of the rod, Not till it is molten but just
enough so you can swipe it with other colors and it doesn't crack. Then
take a stringer of Petroleum Green P- 218 and swipe it down the one and a
half inch of the Pea Green Rod. Make 4 even swipes around the rod, in a "x"
Then take a Nile Green P- 214 stringer and fill in, make swipes right next to
the Petroleum green swipes. You can also use Grass Green P-216. You will want
the Pea Green Rod covered in at least two other colors of Green.
*Note* You may have to go back in fill in swipe down the rod of the green
colors, so the whole rod is covered. You can also use Full length rods to do
the swipe with. It may be easier to use the stringers, but if stringers get
away from you use full rods, it will not matter. Next you will need to have a
Transparent Green, Any color Transparent Green will work. I use T-022 Medium
Grass Green. Swipe the Trans Green from the end of the Now colored Pea Green
rod down to the end of the swipes. Do this till you have covered all the
Pastel swipes you have made. Then cover the open end of the Pea Green rod
with the transparent and stick it to the end. It is easy to do this, if you
get a blob of glass heated up on the Trans Green rod, smash it flat on your
marver, and stick it to the end. Now the fun part. Heat up the cane you have
just made. Wait till it is molten and droopy take it out of the flame count
to 7 and begin to pull it out. You want the stringer to be pretty thin. This
is make a LONG stringer, so you will have enough for many flowers!

2b: Turn down your flame, and scroll on the the green cane, it really
doesn't matter how or what it looks like. Leave it raised, untill you have
many scrolls on the bead. Then as you melt it in, Take the end of your green
cane, and pull the scroll work out into points all over the place, push and
pull that green stringer on the bead, until it look like vines. Melt completely in and if needed now would be the time to reshape the bead. If you turn down the heat when you add the cane you will not distort the shape. Do not worry if it doesn't look exact, as you will find when the bead is done, that the "vines" will not stand out a whole lot. Using the colors in the cane as I have and adding the transparent color over the cane, on top of the transparent base bead, will give the vines a great look when it is done. Trust me on this one!

3. Keep your torch turned down for this part also. Next I added an opaque
color in sets of 4 dots all around the bead. In the case of the first flowers
pic, I used Periwinkle. Make them a little further apart then you think you
will want them to be. I make different sizes. l Make a large set first, then
smaller sets on each side of it. You can put your dots anywhere, don't be
concerned about where the vines are. Then I added Transparent Colbalt right
on top of the raised Periwinkle dots. you do not have to add another color on
top, and can make the first set of dots any color you wish.
*Note* I would not try colors like Dark Ivory, or Opal Yellow, as they run
too fast and will not give you sharp petals.
Melt in each flower one at a time, *Note* Good hint here, is to start with
the smallest flowers first, so they don't melt in while doing another larger
set of dots, flowers. Point the tip of your flame right into the center of
the flower.

If anybody is having a hard time with the placement of the 4-5 petals
another tip is to put a little dot the same color as the base bead down
first, then this will give you a guide as where to add the flower petals
around the small dot. When you melt the petals in the dot will disappear, as
it is the same color as your base bead.

4. I then poked the center of each flower, (i use a tungston pick, you can
use a stright rake, a mandrel without bead release on it of course, anythink
you can find that you can make a straght poke with) one at a time. When
they are all poked, I turn the torch back up and melted the poke in flat.
This brings the flower petals down towards the center. Tada that's it! I know
it may sound a little confusing at first, as I tried to give you as much
information as I could think of. Along with alternatives, so if you didn't
have what I used, you could find something else that would work.

You can if you wish poke with a stringer, or cane to get the stamen in the
center. Or you could NOT melt the center in back flush with the bead, and
instead put a small dot of clear, giving you a bubble in the center, like the
second pic I posted.
These beads were not encase, but give the "look" of encased flowers.
You are welcome to encase them after the above mentioned steps. I don't find
it necessary.
I hope this helps you out. If you have any further questions you can drop me
an e-mail or PM any time and I will be glad to help. Please let me know how
they turn out.

I tried many different flowers on and off in the last 4 years, and finally
found ones that seem to work every time. With quick and easy steps.

BTW orange and yellow do not turn out well neither do some of the reds. Then tend to not show up well on a transparent base. Electric Yellow does well, and the coral color does. But I love the periwinkle with colbalt over it. If you place the colbalt dots on top of the periwinkle towards the center of the 4 dots the center of your flowers will turn out to have the great darker color.



Shawn Tip on Colors:
Lt. transparent Pink, rolled in Fuschsia Frit then silver, thin layers of clear and encase in the transparent pink. It also work beautifully if you change it to Lt trans. Blue, and blue frit.

Shawn’s organics:
The organic tabs I make a lot of, very easy. Dark transparent color, wrapped in silver and thin layers of Dr. Ivory and a little bit on Intense black. Melt in and flatten.



how to get even dots:
Heat the tip of the stringer into a point. Then when you heat the spot on the bead you can barely touch the stringer to the bead to get a tiny dot straight on the other sdie of the first dot, by looking the mandrel stright in the eye. You are placing a tiny dot, so when you look at the dot straight on if you have your dot too high or too low you can cover up the tiny dot with the bigger size dot. Basically a marker to show you where the other side of the bead is.


How to get the Raku to POP
It work well on reactive colors. I have used Dr. Ivory, Copper green, reg. and red. Opal tellow I love it on. But first time I think you should start off with back.
Why Black you ask? Because You will be able to see all the colors and the reaction very quickly as the bead cools.

Use the largest size frit you have. I find the best reactions with the #2 size and the Chunks I pull into stringers. If anybody needs instructions on how to pull chunks into stringers let me know I have it marked in my favorites and will post the link.

Make a round bead out of the black, Moretti Veterfound doesn't matter.
Heat up the bead and roll it in the #2 size frit. Now you have to put a lot of heat back into the bead. Melt the frit in and then heat it some more, heat it up and let the frit start to swirl,spinning your mandrel so you don't loose the round shape. Then keep swirling while you take it out of the flame, and touch the bead to something brass. (I do not have a brass stump shaper so I use the side of one of my Zoozii presses) Flat the bead on both sides. Let the bead cool and look at the colors if you like the colors and they "came out to play with you" Then bring it back into the back edge of the flame to get rid of the chill marks. If you got mostly orange and tan, then reteat the bead, and try again. When I say the bead needs to be really hot I am saying that it need to be so hot and motlen that it may fall off the mandrel if you don't spin it fast enough, The frit will look almost clear with a darker center.

Most of the ones I did, I first flattened with my BBQ mashers and then touched it to the brass very quickly. I have nevre had to use the ice water some people mentioned to get the colors to work. The colors will come ut by the rapid heating and cooling. You can do it over and over again till you get the look you want.

I have not had that great of luck with the fine frit the #00, but I did get some colors not the whole bead to turn colors.

When useing the stringer. I pulled thin stringer out of the chunks. Made a base bead out of black. then I made beads with dots, some with scroll work, some with lines Etc. I turned down my propane, way down when applying the stringer. It like the oxygen and the cooler flame. Then melted in the stringer, and flattened with my BBQ masher, and touched to the brass. Put the bead in the back of the flame and flashed the chill marks off.

*Note* once the colors come out, do not worry about putting your bead back in the flame, the deep colors will not go away. I have never lost the purples or blues and pinks by reheating the bead.


Copper and Coppered Stringer:
the coppered stringer reacts with any of the Ivory glass, the coral glasses and any other that contains sulfer. The green color will change depending on how you use the stringer. It goes through the green to blues, reds, oranges, purples ect. totally dependant on how the glass is heated. in all of the colors however there will always be a black line around them when put on sulfer glass. the coppered stringer sometimes changes colors in one area more than another so one can get bands of the color change as well. the green is the coolest wored color- more heat and it goes to blues, more heat and it goes to purple tones, after that is red, if it starts going too orange you are risking losing the color effect completely. There is also ALOT of copper in the copper stringer. much more than there ussually is in the average glass. consider all the results one can get from the different copper glasses ( the copper green, copper blue and copper red) the color difference on most of those is due to the different heat they have been subjected to. I also assume that the more one heats the copper stringer the more of the copper comes to the surface. Definately the best reds are from HUGE amounts of copper at intense heats.
The leaf copper one can burnish on to a bead or vessel- flash it a bit and immediately encase- this will cause a whole galaxy of ultra tiny bubbles in a fine layer that asically stays put just in the spots where the copper was- I often use the copper foil between paper to punch out a design to do that with and the bubbles make the picture- fast and intense looking. works well with the sun, moon,flower and star punches in the scrap booking area as well as the wild patterned sissors that are available ( scallops ect) if the copper is mixed in rather than flashed it has color reactions. very versitile stuff. Aluminum leaf also has intense results but it tends to go to the surface sometimes as a metalic and the copper never does. ( at least not on me)

More Color Tips (Copper Green):
If you put dots of clear on CG and melt them in the dot will turn pink. Of course you can do it with swirls scroll work lines what ever. But it will turn a bautiful pink color when melted flush into the bead. If you use the Red Copper Green the dots will turn Yellow.



Color Tips (Mosaic Green):
There is no intense black in the bead. Just done on the end of the mandrel so only one hole, and a base bead of Dr Ivory and tiny dots of MG. It will spread like crazy and web by heating with lots of heat.
If you use a lot of it, it will overpower the bead, so make tiny dots and watch it do the magic.


Random Color Tip:
opal yellow, silver foil and rubino and copper green


Wonky Beads at a Show:
I also put out a bowl of beads, that didn't quiet make the cut into the jewelry. I give them away to the kids, as I have so many of them. But what I find is if I can give them to the kids, they look and look trying to decide which one they want. Only one per child, and no you can't take one for your invisible friend or brother who is not there. So as the kids are happy as can be getting a free, bead their parents will be looking longer, and therefore I have more time to try and sell them something. Plus some of them want to buy something as I am usually the only one giving away anything for free.


Stringer and surface decoration:
When putting surface decoration on a bead with stringer, Sometimes your first dots or stringer scroll work will melt in, right? To avoid this, after you make your base bead, tap your bead on my marver to make sure it tinks ( not tink as in, bead cracking) knowing it is cool enough to add your design on top without melting it in. You will melt in the first part of your design because when your stringer touches the hot bead, it starts to melt too quickly.


Bubbleless Transparent Glass:
You know how your transparent glass bubbles very easily? Well most of us know it will help it you pull off the first bit of each rod, where it has scratches in the glass form where they cut it. But if you do that then let it cool, and heat the transparent glass from the side of the flame, slowly, you will get a clean transparent color with little or no bubbles.


Pulling Stringers:
Pulling stringer, Most people try and pull from side to side (width). Use gravity, and when you first start to pull do it lengthwise, flipping it to keep the bigger blob at the top letting gravity to help you to get a nice long even pull.

Twist count to 5 and then twist and pull, in oppsite directions.


Moons:
Was talking to someone today about making landscape beads. So thought of this tip. To make a cresent moon. (if your background bead color is blue) make a white dot with your stringer, melt it flush with the bead, then take the same blue as your background color and make a smaller dot on the white dot, but off center. Melt in flush, and what you are left with is a wonderful cresent moon on your bead. Alternate the color on top of the white to match your basebead color.

Color Tip (Pale Lavender):
Transparent base bead of Pale Lavendar (very small)
rolled in Ruby Gold and melted in (twice)
rolled in silver and burnished well
added threads of the pale lavender without melting in the silver
melt in and shape
encase in the pale Lavender


easy frit.
Take a beer mug, or a similar heavy glass, fill it up with ice water, put a coffee filter in it so the bottom of the filer is touching the water. Secure the filter with a rubber band around the glass. Heat up your rod, nice big molten glob and dunk in the water. Then all you have to do is take out the coffee filter, and let the frit dry. Works like a charm.

Pull the coffee filter so that some of it is around the outside of the beer mug, then secure the coffee filter with a rubber band to the outside of the glass, so it doesn't fall to the bottem of the beer mug.
Next light your torch, then slowly heat up your glass rod, with your torch, get a nice big motlen glob of glass on the end of your rod, and dunk the rod in the coffee filter, to where it hits the ice cold water.






Whimsical Eyes:
Make your white dot, always make the one that is furtherest away from your hand first, as you will be able to judge the one that is closest better to get it the same size. Once you have your 2 white dots, smash them flat. Then add a transparent color on top, maybe light topaz if you want to keep with the color scheme, or some with blue and green eyes would be cute. Melt the transparent in a little but not too much you want it to still be raised. then add your black puplis on top. Add the black very last, right before you put it in the kiln, and melt it down flush to the transparent color.


Bead Features:
Draw out a bunch of eyes with the eyeballs going in different directions. They can show so much expression on your beads. Looking up- looking down crossed eye. etc. then when you are mainking the bead you have an idea of which way the eyes should go with the sculpture work as the eyes will match the bead. Also we made some big beads, as you said, but put as many different noses on them as would fit. then we made one for lips, and mouths, some with teeth, some with tounges etc. When I make my sculpture beads, I get out these beads, so i can decided which nose, mouth fits the critter I am making. Sometimes it is hard to decide in the middle. Most of the time I draw mine out on paper first. But sometimes it just happens when I am going for something else, and it doesn't work then I turn it into a critter.


Tip for pulling filigrana into stringer:
I have a bunch of filigrana, and had no idea how to pull it into stringer. If you want to make letters or write on your beads it is wonderful to pull out black or any color into a thin stringer and then when you melt it in the clear melts in completely leaving you with a thin black line.
So how do you pull the dang rod out without messing up the thin color inside the clear?
Heat the rod up and down in the flame, do not let it melt onto itself. Till the rod is hot about an inch and a half take your tweezers and pull the end of the rod into a stringer.
it was a duhh moment for me. You may have already know this but I kept trying to melt it onto itself and pull it out, or attach two rods to it together and pull it out, neither of which works.
Now I have a use for all the wonderful filigrana I have.

More on Organics:
Materials needed:
Dark Ivory
Silver Foil- Yes, leaf could be used
Transparent Aqua, OR, Teal, Emerald green, Grass green
Intense Black Stringer
Marver or BBQ Mashers

1. Make a base bead out of Dark Ivory. Since this bead seems to look better in a tabby shape make sure you have enough base bead of the ivory in order to flatten in the end. An egg shape to start with will end up looking better than a dounut shape.

2. Roll base bead of dark Ivory with the silver foil, and burnish the silver in well. This can be achived by running the silver on your marver to make sure it is stuck well to the bead. Do NOt melt in the silver.

3. Now pick up your color of transparent glass, in the pic I showed I used dark Aqua stringer and the other bead is done with Dark Grass Green stringer. Make swipes with your stringer right on top of the base bead with the silver still on th bead. The amount of color depends on you. But I do suggest that you add more then you think you need.

4. Step four is optional try it with and without. Thread on intense black stringer. To thread on stringer, you hold the bead, (still with the silver on and the transparent glass) behind the flame, your black stringer in the tip of the flame till it is molten, not touch the bead to the stringer and twirl the mandrel, The intense black stringer will go onto the bead in little threads.

5. Melt all in. You may want to use your marver to spread the transparent glass, as it will melt slower then the other colors and so it does not all end up in one place. let the bead cool slightly. Heat only one side of the bead and flatten on your marver. Now let that side cool and heat the other side and smash it flat on your marver. Or if you have BBQ masher just flatten it that way.

Same bead different way:

Step 1 is the same

2. Add silvered ivory stringer to the bead, and the transparent stringer, and intense black stringer threaded on the bead. Melt all in at the same time. Flatten the bead as directed above. This will give you a slightly different look, as the silver will not cover the entire bead, and only where you decide to put the SIS.

Variations: Add goldstone stringer, topaz and intense black.

Just add intense black and heat low in the flame,
the black will give you the "webbing effect"

Try on a black base, adding silver and Dark ivory
along with transparent glass.

Start with a transparent glass, add SIS, (intense black if you choose)
Or transparent glass, roled in silver then add ivory and intense black

From Fay:
Quick directions on Goddess Bead:

1. start by using a transparent...black....it is much easier to do it with
2. make a long bicone
3. flatten out
4. use razor or knife and cut in to crease where thighs would be
5. can add glass for belly
6. shape belly and then poke belly button with pic and V crease
7. butt...add dots to form butt
8. shape and define by cutting between cheeks and around
9. add breasts one at a time...shape...can add nipple dots
10. redefine as needed
Done or you can add a neck and head

*keep flashing bead to keep warm at all times...






Wine Stopper (I forgot who posted this!):
White base
splotches of Trans amber
splotches of clear
Ocelot spots...get a good THIN covering, NOT real thick, let the transparents peek through.
DO NOT REDUCE...gets dark real quick.
LOTS of OXYGEN! Oxygen is the ocelots best friend.
Another really pretty frit for stoppers is the copper blue.
Ivory Base
Silver Foil-DON"T melt it in
small amounts of trans. teal and aqua (if you want it bright, use lots)
rolled in copper blue.


More Wine Stoppers:
Another really easy, neutral color for a stopper.
Ivory Base W/ white swirls and or splotches
rolled in silver foil, burnished well
rolled in Apricot Sorbet Frit.
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  #70  
Old 2013-06-10, 6:07am
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Ok. Further down in this file I found a link from Shawn that may have pictures..... Maybe I should follow that myself before I post it. BRB .. Yup works fine . Here is the original entry;

2007-06-08, 9:02pm
Shawn T
Surrounded by Trouble Join Date: Jun 05, 2005
Location: Alabama
Posts: 14,177



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by angie
Has anyone tried this?
ive just tried it and i just get pale green

Angie it is the opposite of what is typed there is a newer thread in which all the typo's are fixed and pic have been added.
This new thread is actually one I posted so I know it is correct.

Here it is: http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ighlight=Shawn
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  #71  
Old 2013-06-10, 6:11am
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I really can not express how grateful those of us with no/limited experience in lampwork are for all of the help, patience and coaching we get here. Thank you CorriDawn and Thank you Shawn. Phill.
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  #72  
Old 2013-06-10, 6:22am
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Oh yes, I must not miss Thanking you, Kitty, specificaly. It really is a big deal to me how generous you are.

Dont let the fibro get you down. I am thinking of you wrapped in healing white light.
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  #73  
Old 2013-06-10, 6:24am
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Man, talk about hi-jacking a thread.. We now return control of your tv ... (1960's Outer Limits tv refference).
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  #74  
Old 2013-06-10, 9:30am
fsankar fsankar is offline
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Wonderful. Thanks. The tracking of the thread worked well.
Franklin
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  #75  
Old 2013-06-10, 1:08pm
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OMG Kitty. My wife follows your etsy page. You guess how many beads she wants, I Dont want to.
Are they all Double Helix and is that silver leaf under Aether clear? ( that is, the ones that look like DH and the ones that look like Opals ). Nice work on all of them. PHill
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  #76  
Old 2013-06-10, 8:16pm
Pamela Pamela is offline
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I am new to this and was excited about the new tip a week blog. Unfortunately I can not get the blog to open for me. Does anybody have any idea why.
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  #77  
Old 2013-06-10, 8:46pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedslug View Post
I am pretty sure that link is broken for the moment. Kitty said she would do she can to bring it back online when she can.
^^
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