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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #91  
Old 2010-12-25, 11:01pm
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Someone just sent me a private message asking who teaches the flower implosion and I'm not sure if my reply was sent. so I will repeat here what I said. I haven't taken a lesson I have just read what is here and looked at youtube and lots of practise. but John K teaches but I don't know how to get a hold of him. Someone here might know how to get a hold of him.
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  #92  
Old 2010-12-26, 6:53am
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John Kobuki is a member here:

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/member.php?u=8737

He also has a webpage

http://www.kobukiglass.com/

Or, alternately, you can find him on the Melting Pot as well:

http://www.talkglass.com/forum/member.php?u=1102
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  #93  
Old 2010-12-26, 8:37am
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Yea, I think he has his class schedule on his website.
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  #94  
Old 2010-12-26, 10:02am
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Sweet thanks hope the lady that emailed me is checking.
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  #95  
Old 2011-01-04, 11:10pm
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Here is a wierd shaped one I did today...lol
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  #96  
Old 2011-01-05, 5:48am
JesterGlass JesterGlass is offline
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Deb - One of the darker cobalts (5 or 6) over borostix white for the petals, Experimental Green #5 over borostix white for the leaves.

I strongly recommend a class from John K. Getting to watch him work and pick his brain was the highlight of AGI for me last summer (once I got the brains off of my shrimp fork).
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  #97  
Old 2011-01-05, 7:16am
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Another active teacher of flower implosions is Dan Grumbling (DanG on here)

He's teaching for the second time at Indy Flame Art Glass Studio (Indianapolis) in February. I'm not sure if there are any seats left but there may be.
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  #98  
Old 2011-01-05, 9:10am
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Thanks for the info guys I would love to take a course from both those guys but financial its just not going to happen this year maybe next year. I love your little gem Steven.
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  #99  
Old 2011-01-06, 9:20am
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Thanks Deb! Got alot of PPP to do especially on the bail part...lol
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  #100  
Old 2011-01-06, 9:26am
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Wow everyone!!
Those are just beautiful.
I am having a really hard time getting implosions down
Mine look terrible!
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  #101  
Old 2011-01-06, 9:27am
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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The bail is one of the hardest parts.
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  #102  
Old 2011-04-16, 10:09am
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Ok I have been playing around with some implosions and I got a hold of some dense white and decided to play and resurrect this thread.
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  #103  
Old 2011-04-16, 11:02am
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nice!
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  #104  
Old 2011-04-16, 10:32pm
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They look lovely Deb.
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  #105  
Old 2011-04-17, 4:56am
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Wow very nice.
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  #106  
Old 2011-04-17, 7:21am
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Thank I used the same white to do some retichello yesterday and I think they turn out nice too. I will take pictures tonight.
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  #107  
Old 2011-04-17, 10:29am
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What exactly is the 'dense white' you used? I think I have at least 5 different whites in the rack.
Thanks, PJH
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  #108  
Old 2011-04-17, 6:33pm
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Jamie from Sleepy creek was kind enough to through a couple of ns star white in with some boro bars I bought from him (her). That is what I used, there was a little bit of bubbling when I first started heating it but after it was hot i pulled the gather into a stringer and it was good, I was still careful with the flame on it until it was melted in but it worked nicely in.
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  #109  
Old 2011-04-18, 9:00am
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Another flower implosion with ns star white.
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  #110  
Old 2011-04-18, 9:05am
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Just want to see if this picture is clearer.
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  #111  
Old 2011-04-18, 10:46am
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Very pretty Deb! You are really getting the hang of them!

For implosions, I really like Asian White (China white... each vendor calls it something different). You have to smoosh and swirl it around a bit in the flame before you pull it into a stringer. Then it is smoooooth. No bubbling. Very dense color. If you PM me your address, I can send you part of a rod to play with.
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  #112  
Old 2011-04-18, 11:47am
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Thanks Deb. I like the asian white best. Mine is called White Tiger from Trautman IIRC. Maybe I'll have to revisit NS Star White a bit.
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  #113  
Old 2011-04-18, 4:37pm
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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That would be sweet Cori thanks. I will pm you.
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  #114  
Old 2011-04-18, 8:57pm
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Wow, what fantastic work! Every time I lay stringer on my maria and then heat it is shrinks into dots, which gives me 'finger' implosions no petals. I seem to only get big dots or little dots. What am I doing wrong?
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  #115  
Old 2011-04-19, 5:20am
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Make sure A) Your stringer isn't too thin (2-3 mm is probably good to learn with, paperclip or thinner is probably too thin) B) Your maria isn't too cold and C) that you lay the stringer on nice and hot (it should be soft).

If you want I could probably show you how I do some stuff too. Sometimes just seeing it in realtime helps.
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  #116  
Old 2011-04-19, 5:50am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate-d View Post
Wow, what fantastic work! Every time I lay stringer on my maria and then heat it is shrinks into dots, which gives me 'finger' implosions no petals. I seem to only get big dots or little dots. What am I doing wrong?
Use more pressure when laying the stringer on. You want it firmly attached before you start melting it in. If it's not, it will draw up into a ball when you heat it.
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  #117  
Old 2011-04-19, 8:10am
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Yup what they said, if I think it might shrink up on me I will also give it a little press on the marver before putting on the next petal then flash the face of the marinia where the next line will go. I will use my pick to press the end part of the stringer because that is where I get the most shrinkage I will do this before I lay on the next petal also. some flowers take along time to do but spending the time at this point will gives you better results. Stringer control is one of the hardest but most rewarding technique to learn because you use it with everything. I practice daily with a warm up piece laying random lines on a clear rod and make it into a pendant. The trick with laying on stringers is to find the right spot near the flame, not in the flame. You want the stringer soft but not soft like a cooked noodle. What I want to try today is some dense white (ns star white) dots that I will pull each one with the pick I am hoping it will look kinda like a daisy.
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  #118  
Old 2011-04-19, 10:32am
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I'll give these suggestions a try and see what I come up with, my dots implode pretty well so once I get some stringer control things should get better. And Chris, I'd definately take you up on your offer some time.
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  #119  
Old 2011-04-23, 11:32am
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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How is the stringer control coming Nate. When I was playing around the other day I was having trouble with a line not wanting to lay down proper and it was because my marina or base to what I was drawing on was not hot enough. Try a little experiment in laying down a line of color on a cool clear rod you will see it doesn't lay down proper and wants to curl up. Then preheat your clear rod and try again the color will lay down better. When I am taking awhile to put a design on a piece I will flash that next spot to receive color just before I apply the stringer giving the base a shot of heat and the stringer will stick to the surface better.
Anyways I made this marble out of china white which is my most favourite white for implosions and stringer work. It needed very little mixing before it was pulled into a very smooth dense stringer.
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  #120  
Old 2011-04-23, 3:31pm
nate-d nate-d is offline
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Deb those flowers are amazing! What angle do you hold your maria when making your petals. I've been holding mine at a pretty steep angle sometimes close to vertical but don't tell anybody and I think that is why I don't get much petal. My stringer contol is getting much better since I started using the outside of the flame instead of right next to the tip. LOL What's this I hear about mixing? What is it and how do you do it?
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