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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #121  
Old 2011-04-23, 9:48pm
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Sometimes it's helpful to heat a color, mix it and twist it up like crazy, ball it up and then pull down into a rod again. It can eliminate air bubbles etc, particularly with sintered glass like borostix which is essentially powder which has been heated and molded rather than pulled from a molten gather. (correct me if I'm wrong here people)
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  #122  
Old 2011-04-23, 10:06pm
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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I don't know mush about it other than gently heating the color and allowing it to form a gather then punty up another handle and heat, twist. smosh until bubbles disappear, then I pull into rod or stringer.
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  #123  
Old 2011-04-24, 9:47am
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I have just reread this thread from the start...Yahoo!

deb tarry, you have made marvelous progress since November. Your white flower pendent w/black background is stunning.

I can see from your posts that the rest of you are progressing by leaps and bounds. Great work.

I recently bought Ron Bearer's tutorial. It is excellent by the way. In it Ron lays out many color combinations and how to apply them as well as different stringer construction methods. And the thought occurred to me that DanG is not only a master soft glass implosion marble maker but his color combinations are superb. I would love to see a post by DanG relating his philosophy of color selection and use in his marbles.

So come on gang, lets coerce DanG into revealing some 'secrets'! How about it Dan?
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  #124  
Old 2011-04-24, 10:32am
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Thanks for the compliment I have put allot of time and thought into this technique and feel I am growing as an artist with every piece.
Hey DanG how about a post and some thoughts.
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  #125  
Old 2011-04-24, 8:35pm
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Default Deb beutiful

What oxy concentrator and torche do you use?

Thanks
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  #126  
Old 2011-04-24, 9:27pm
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I have a lynx with two 5 lpm linked together. The larger pendants are painfully slow to implode but to hook the torch up to tanked oxygen is to expensive for me (we pay 70.00 per tank here in the Shuswap) so I just plant my elbows and 'let it melt'.
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  #127  
Old 2011-04-25, 8:27am
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A couple of pansy's for me and a columbine.
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  #128  
Old 2011-04-25, 9:38am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deb tarry View Post
I have a lynx with two 5 lpm linked together. The larger pendants are painfully slow to implode but to hook the torch up to tanked oxygen is to expensive for me (we pay 70.00 per tank here in the Shuswap) so I just plant my elbows and 'let it melt'.
Wow....Last week I filled my S and it cost me $18.00.
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  #129  
Old 2011-04-25, 9:43am
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We have a saying around here 'thats the price of living in paradise' lol.
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  #130  
Old 2011-04-25, 10:23am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryC View Post
Wow....Last week I filled my S and it cost me $18.00.
Must be nice. I got two fills last Friday and it cost me $94.
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  #131  
Old 2011-04-25, 7:49pm
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Nate I didn't answer your question about angle of marina sorry. Anyway I hold I it almost straight up and down at least at a very steep angle, and I have the flame hitting the edge of the marina. Have you heard the marina described as at tire and your flame hits the tire tread. But I also hit the front and the back a bit because if the centre is not hot the petals won't move in then up into the clear gather. As I am heating the edges they almost start to curl and form a cup which I press onto the marver every time it looks about 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep flattening it abit. I keep doing this until the petals or lines are up into the clear, and the dot or lines have condensed down into the middle of marina. Its kinda hard to explain I will try and get some pics to show you more of what I mean.
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  #132  
Old 2011-04-25, 9:08pm
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Here are some recent implossions of mine. I use a pretty steep angle too, I was wondering if that was the problem. I use the same technique, I guess P,P,P. I tried one flower and it is very disturbing to look at. LOL It might give nightmares so I will refrain from posting it.



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  #133  
Old 2011-04-26, 7:22am
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steep angle is good you just have to melt a bit then marver, melt a bit then marver, you can acually se the petal start creeping up into the gather. If you push to hard on the marver you will flatten out too much. Try getting everything super hot and see how it moves down. then push a little bit then do it again. maybe five to ten times.
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  #134  
Old 2011-04-27, 7:28am
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Default pics of my first floral attempt

Ok. on the smaller one I used a thin stringer 1-2mm and on the bigger one I used 2-3mm stringer. On the larger one there are small "petals" underneath the ones that are seen from the top. I can only see the small "petals" from the side. The smaller one it seems like the ends of the lines flowed toward the center but not the middle, not a bad effect I guess, just not the one I wanted. When I made the maria, smashed it pretty thin and heated the face before applying stringer, applied the stringer and marvered well each one. Melted at a steep angle and fast. Still can't seem to get the nice solid petal that I see in the pics above. Thanks for any helpful suggestions.

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  #135  
Old 2011-04-27, 7:29am
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Oh yeah, I'm wondering if maybe I shouldn't melt in smooth? Maybe it is better to leave the lines a little raised before I start imploding?
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  #136  
Old 2011-04-27, 7:35am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate-d View Post
Oh yeah, I'm wondering if maybe I shouldn't melt in smooth? Maybe it is better to leave the lines a little raised before I start imploding?
It won't matter. They will melt smooth as you implode them anyways.

As for the petals going transparent... that's a result of the glass you used. Some glass goes transparent as it's thinned out. Try making some petals with something like Blue Moon. It will stay nice and solid no matter how thin it gets. Make sure that you get nice petals doing that to rule out some other cause (although I'm 99% sure it's the white causing it).
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  #137  
Old 2011-04-27, 8:49am
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cool, I'll give that a try, and note this effect because it looks like it will serve a usefull purpose some other time. I was disgusted when I looked at the little one when I was finished, but it's kinda growing on me. LOL
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  #138  
Old 2011-04-27, 8:51am
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LOL. Chris has told me to stay away from white and use blue moon only 4-5 times. I need to hear it like 6-7 before it sinks in.
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  #139  
Old 2011-04-27, 8:59am
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I agree some white are denser than others I have been using china white which can be made into a fairly thin stringer and imploded without now thinning. This pendant is made with china white and as you can see its dense. the next ones are a boro bar yellow which thinned out. It works in this application because it gives the illusion thin petals which some flowers have.
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  #140  
Old 2011-04-27, 9:51am
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Nice. I love both of these. Gotta work more on my implosions
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  #141  
Old 2011-04-27, 11:51am
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Nice progress Nate. May I suggest that you try using blue moon for your implosions?
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  #142  
Old 2011-04-27, 12:35pm
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hee hee ya blue moon
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  #143  
Old 2011-04-27, 12:55pm
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  #144  
Old 2011-04-27, 2:33pm
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You guys are making my day. Our water well needed work yesterday, the regulator for the propane torch failed and now the septic field is backing up. So its nice to come online here and get a chuckle. Thanks and by the way have you tried blue moon Nate?
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  #145  
Old 2011-04-27, 3:08pm
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Implosions.....Blue Moon.....'nough said
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  #146  
Old 2011-04-28, 7:31am
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Here is the bue moon "flower". Looks like I have the beginnings of what will one day become flower petals. LOL

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  #147  
Old 2011-04-28, 8:34am
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Yup you do! and if you had continued imploding the bottom of the petals would have kept shrinking and narrowing down to form what would be the stem of the flower. Here are a few I did yesterday out of china white and some boro bar colors.
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  #148  
Old 2011-04-28, 9:10am
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Wow. Blue moon sure looks nice imploded. I will post more later when I'm not on my phone.

Edit: Like Deb said, if you had continued to implode, the petals would have gradually joined together into a stem. There are some other methods which will give you different results: Brad's tutorial here for example: http://www.anakinsglasseye.com/tutorial-implosion2.htm
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Last edited by Bunyip; 2011-04-28 at 10:24am.
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  #149  
Old 2011-04-28, 12:02pm
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I'll definately check out that link, and implode more. I thought I over imploded, now I'm thinking it might be difficult to over implode.
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  #150  
Old 2011-04-28, 12:35pm
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Over implode? Just keep heating and stop when the desired result is reached. Only thing you have to watch out for is that you dont allow the void on the bottom to close up and trap air. If you are working at a shallow enough angle and the center is hot enough that should not be an issue.
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