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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions. |
2012-12-13, 7:10pm
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 16, 2012
Posts: 34
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Striking deeply encased ns double amber purple?
Hi guys! Hoping some of the knowledgable peeps here might be able to help me figure this out. I have been doing some implosion mibs with ns double amber purple and I'm just not getting the purples inside that I can pull on the surface. It always comes out kind of whitish with a barely there pinkish tint inside. Any tips on getting those vibrant colors double amber purple is known for when its deeply encased in clear? Thanks!!
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2012-12-27, 9:30am
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ManBearPig
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Join Date: Jun 28, 2005
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 8,540
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There is no real solution. You have to keep the double amber purple hot and clear the entire time. If it cools off too much, you get white/gray/tan. Once that happens there is no fixing it. It's hard to use inside a marble because there is no way to keep the center of the marble that hot.
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2012-12-27, 10:55am
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Save the Numbats
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Join Date: Jul 23, 2005
Location: The Arctic
Posts: 577
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It's only going to strike if it's not reduced, or already reduco-struck to hazed. It's difficult with the highly saturated colors like DAP. I suggest using something less so, like Double Passion or Loki's Lipstick.
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2012-12-27, 11:30am
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ManBearPig
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Join Date: Jun 28, 2005
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 8,540
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Solara also works well for me in situations like this. You have to work it to get it past orange, but when it does get there, it gets some nice pinks and purples
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2012-12-28, 7:43pm
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 16, 2012
Posts: 34
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Cool, thanks guys! I've never use solara. Got some Loki though. Love Loki!
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2012-12-29, 6:39am
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Now part of the Dark Side
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Join Date: Jul 02, 2010
Location: North Central PA
Posts: 966
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When I make jelly fish, I use DAP for the bell, when I make the bell I make sure that the DAP goes clear and to burn off the haze. I let it cool until it just starts to self strike then I encase in clear. The act of encasing in clear will cause the DAP to finish striking. This is not technically a deep encasement so YMMV.
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Roy
Hot glass does not crack.
Unless it is glowing and drippy, hot glass looks like cold glass.
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2012-12-29, 3:31pm
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Join Date: Mar 16, 2012
Posts: 34
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Thanks dragon! I think it could still apply. I just need to keep the haze off of it while I implode I think... Work it ragin hot and kiln strike.
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2012-12-31, 5:36am
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Now part of the Dark Side
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Join Date: Jul 02, 2010
Location: North Central PA
Posts: 966
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You could also try encasing your AP and DAP and pulling into stringer. I'd do a tubing encasement to avoid the hazing.
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Roy
Hot glass does not crack.
Unless it is glowing and drippy, hot glass looks like cold glass.
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2012-12-31, 9:28am
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Join Date: Mar 16, 2012
Posts: 34
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Good idea! I've never done a tube encasement. How is that done?
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2012-12-31, 12:24pm
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Now part of the Dark Side
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Join Date: Jul 02, 2010
Location: North Central PA
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You seal off the end of a piece of boro tubing, that is just a little bigger than the rod you are going to encase. Cut off a piece of the color you want to encase and drop it down the tube. Heat from the bottom, so you don't trap any air, and work your way up to the top. Punty on to the bottom and pull into the size stringer you want.
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Roy
Hot glass does not crack.
Unless it is glowing and drippy, hot glass looks like cold glass.
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2013-01-03, 5:20pm
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 16, 2012
Posts: 34
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Oh cool, gonna have to try that!
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2013-01-04, 7:34am
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Pyromaniac
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Join Date: Jun 27, 2006
Location: Out there on the interwebs
Posts: 1,784
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Even if you burn the haze off, encased DAP can still haze up if you overwork it. The key, surprisingly, seems to be keeping it hot enough, as noted above.
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Chris Scala
Fortune Cookie say, "When things go wrong, don't go with them!"
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2013-01-04, 8:03am
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Pyromaniac
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Join Date: Jun 27, 2006
Location: Out there on the interwebs
Posts: 1,784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonharper
You seal off the end of a piece of boro tubing, that is just a little bigger than the rod you are going to encase.
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I do this a little differently - YMMV, this is just how I do it:
I don't seal the end of the tube, I leave both ends open and insert the rod into the tubing, leaving some sticking out. I seal the tubing to the rod at that end and work down the tube... with convenient handles on either side to hold, making it easy to pull down once I have sealed everything together. I usually just do a few inches of rod at a time, which this method suits very well I think.
Mad photoshop skillz right?
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Chris Scala
Fortune Cookie say, "When things go wrong, don't go with them!"
Current Glass-Melting Apparatus:
GTT Lynx powered by 2 5 LPM Oxycons and
a sexy Barracuda running pure tanked Oxy
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2013-01-04, 6:22pm
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Happy Inner Dragon
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Join Date: Dec 03, 2009
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 6,129
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Brilliant!!!
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2013-01-04, 9:38pm
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Join Date: Mar 16, 2012
Posts: 34
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Thanks bunyip! I had Pictured that being how it was done in my head before I asked.
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