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  #211  
Old 2011-08-27, 9:06am
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You're very welcome Roberta! No trouble at all, you caught me just before we left - you have perfect timing! I hope you have a lot of fun with the tools, I can't wait to see what you make!!

Sue (Flonche and everyone...), I'm getting the rings put up on Etsy in a couple of days....we got super busy just before our vacation so I couldn't do the listings, but I will have them avail really soon!
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  #212  
Old 2011-09-07, 8:02am
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BTW, the work shown in the gallery section is just STUNNING! I'm hoping to get some torch time to work on a few new ideas this weekend. Everything is so inspiring!!
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  #213  
Old 2011-09-08, 12:18pm
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Renee I have been gone for too long!!!!!!!!!! I need to order the mandrels like NOW!!! I can just imagine how much my sisters would love these! It is like instant Xmas gifts!!! I just drooled over the gorgeous toppers you have made!!! WOW I feel really behind the times now!
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  #214  
Old 2011-09-13, 10:37pm
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Thanks Michelle! Mandrels are in good supply! And we have a good ring selection to boot as well. Pendants are sold out for now, but more on the way.

And.... the new 6mm ball decorative screw tops are mostly sold out... They went like wildfire. Crystal tops are almost sold out too, get 'em while you can folks!

Height adapters are also being added this week so if you work "bigger", we'll be able to accommodate beads or bases that add up to 5mm-7mm in width for your rings or pendants.

Other items will be added and replenished as we get them available!
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  #215  
Old 2011-09-14, 9:04am
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I am absolutely having a ball making ring tops! Seriously. It's so fun. My rings arrived yesterday so I got to see what my beauties look like as the complete ring. I'm going to have to control myself and remember I'm supposed to be selling most of these. LOL. I kept trying on ring top after ring top thinking, "I want to keep this one."
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  #216  
Old 2011-09-15, 7:43am
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Roberta! I do the same thing!
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  #217  
Old 2011-09-15, 10:50am
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Well the bad part is that now my daughters are getting in on the "I want this one!" Surprisingly, even my 18 year old dd who at first hated the changeable ring idea. After seeing pics of other people's ring tops (which were gorgeous by the way), she said she hated them, they were too big, no one would wear them, etc, etc. Last night I showed her some of my tops on the ring base. She smiled, said, "Do you have one in my size?" LOL!!
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  #218  
Old 2011-09-17, 12:05am
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Default Ring for toppers question

Sorry to resurect an old thread but I'm trying to make a ring in silver with a screw than can take toppers and I want to make sure it's compatable. Can anyone give me any tips on where to buy the screws and how to attach them to the silver ring I'm making ?
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  #219  
Old 2011-09-18, 10:23am
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I sell the threaded screws in my shop and they fit this system. It depends on the design of your ring how you are going to attach them. If you're working in PMC you can create your piece around, or embed the head of the screw into the piece and fire it. PMC Standard fires at 1650 F and stainless steel doesn't melt until 2550F, so it should be a good way to incorporate other metals and designs with the screws. I've never actually worked with PMC and the screws together, but the theory is sound! Your other option is to somehow design a cold connection to affix these screws and your ring; there's many ways. Or, you could drill a hole in your ring shaft, counter sink it enough so the head of the screw is flush, tap the same threads in the hole, then use something like lock-tite to permanently secure the screw to your ring? That's how I might go about it. I'm sure there's other ways...maybe another metalsmith will chime in.

This is a great question! I'm trying to find some time myself to create my own changeable jewelry pieces using resin and other metals together. The options really are endless! Hope that helps!
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  #220  
Old 2011-09-19, 12:04am
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Hi Renee - Thanks very much for the advice, it is sterling rather than pmc. I'll order some of your screws and have a go. I think the more handmade options available the better
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  #221  
Old 2011-10-05, 9:08pm
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Thanks a bunch!!

We have some new toppers coming mid October for some ideas for your pieces! Hope it helps spark some creativity.
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  #222  
Old 2011-10-28, 12:49pm
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Okay, these look lovely, really, really lovely and I'm suddenly very tempted by something I had no idea I *needed*. But it has also got me wondering - does anyone make screw in cuff links? I would love to make small cabs into cuff links...
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  #223  
Old 2011-10-28, 1:21pm
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Hiya, I do, they're right at the bottom of this page:

http://littlecastledesigns.co.uk/use.../procart11.htm

...or here on my etsy:

http://www.etsy.com/listing/74957207...ff-link-blanks

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  #224  
Old 2011-11-01, 1:46pm
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Great, thank you!
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  #225  
Old 2011-11-28, 10:40pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetAge Studio View Post
I sell the threaded screws in my shop and they fit this system. It depends on the design of your ring how you are going to attach them. If you're working in PMC you can create your piece around, or embed the head of the screw into the piece and fire it. PMC Standard fires at 1650 F and stainless steel doesn't melt until 2550F, so it should be a good way to incorporate other metals and designs with the screws. I've never actually worked with PMC and the screws together, but the theory is sound! Your other option is to somehow design a cold connection to affix these screws and your ring; there's many ways. Or, you could drill a hole in your ring shaft, counter sink it enough so the head of the screw is flush, tap the same threads in the hole, then use something like lock-tite to permanently secure the screw to your ring? That's how I might go about it. I'm sure there's other ways...maybe another metalsmith will chime in.

This is a great question! I'm trying to find some time myself to create my own changeable jewelry pieces using resin and other metals together. The options really are endless! Hope that helps!

Hi Renee~ When I look at your webpage, it looks like the screws you are offering are 4mm wide? Or is that just the head of the screw? I thought the screws were just 2.5mm metric thread, but when I look for metric threaded rod, it seems it always has another number associated with it, which tells the pitch of the thread (how far apart the grooves are) to ensure a perfect fit. Can you tell me the pitch of the threads in your system? I want to put together rings that will fit perfectly, but in larger sizes than anybody is offering, and I want to make sure my rings will fit the same system. Thanks!


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  #226  
Old 2011-11-30, 12:47am
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You are right Jo; the head of the individual screw I sell is 4.5mm wide. However the screw shaft itself is the same standard metric size that is 100% compatible with all of our tools, changeable system and jewelry components. I'm not sure what you mean by "pitch" though. Can you give me the context the question was asked so I can help?

Incidentally, the screw components you're inquiring about that I sell are purchased directly from the company who manufacturer and distribute these designs; Rico Design. Maybe I can ask them for you.

Also, you are looking for ring sizes larger than 66mm (11 3/8 US size)? Maybe I can help?
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  #227  
Old 2011-11-30, 10:19am
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Hey Renee~ Thanks for your answer! What I am trying to do is make carved ring models (for lost wax silver casting) in larger ring sizes. I hope to cast the threaded post in with the ring body as all one piece. When I look for metric threaded bolts and nuts (like the ones on your site), every place I look talks about the pitch of the threads, meaning how close together the threads are. For 2.5 mm, the common thread pitch is 0.45. This describes how far apart the threads are, to ensure a perfect fit across the whole system. If I had a way to measure the thread pitch, I could just order a few of your parts, but I don't know how to measure them either!

Thanks for any help you can offer.


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  #228  
Old 2011-11-30, 11:32am
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Hi Jo,
I make a lot of screw topped components and findings, both fabricated and cast, and what you're looking for is a bolt (or grub screw) with an M2.5 designator - this describes both the diameter and pitch. You may need to source these in Europe - UK ebay is a good (and very cost effective) place to start.

hth
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  #229  
Old 2011-12-01, 10:21am
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Thanks for the clarification, George!

The main supplier I use here in the US keeps telling me I need a pitch number as well, maybe because they are accustomed to SAE designations. So they are listing an M2.5 as M2.5x0.45, the .45 being the distance between threads. They don't have any other M2.5, though, so maybe they are just overexplaining. LOL!

Thanks for the suggestion of UK Ebay!


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  #230  
Old 2012-03-20, 9:54pm
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I've started making a lot of ring tops and I have lot of design ideas. However, some of these ideas are directional. For example I made a seashell top. It would look best if the shell were oriented on the ring vertically. I was able to orient the ring topper correctly the first time I screwed it on - but not since.

This issue would also apply to things like sculptural heart ring toppers as they would look weird slanted off to the side.

So, how do those of you who have made these types of ring toppers deal with this?
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  #231  
Old 2012-03-21, 12:28am
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Hi Mary Beth,

the only think you can do really is to pack extra rubber rings underneath. When the rings are cast, they don't look to see where exactly in the ring the screw thread is facing, so they are different from ring to ring. If you only make ring tops for your own ring, you can screw the nut on the ring, mark it, screw it off, threw it onto the mandrel, wait until the bead release is dry, transfer the mark to the bead release, and you have a 'directional guidance mark'. But as soon as you sell, there is no way to guarantee direction, so if anybody buys a directional ring top from me (heart, shell, or the ones with writing on), I send them extra rubber rings (they're just little silicone washers) to 'pack' the ring, should there be any need.

Hope that helps!
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  #232  
Old 2012-03-21, 1:51am
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Quote:
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Hi Mary Beth,

the only think you can do really is to pack extra rubber rings underneath. When the rings are cast, they don't look to see where exactly in the ring the screw thread is facing, so they are different from ring to ring. If you only make ring tops for your own ring, you can screw the nut on the ring, mark it, screw it off, threw it onto the mandrel, wait until the bead release is dry, transfer the mark to the bead release, and you have a 'directional guidance mark'. But as soon as you sell, there is no way to guarantee direction, so if anybody buys a directional ring top from me (heart, shell, or the ones with writing on), I send them extra rubber rings (they're just little silicone washers) to 'pack' the ring, should there be any need.

Hope that helps!
Thank you so much! I like the idea of marking the nut and bead release. Maybe if the direction is correct on my ring I might have a fighting chance of it being correct on the rings of other people. I'll have to get some of the washers too.
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  #233  
Old 2012-04-02, 7:53am
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Are the ring toppers interchangable between systems?

In other words, if I buy a glass ring top from Sabine will it fit on the stainless steel ring base that Renee is selling?

I've been wanting a ring for myself (probably sterling) and to buy a couple as gifts (probably stainless). I've seen some great tops that I'd love to buy for myself or as gifts...but I've never been able to determine if all the systems are interchangable.

If they aren't interchangable what do I need to ask a Seller to determine if their top will fit a particular ring base?
Do all of the tops need the rubber rings/spacers underneath?

Sorry for the stupid question(s).
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  #234  
Old 2012-04-02, 10:22am
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Hi Deb, essentially, you need to ask about the screw size. I know for a fact that Renee's and my system are compatible, with others, it's worth asking. I designed my sterling rings to fit the same size as the stainless steel system, and there is a sterling system called Ring Ding, which fits, too...the system Renee and I are selling is the most common size, but if you're looking at other people's ring tops and they don't know the size, asking them where they buy the nuts might help (e.g. if they get them from Renee or me, for example, you can be pretty sure they fit)

And yes, I would recommend that the tops do have a rubber spacer underneath - it helps to 'grip' the glass and makes it less likely to come loose. But the rubber spacer should be with the ring, not the top, so you shouldn't have to look for one each time you buy a top.

Hope that helps!
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  #235  
Old 2012-04-02, 10:34am
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It helps a lot, Sabine...thanks so much.
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  #236  
Old 2012-04-02, 3:52pm
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Hi Deb, the screw-"size" of Ringding & Rico as well as Sabine's system is always M2.5, so the nuts or hex nuts have to fit M2.5 -> the description "M2.5" is European (metric!) standard. (The thread of screws in Europe might differ from US standards.)
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  #237  
Old 2012-04-04, 2:47pm
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I love these! I've been himming and hawwing for months now about getting one (or 5, lol). Guess I'll be taking the plunge imminently!

BTW, I wanted to compliment you ladies on your professionalism (Renee & Sabine). I love how you guys both sell similar stuff but you work together so nicely on this thread to get your info, tips and suggestions out to us. Kudos!
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  #238  
Old 2012-04-04, 10:51pm
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The world's big enough for the both of us, surely Can't wait to see your ring tops, Alexis!
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  #239  
Old 2012-04-05, 12:32pm
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Does anyone know if Mary McDuck's system is compatible with the European systems?

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  #240  
Old 2012-04-05, 11:16pm
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I'm not sure Shauna, I just sent her a message to ask - she has some yummy stuff!!!
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