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The Dark Room -- Photo Editing and Picture Taking. Advice, tutorials, questions on all things photoshop, photo editing, and taking pictures of beads or glass.

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  #31  
Old 2006-01-30, 7:31pm
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Hey Tanya, The eye droppers may seam like an easy way to go. But with out a control strip in the photo, you are still guessing. Here's why, any tone or color is made up of a group of dots ( yea, photographers do dots too ) called pixels. Thats what I refer to as information. Now the problem with using the droppers to select part of your image is, which dot will you select. Will it be this dot ( the one you want ) or the next dot. Which is darker then then the one you really want. And when it comes to the color channels, it will become a problem real fast. Trust the histogram, not the droppers.
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  #32  
Old 2006-01-30, 8:39pm
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Awesome tutorial Scott.

I never read it over thoroughly enough, but I know it'g going to make a difference. I doing a few things with the help of your instructions rather than how I use to edit. I know I could improve a lot though. I love learning this stuff.
I'm never satisfied with what I do photographically, can you come live with me? I need you! LOL!

Here's my feeble attempt.

Sample one before editing, Sample two after editing.

Okay I added two more photos, with different coloring so I could play around a bit more. How does this look?

Shari
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  #33  
Old 2006-01-30, 9:02pm
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Hey Sislonski. It's not about learning new stuff. It's about seeing in a new way. And your on your way. Great bead by the way. Hey we all need to live with someone. Wow the new set rocks ............ way to go girl. I can smell the breath of that beast.
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Last edited by Tanner Studios; 2006-01-30 at 9:23pm.
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  #34  
Old 2006-01-31, 8:35am
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Wow! Fantastic tutorial!!! I use Photoshop but never understood how to set these levels. Thank you soooooo much.
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  #35  
Old 2006-02-05, 12:24am
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Ok Everyone, I think we have a good handle on Levels. Where would you like to go from here?
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  #36  
Old 2006-02-08, 11:07am
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this is great! please tell us more. I don't have any specific requests but whatever it is, the before/after examples are extremely helpful.
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  #37  
Old 2006-02-08, 3:42pm
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Ok Let's talk file format. Now you all know to use Jpeg's for the web, But what you may not know is they self destruced. Every time you save a jpeg from a imaging software. They are compressed ! What that means, is your thowing away information. So each time you save. You have less and less info. We all know about making a copy from a copy and a copy from a copy. Each time the Quality drops off. So here's what I want you to do. WORK IN THE TIFF format ! If you can save in tiff format from your camera software GREAT. If you can't then save as tiff from your imaging software. You can do this with the SAVE AS, then select "tiff" ( photoshop format is ok as well ). Edit in TIFF format and save as your master file. Then when you prepare for the web you will convert to a jpeg. Thus the images is only compressed one time (That's a good thing ). Here is another reason for saving the master as a tiff. Not only can you save layers and paths. You will be able to save as an EPS ( very important ) if your going to print the image on an off set press ( printing press ). So thats it for today next time I think we'll talk about sharping.
Much love
Scott
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  #38  
Old 2006-02-14, 5:02pm
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Terrific tutorial......I've even printed off this thread for future reference. Looking forward to the 'sharpening' info.
Many thanks Scott for taking the time & trouble.

Sharon
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  #39  
Old 2006-02-15, 9:53pm
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thank you again!
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  #40  
Old 2006-03-25, 12:51pm
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Scott can I come to Utah and have you teach me photography and Photoshop?
If you don't think I am not serious your crazy!
Have you thought about teaching this at places like the Gathering or such venues?
You have a ton of information in this thread and I am so glad to have found it.
I have just ordered a light tent and now I am looking for table top lights and bulbs. I now I need to invest money in this and I am more than ready.
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  #41  
Old 2006-03-27, 6:20pm
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Shawn T,
No need for name calling, I kayak on the Great Salt Lake all winter. Anyone that knows me, knows of my questionable mental state. But I do know something of photography and photoshop. If there is interest, I would be happy to throw out what I can. The question is should I work this thread or start a new thread. I have had others requesting tuts on other tool within photoshop. So I'm thinking of starting a photography Master class thread, with photoshop editing starting it off. Everyone let me know what you think or what you would like me to cover.
Much love
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  #42  
Old 2006-03-27, 8:04pm
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Default Just wanted to show you.

I was looking for a new camera - I had my camera with me, the sales guy took this picture from my camera hp3.9 something. Anyway he just took the picture in the store - I came home, he told me to play - I just adujusted the gamma and this is what came out. I couldn't believe it and I still can't duplicate what he did. So - when I make my jewelry I am going back to the store with the disc and have him take my pictures HA - Off point here just want to show you. I will figure it out one of these days.



Thanks for taking a peek.
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  #43  
Old 2006-03-28, 10:29am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tanner Studios
Shawn T,
No need for name calling, I kayak on the Great Salt Lake all winter. Anyone that knows me, knows of my questionable mental state. But I do know something of photography and photoshop. If there is interest, I would be happy to throw out what I can. The question is should I work this thread or start a new thread. I have had others requesting tuts on other tool within photoshop. So I'm thinking of starting a photography Master class thread, with photoshop editing starting it off. Everyone let me know what you think or what you would like me to cover.
Much love
Scott
To Kayak on the Great Salt Lakes seems like a perfectly wonderful time, although I am not sure about doing it in the winter.
Sorry didnt mean to pour salt in an open wound there.

I think starting a new thread for each for each tut would be a wonderful idea. I find that much information gets lost on LE when threads tend to be too long. When someone new opens it and finds out they have 4-7 pages to read they get overwhelmed by it and don't continue through the thread. I would hate to see your wonderful and valuable information getting lost on
LE when so many people could use it.
Thank You so Much Scott for sharing So much that is so needed by others.
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  #44  
Old 2006-03-28, 1:49pm
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Vonna, the photo the sales guy shot is very nice. But your problem, is the same problem most everyone is having. Most of you think that macro means close up photography. But what it really means is VERY close up. Thats why the photo looks great. But when you try to back off, so you get the whole set in the photo. The image is soft. The reason for this is the limitations of your len. With cameras that have fixed lens, The len is design to do snap shots of your mother and babys. So the macro setting has a very small area where it will be sharp ( Very close up ). How what I want you to do is back off even more. Set up your shot and do some testing. come in as close as you can. Snap a shot. back away and take another so on and so on. Make notes of the distance between the lens and the subject for each shot. Then take all of the photos into the computer, open the image and view them at 1to1 ( in photoshop double clicking on the magnifying glass ) then compare . This will help you find your len's sweet spot. Remember that you only need a very small file for the web. So you don't have to fill the whole image area in your camera.

Now about GAMMA, this is not something you should be useing. What gamma is, is a problem when printing on a printing press and the process of converting a RGB file to a CMYK file. (cmyk, cyan,magenta, yellow, black ). These are the color inks that printing press use. We on the other hand are publishing on the web, so we use red, green and blue (RGB) light to get our colors. Whats happening when you use the gamma tool is your losing some of your colors intensity. and by the way in paint shop it's just a preset levels adjustment anyway. So learn levels and you won't have gamma problem in the first place.
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Last edited by Tanner Studios; 2006-03-28 at 1:55pm.
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  #45  
Old 2006-03-29, 7:23am
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Default Scott Advice

Getting the idea, this is what I did last night. I emailed ya. Thanks and will try all you suggestions. You are a great help to me and I hope to all and thank you for taking the time to help. I know this is dark, but had to edit with kids computer - they screwed up that one and now mine is on the fritz. Thanks again... I don't think I did the gamma on this and I tried to back off.



EWWWWWWW the picture looks horrible in here.
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  #46  
Old 2006-04-04, 6:40am
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wow great help, thanks so much!
ro
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  #47  
Old 2006-04-10, 6:55am
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Scott,

Has anyone thought about writing a complete quick reference manual on Photoshop and Beads? The posts in the Dark Room are great. I have tried reading the manual but these tutorials are so easy to understand.

Barb
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  #48  
Old 2006-04-18, 6:41pm
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I purchased some daylight bulbs which I think helps. I also added an additional light, so I have three total.



Here's the histogram, I've been playing with it a little but not any good results yet. I'll keep trying. I paid attention to the tutorial on "contrast" and setting the points closer together. It is greek to me.


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  #49  
Old 2006-04-18, 11:58pm
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Seph, don't feel bad you've not had luck with the levels. I down loaded the image and played with it myself. I had a hard time with it myself. The problem is you have a very ugly color bais going on ( kinda cyan/green thing) your going to have to solve that at the light source. on page 1 I talked about filters. I think you should read it. your going to need a little blue and a little magenta over your lights ( very light shades) The reason it is affecting the the image when you use the levels is, when you set your black point where it should be that evil color jumps out. when you try to fix the color balance. It shift around so much that you end up with more problems. I did have some success but it took alot more than levels.


Make sure all your light are of matching color balance. get a white card to reflect light into the shaddows. And make sure your camera is set on the right color balance for your lights. And try to find a very light magent filter. For over the lights or len. Experiment! you have to find a way to kill that Evil bais.

Good luck, keep me posted
Scott
P.S. you might try a different type of paper, the bais maybe comimg from the surface your shooting on
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Last edited by Tanner Studios; 2006-04-19 at 10:35am.
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  #50  
Old 2006-04-19, 4:30am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tanner Studios
Make sure all your light are of matching color balance. get a white card to reflect light into the shaddows. And make sure your camera is set on the right color balance for your lights. And try to find a very light magent filter. For over the lights or len. Experiment! you have to find a way to kill that Evil bais.
whew!! Scott, thanks so much for working on this I really appreciate your time. Regarding the lights.. this picture was with the new daylight bulbs I purchased at Wal-Mart - so they are all the same. However, the room lights are soft white...could that cause a problem?

White balance is a weak feature of the camera that I'm using - or so the reviews I've read indicate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tanner Studios
The problem is you have a very ugly color bais going on ( kinda cyan/green thing) your going to have to solve that at the light source. on page 1 I talked about filters. I think you should read it. your going to need a little blue and a little magenta over your lights ( very light shades) The reason it is affecting the the image when you use the levels is, when you set your black point where it should be that evil color jumps out. when you try to fix the color balance. It shift around so much that you end up with more problems. I did have some success but it took alot more than levels.
OK, I'll look for these filters.

Quote:
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Good luck, keep me posted
Scott
P.S. you might try a different type of paper, the bais maybe come from the surface your shooting on
mmmm you know when I switched to the light gray paper- I used a white paper to adjust the color balance... yikes

Scott thank you so much for your help. I really really appreciate it!!
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  #51  
Old 2006-04-19, 9:53am
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Seph, turn off the room lights when you shoot, that could be the source of the bais.
Scott
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Last edited by Tanner Studios; 2006-04-19 at 10:36am.
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  #52  
Old 2006-04-20, 2:41am
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Quote:
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when you set your black point where it should be that evil color jumps out. when you try to fix the color balance. It shift around so much that you end up with more problems. I did have some success but it took alot more than levels
HI Scott,

I've been working with Shawnette and discovered that the evil color is the reflection of the green leather chair setting by the table. I would have never guessed.
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  #53  
Old 2006-04-20, 11:53am
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yea light can bounce around and pick up all kinda color. I hope that solves your problem. way to think out side the box.
Scott
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  #54  
Old 2006-04-22, 2:13pm
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hello! well, I've made some major changes... at least I think so. I turned the macro off and backed my camera up about 2 foot Lowered the fstop to f3.5 and set the other setting to 20 or 30... I also messed with the levels and am not getting the green.. now it's a pink in the upper right.. which I think is the indirect light coming from the front door. No way to block that. However i'm thinking of moving this to a different room to prevent any indirect light.

it's the focus in the background... is this still a depth of field problem?

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  #55  
Old 2006-04-22, 4:28pm
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Steph, How dare you say there is no way to block that indirect lite. Then tell me your thinking of moving to a new room, LOL I think thats called an oxymoron. Anyway, way to go! But you still have some cyan/green bais. But it's so much better then your first photo. Your on the right track.

About depth of field. Yes, your on the right track there too. Because your're using lite bulbs. You will have problems with depth of field. Macro and wide open fstops are the enemy of depth of field. Try coming over on top of your piece.


that wil compancate for the lack of depth of field.

Please don't feel bad. Your thinking out side the box. And that we'll lead you to the final solution faster then any advise I can give you. way to go! But I still think you need a magenta filter.
Much love
Scott
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  #56  
Old 2006-05-18, 9:49pm
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Please post your comments here and not email me. It's not that I don't enjoy hearing from you. I just think that more people will beneifit if the questions & anwsers were posted here on this thread.
Much love
Scott
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  #57  
Old 2006-06-14, 7:21pm
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Thanks for reminding me of that tool! I took photos the other night with good lighting and tweaked the levels a tad. the bead is one made by Steph Bonniwell for our monthly auction and the other is a piece I made (wish I could show you the big version of it here). I was so happy with the results of these two photos!
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  #58  
Old 2006-06-16, 7:17am
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Quote:
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Ok Everyone, I think we have a good handle on Levels. Where would you like to go from here?
How do I take the "graininess" outta my pictures? They are really good and focused but dark! I go edit the picture by lightning, contrast and focusing but it goes grainy when I do that!
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  #59  
Old 2006-06-17, 6:29pm
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Anne, Your question is very simple to answer. Grain; is the product of lost information ( ie; pixalation ). Now let's ask a new question... I'm losing information. Which makes my photo's look grainy. What can I do?

Thanks alot Anne, you have just opened up a huge can of worms! LOL.

Lets start with a refresher. What is information? Information is the number of dots captured when you take a photo. With film, were talking atoms. In the digital world we're talking dot per inch. Also called Resolution. Thats what the camera companys call mega pixals. How many dot per inch. In photoshop this is referred to as dpi. Now when I talk about lost of Information. I'm talking about changing the original information that the camera captured. So ADDING or SUBTRACTING is losing info. ( Yes I did said adding ). Change is change right? Enter interpolation.

What is INTERPOLATION ? Thats how your computer thinks. Mathematic's ! Now don't run away yet. I too am an artist. And flunked math at an early age. We don't need to understand it , just control it (thank God for nerds ). Ok that was uncalled for Every time you exercise a command in a photo editing soft ware. You are asking the computer to interpolate ( add or subtract ).

With all that said, lets talk about what causes grain or pixalation.
Heres the Good new and Bad new. The bad news is I can't solve your problem. The good news is I can list alot of enemies. So you can help yourself.

Here are the enemies.....

Capture; it all starts here. use a tripod. this will let you work at the highest resolution possible and keep the image sharp. A poorly shot image will have high grain from the start. (bad image... Out of focus, underexposed or over exposed, motion etc. ). Get it right from the start. Oh did I say, Tripod! you can not hand hold your camera! Invest in a platform, be it a tripod or camera stand.

Interpolation: when editing your image remember the more steps, the more grain (or lost information ). That's, what I mean't when I said control. Thats why Levels are so important. Levels will do contrast, color balance and brightness in one step.

Resizing ; This is were most bead maker really mess up. I will try to do a tut on this next.

Sharpening: Another Huge mistake that alot of you are making. Let me say this about sharpening. This is the VERY LAST THING YOU SHOULD DO BEFORE SAVING. AND ONLY ONCE! Sharpening is a very powerful tool. It's all about adding information. And is the source of most of your problems. This tool used with out understanding will pixalate a image faster then any thing else.

Anne, let me take a wild guess, You sharpen the moment you open your file.

Yes there are so many worm in this can. I think this is a great place to start a new lession.
Much Love
Scott
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  #60  
Old 2006-06-17, 7:59pm
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Scott - can I add two things? I READ my camera manual finally and found that it has a timer option. What a huge aid! Now I can set up the shot (on a tripod) depress the shutter and back off. 10 seconds later it takes the pic No blur, no movement.
thing 2 - in all the graphics jobs I've ever done I've only used unsharp mask, never sharpen, for the same reason - graininess, and as lonf as you use the preview option, you can really tell how much tweaking you're doing..
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