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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2012-11-06, 11:00pm
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James Lewis James Lewis is offline
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Default foot flaring troubles

Lately ive been working on my flared foots. But i keep on getting this extra peice of glass that flares out like a toe. Am i spinning it to fast or is my heat base off on it? I think its a combo of things. I was just hopping for some more experinced advice on how to fix this problem. Thank you for your time.
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  #2  
Old 2012-11-07, 6:13am
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Hey James, Here is a video from youtube of Cesare Toffolo. Notice the type of flame they are using....no central fire....soft wide flame. Also notice what part of the onion shape bubble is getting the hottest....the lip has to travel the furthest so it needs to be the hottest and the rest of the bubble is evenly heated. Another important point of a foot flare is how even the bubble is blown...the more even the the wall thickness is the more concentric the flare. The cleaner the lip and more even the glass is at the lip will result in and more concentric foot. They can be nicely done with jacks or a carbon reamer also...everyone has different ways.....Hope this helps some...Brett

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RE4d0HS08ds
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  #3  
Old 2012-11-07, 1:18pm
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How the hell does he spin that so fast with his fingers alone? He is a freaking master lol
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  #4  
Old 2012-11-11, 5:53pm
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Yeah James he is gifted with some serious skills! I watched him in action down in Corning at the GAS conference. The reason he can spin it so fast is that he...Roger Parramore...Emilio Santini or Robert Mickelson have learned to balance the glass in the left hand so that the weight of the rod or tube in the left hand is centered on the middle finger. I have been a scientific/artistic flameworker for almost 30yrs and learned that this balance point is most helpful. So, to describe it I would say that the pointer finger and thumb do the turning and the other three "cradle" the rod allowing the rod to spin in this cradle at the "balance point" Usually a piece of 6mm/1/4" rod is used. Any bigger and it is harder to get the speed needed to spin out a foot. A longer rod in the left hand also helps with the weight balance. Parramore sometimes puts a counter weight on the end of the rod to balance the weight. This balancing works for all things blown when flameworking..vases...jars...goblets. Hope this helps Brett
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  #5  
Old 2012-11-12, 7:05pm
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If you look closely, he's not actually spinning the foot at 100 miles an hour. The spiral lines give the illusion that he's spinning it a lot faster than he is.
I actually spin my feet (not foots) out quite slowly as far as that goes, if you have the right heat, there is no need to spin like a maniac. The one thing, because I was trained in the Northern European tradition, that I do differently to most people in the States, is that I turn my glass forwards, i.e. away from myself, rather than towards me, like you guys do. This gives a lot better balance to spinning and turning in general, because you're turning the glass into your palm, rather than away from your palm.
Having said that, it's not about how fast you spin, as long as you get some centrifugal action happening so the foot opens up by itself. The important parts of the vid that BPierce posted are even prep work (which you don't see in the vid), where in the flame he's working and the temperature and heat gradient he gets the foot to.

BPierce: In this vid, Cesare is working on a Herbie Zenit torch. These torches have no independent center fire cutoff, I'm not sure where you're seeing that the centerfire is off??? Also, it doesn't make much sense, anyway, because if the center fire is off, it causes the core of the flame to be much cooler, giving an uneven ring of heat, even further out in the flame ...

If you do have a torch, such as a GTT, which has an independent center fire, I don't recommend running your torch with the centerfire off, this can damage a torch, depending on what kind of torch it is.
What you want to make a spun foot like that is a very even, broad soaking flame which gives you very even heat with no cold spots.
Lastly, notice that when he removes his point and opens up the foot it's a very small hole. It's much easier to work with a small apperture like that, as it's generally much cleaner. Making a large apperture can get messy. Also, if you're applying a lip wrap, it's not so far to go around and again, it's much easier to keep everything even.
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  #6  
Old 2012-11-12, 7:46pm
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I tend to spin in both directions, as long as you are getting more than full rotations its fine. A lot depends on the angle you are in the flame, the evenness of the wall, the shape of the bubble, how smooth the lip is, etc etc etc. I tend to use a carbon rod only in the very beginning and then do the rest with gravity so I dont have tool marks, its takes LOTS AND LOTS of practice....
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Old 2012-11-14, 6:15am
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I'm another ambi-spinner from North America. I was never taught to spin in any particular direction. I also am not exactly a master of goblet feets but I just wanted to chime in on that topic
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  #8  
Old 2012-11-14, 7:24am
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I find that quickly reversing the direction of spin adds some serious centrifical force and tends to flare quickly. I tend to start flaring with my work paralell to the flame and as it begins to flare I gradually raise my elbow and change the angle.

remember whatever the shape of the top of your bubble is, thats the shape of the top of the foot.. .. I am also a point puller and have found that the thinner the handle/point you use when spinning a foot etc the more rotations you get for the movement and the better the flare. I have more control. But that could also be because thats the way I learned and have done it for over 30 years
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Old 2012-11-14, 7:58am
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I never even thought about it until last night. Turns out I spin away from myself. I tried it the other way and it's really tough to do for a long duration.
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