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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2023-09-01, 9:22pm
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Lampwork Hobbyist
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Join Date: Aug 31, 2023
Location: Fairfield, California
Posts: 52
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How to stop clear from darkening
Hi all, I've been lampworking for about a month now and I'm slowly working on the various techniques I've read about.
Currently I've been trying my hand at encasing. I'm not having much luck.
I've only got a hothead style torch, which means instead of constantly cooling my beads like I see people do in videos, I am constantly trying to get any heat I can. But I believe it is this long exposure to heat that is causing my clear to darken. Does that sound right to you guys?
I'm open to any tips, suggestions, or links to tutorials or videos you know of that might help me.
It seems to want to become grayish black? Still see through but not clear like the rod is when I start.
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2023-09-02, 9:11am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 23, 2005
Location: Up and down I-95
Posts: 4,390
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It's not so much the long exposure, although that could certainly contribute, it's probably a combo of the glass being too close to the torch face, getting too much soot from the propane or Mapp.
You say Hothead style...like a Fireworks or other type?
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Rebecca
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2023-09-02, 12:40pm
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Lampwork Hobbyist
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Join Date: Aug 31, 2023
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I tried some much smaller test beads that didn't need to be worked so long to see if they had the same issue, since I usually make larger beads. They did. So I guess you're right and it's not exposure time.
Il do some more test beads today and work them way far out and see if that helps. I don't feel like I'm up too close to the torch, but what do I know lol, worth a shot.
It's whatever torch devardi puts in their starter kit. I don't think it has a name.
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2023-09-02, 3:33pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 31, 2006
Location: Knoxville, TN
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If you are using Devardi glass and their torch it is probably a combination of the two. But practice is practice and I applaud you for tackling encasing so soon!
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Kathy
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2023-09-02, 4:43pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 02, 2010
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For sure on the encasing. I don't think I even tried for the first year and didn't crack the code for a couple years after that.
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ESC
Soft glass on a Minor/concentrator since 1996
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2023-09-02, 8:01pm
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Lampwork Hobbyist
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Join Date: Aug 31, 2023
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Hah, ok right on.
Il just keep on playing around with it, I'm in no rush.
I'm kind of just trying everything, instead of like focusing on one skill and trying to master it before moving on.
Some dots here, some bicones there.
Making twisties, encasing, whatever I'm feeling that day.
I'd say so far the skill I've improved the most is making the ends nice instead of all weird and sharp.
And encasing is definitely the most difficult.
Haven't even dared to try using a murrini yet, even though my kit came with a little baggie of them. Well, I tried one or two and obliterated them. Haven't tried again lol.
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2023-09-03, 11:42am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 31, 2006
Location: Knoxville, TN
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Sometimes a pale transparent glass performs better than clear for encasing.
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Kathy
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2023-09-04, 2:01am
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Join Date: Aug 31, 2023
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I gave that a try. Well, I'm not exactly sure what you meant by pale. But I used a transparent yellow I had, over an orange core. And it turned out better, not all darkened. It does kinda look green though
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2023-09-04, 7:09am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 31, 2006
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I use the very palest aqua or green. They are really almost clear but less fussy to use. But that looks great - and I like the color. They look a lot more pale in the hand than they do with the table background.
Pale Aqua 591038
Crystal Green 791978 (no longer available)
Pale Apple Green 591073
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Kathy
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2023-09-04, 10:40pm
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Join Date: Aug 31, 2023
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Oh yeah, those are really nice colors.
So these are what I have that's kind of close to that idea.
I'm just sitting down at my bench to get started for the night.
Gonna try em out.
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2023-09-11, 11:09am
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Lampwork Hobbyist
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Join Date: Aug 31, 2023
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I was just roasting it too hard. The one rod of effetre clear I had could take a lot more heat but the devardi clear was burning bad. Turning my flame down to as low as it can go let's me apply clear with no discoloration, just takes longer. Patience patience patience xD
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2023-09-11, 5:30pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 04, 2008
Location: Estero, Florida
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Patience and practice are the key to this whole thing
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2023-09-22, 11:10am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 22, 2012
Posts: 443
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Devardi has some really nice colors that I love, like Lipstick and Melon, but in my opinion, Effetre is a little more workable-friendly. It's good that you have some of each.
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2023-09-26, 5:54pm
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Lampwork Hobbyist
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Join Date: Aug 31, 2023
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I bought myself a couple random colors from CIM, effetre, and vetrofond. Still all new to me. Very fun to explore new ones and play with them.
I am definitely buying myself a bunch of the pinks and purples devardi has that I really came to enjoy. Once I have some spare cash lol.
The clear specifically I'm having better luck using effetre, but honestly I was just burning them and have learned to work them cooler now. I haven't had a clear bead not be clear in the last few weeks, regardless if it's vetrofond or devardi or effetre. But E is the most forgiving to me.
I also specifically bought those Pale colors Echeveria recommended me and I love them.
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2023-09-26, 6:50pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 31, 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woonasty
I also specifically bought those Pale colors Echeveria recommended me and I love them.
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Glad I didn’t steer you wrong!
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Kathy
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2023-12-04, 9:29pm
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J R Hooper
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Join Date: Feb 14, 2008
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 232
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You can get a little HHO setup on Ebay or Amazon for a little over a hundred bucks that will eliminate any soot issues, I have one that I use for a hand torch and it's amazing. The listings will call it anything from 'Acrylic Polishing Machine' 'Oxygen Hydrogen' 'HHO Gas Flame Generator' 'Oxygen-Hydrogen Generator' 'Water Welder' 'Acrylic Flame Polishing Machine' to HHO generator. I wish I had bought one back when i had my hot head, but that thing has been a god send for smaller projects and it gets hot enough to sublimate tungsten or mild enough to melt soft glass. It runs on distilled water and electricity, and you will need to add a small amount of KOH, or potassium hydroxide to start with. Highly reccomend a hydrogen rated flashback arrestor and maybe an additional bubbler for filtration as they are cheaply made and put a little electrolyte into the gas.
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