Making devardi glass less shocky - Page 2

Shrimp · #31 2011-09-27, 1:24pm

When I first started lampworking, I had an insatiable appetite for Opal Yellow. I didn't care how much grief it gave me. I truly agree with Vivian that it strengthens ones skills when learning to adjust to all types of glass. To this day, I'll take all the fireworks that Opal Yellow has to offer!

Kalera · #32 2011-09-27, 1:25pm

I love opal yellow, and haven't had that much trouble with it except for the cone ends. Those are really shocky!

sweetiedog · #33 2011-09-27, 1:27pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shrimp

I'd like to know how many brave soles there are out there that just stick a cold rod of glass directly in the flame without even wafting it, in and out of the flame until it is preheated.

I never preheat my rods. I grab them off the shelf and stick them in the flame. I've only had one color explode on me and that was the original batch of choco-lotta from Effetre. I sold that stuff in the garage sale the next day.

Although I admittedly avoid all glass that I read as being potentially temperamental. I just don't have the patience to baby any glass no matter how pretty it is.

Shrimp · #34 2011-09-27, 1:31pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kalera

I love opal yellow, and haven't had that much trouble with it except for the cone ends. Those are really shocky!

I think that my problem must lie in the diameter of the Opal Yellow rods that I purchased years ago. They are quite large. I may just have to order some skinny ones on my next shopping expedition to see if that makes a difference. Then I can quit bitching about my Opal Yellow glass being shocky.

VivianLampwork · #35 2011-09-27, 2:19pm

My opal yellow is very shocky. Also, the 2-toned odd Vetrofond lots from a few years back are bad. There's one that's ivory colored & has a dark center. I LOVE the color, but it's the shockiest glass I have. I still use it almost everytime I torch.

MaryBeth · #36 2011-09-27, 3:01pm

I stick my glass right in the flame also. I've had very few problems doing this.
If the glass seems shocky I place the very edge of the end of the rod in the hottest part of the flame (the flame is just barely touching it). Once the end glows you can then work with the glass in your normal working area of the flame.

I either read this tip somewhere or was told about it in a class. But it came from someone who had been lampworking a long, long time.

I don't really preheat murrini either except in the back of the flame. About the only thing I do preheat are goldstone chunks and I'll throw them in the kiln for a few minutes.

I don't need extra appliances on my workbench.

AKDesigns · #37 2011-09-27, 3:18pm

I stick my glass right in the flame too. I don't preheat, I never have. I've never had any glass that has been mentioned in this thread cause me major problems. I think some people are hyping that a bit for their own reasons. The only problems I've ever had have been from rods with bubbles or a thin stream of air down the middle of the rod. Still I don't preheat those either. I just work them a bit slower.

SuzyQ · #38 2011-09-27, 3:22pm

I don't preheat most rods. I stick it right in the flame. Even when I know it might shock I try it anyway, lol. I'll only turn on my curling iron heater if it refused to behave.

Mountain Snail · #39 2011-09-27, 3:49pm

Craig M. at arrowsprings showed me how to place my glass in the very tip top of the flame at an angle and work it down as the glass was ready. No preheating. No waving my arms about like a chicken.

When it is cold out I do have to place my glass on top of the kiln though. Damn snow.

NLC Beads · #40 2011-09-27, 5:02pm

I jab at the flame a bit, but don't do any other preheating. Honey Crunch and Smoke Rings made me crazy - I unloaded them on someone else because the breaking off into 1/4" chunks as I fed it into the flame got old fast.

Handpulled colors can be shocky, too, especially with the line of air running down the center. Usually once they're in the flame and working they're ok, though.

I've heard so much about Devardi being shocky - and saw it at one class - I don't even want to try it. No colors are worth the frustration, from ANY maker.

Shrimp · #41 2011-09-27, 5:13pm

Here is a photo of one of the masters, Lucio Bubacco, using a rod warmer. There must be some reason for him to use it. The rods don't look like they are over sized.

AKDesigns · #42 2011-09-27, 5:23pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shrimp

Here is a photo of one of the masters, Lucio Bubacco, using a rod warmer. There must be some reason for him to use it. The rods don't look like they are over sized.

So what?

VivianLampwork · #43 2011-09-27, 5:40pm

Amy, she showed a picture of that rod warmer & was asking about it. I think she's saying it must work if he's using one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AKDesigns

So what?

JavaGirlBT · #44 2011-09-27, 5:49pm

Actually the rods Lucio uses are a lot thicker than the rods of Effetre we use here. His are like 9-10 mm rather than the 5-6 mm we use. All the Muranese lampworkers use porta canas.

Here's a picture that shows the thickness.

JavaGirlBT · #45 2011-09-27, 5:50pm

I bought one while I was over there. It's great for encasing. You don't have to wait for your clear as long as you would if you didn't have it in the flame.

Shrimp · #46 2011-09-27, 5:52pm

Amy...........?

SilverRiverJewelry · #47 2011-09-27, 5:57pm

Hmmm I use a rod warmer for all of my glass, no matter what the brand or coe. I don't have much problems with any of my glass shocking including Devardi and some of the more shock prone colors in the other lines. And I started using Devardi about a month into learning to make beads. I really think it just depends on what works for you. Any glass, or color of glass, has a learning curve, I tend to burn yellows and oranges and know that I need to turn the heat down, no matter who makes it. We all work differently so it stands to reason that we would like different glass to work with.

bshelle · #48 2011-09-27, 5:57pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shrimp

Here is a photo of one of the masters, Lucio Bubacco, using a rod warmer. There must be some reason for him to use it. The rods don't look like they are over sized.

I had class w/ him and he used the rack. It seemed to me that he was using it for expediency sake due to what he was making. He used the large diameter rods for punties, and I think they were boro, but I can't remember that detail well enough to be sure. That was in the States, though, too.

I preheated Devardi by waving in and out of the flame, just like all the other brands I use. I really didn't have a boatload of problems, but I took my sweet ass time warming it up. That's kind of wasteful when you've got your propane, kiln, and oxy running, not to mention your own clock.

Leslie Dana · #49 2011-09-27, 6:06pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shrimp

Here is a photo of one of the masters, Lucio Bubacco, using a rod warmer. There must be some reason for him to use it. The rods don't look like they are over sized.

That is like comparing watermelons to kiwis

Leslie Dana · #50 2011-09-27, 6:07pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by JavaGirlBT

I bought one while I was over there. It's great for encasing. You don't have to wait for your clear as long as you would if you didn't have it in the flame.

This makes sense!

AKDesigns · #51 2011-09-27, 6:24pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by VivianLampwork

Amy, she showed a picture of that rod warmer & was asking about it. I think she's saying it must work if he's using one.

No, she's beating that dead horse. She's trying to say that Effetre must be shocky if even a master has to use a rod warmer. It's getting old.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shrimp

Amy...........?

Speak up Aleta if you have something to say. And don't PM me either like you did last time.

Shrimp · #52 2011-09-27, 6:34pm

Amy, you can view it whatever way you want. You have a right to your opinions just like everyone else does.

JavaGirlBT · #53 2011-09-27, 6:41pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by AKDesigns

No, she's beating that dead horse. She's trying to say that Effetre must be shocky if even a master has to use a rod warmer.

The reason the glass masters use the porta canas is because of their style of working, not because Effetre is shocky. I don't know if that's what she's trying to say or not, but I thought I'd clear it up just in case.

Shrimp · #54 2011-09-27, 6:49pm

I was not trying to say that Effetre is shocky. I was just pointing out to the OP another option for using the porta canas. Yes I agree that it expedites his demo by not having to play around with preheating rods that need a little extra measure of care.

Shrimp · #55 2011-09-27, 7:35pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by JavaGirlBT

Actually the rods Lucio uses are a lot thicker than the rods of Effetre we use here. His are like 9-10 mm rather than the 5-6 mm we use. All the Muranese lampworkers use porta canas.

Here's a picture that shows the thickness.

This also makes a lot of sense as the artist needs a major portion of the glass to be preheated in order to have enough for the particular portion of the sculpture.

glassactcc · #56 2011-09-27, 7:37pm

I want that TOOOOOOORCH....damn it.

Shrimp · #57 2011-09-27, 7:38pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by glassactcc

I want that TOOOOOOORCH....damn it.

It is way too COOOOOL!

Polgarra · #58 2011-09-27, 7:40pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by glassactcc

I want that TOOOOOOORCH....damn it.

Do ittttttt!

Signguy · #59 2011-09-27, 7:42pm

My this has turned into quite the thread!

When I posted it I intended as more of a technical discussion rather than a general debate, but it's all good (and interesting).

In case anyone cares, here's why I brought it up:

Yes, I am somewhat of a rookie, only been torching for about 6 months. And no, I didn't buy some devardi glass because it's cheap. I have tons of glass from all the manufacturers, but I'm always looking fo something new to try. So, I bought it because some of the colors looked intriguing, and the customer service is awesome. It being cheap is a bonus...

I agree with some of the posters who related time to money and suggested that this glass may not be worth the trouble. If you are doing glass as a business that makes sense. But on the other hand, many of us don't do it as a business, and I suspect that even those who do are probably interested in exploring new types of glass as well.

Either way, I hate to see people putting down other people who have an opinion. I think it's totally fine for people to hate the glass and not use it, just as it's totally fine to like using it.

In my case, I've got time to experiment. But that doesn't mean I wouldn't like to find a better way to get devardi glass to work. In fact, it works pretty well to heat it slowly and/or preheat it, but wouldn't it be great if we didn't have to?

BTW, devardi told me that they are working on getting the pulls more consistent, and smaller. Meanwhile, i think its great if those who want to keep experimenting and sharing and see if we can make using this glass more accessible for everyone.

That's what I'm going to do!

Have a great evening - and thanks for your responses.

Erik

AKDesigns · #60 2011-09-27, 7:52pm

Erik, you'd have to know the history to understand some of the undertones in this thread. You can do a search and read some of it, but other Devardi threads Corri actually had to delete. This thread is tame compared to some of them.