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  #211  
Old 2009-01-21, 2:16pm
sarah_hornik sarah_hornik is offline
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Barb, you are a sweetheart for putting so much work into this.
Many thanks for sharing!
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  #212  
Old 2009-01-21, 2:25pm
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bubby's bubbly beads? (baking soda beads without the baking soda!)
sorry, that's all I can think of now....
I kinda like *some* bubbly glass, after all, if you *know* it's bubbly, & use it on *purpose*, it can be cool (thinking of the bubbleglass some of us paid crazy prices per quarter-pound for, dealt with insane shockiness on, & just adore, BECAUSE it's all bubbles )
Not so cool in a floral, or an intricate, highly decorated bead, but in an extremely simple bead, where the bubbles are part of the design, could be cool....
(bakingsoda beads always scare me that they're going to blow up sometime later due to the baking soda in them...just seems weird)
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  #213  
Old 2009-01-21, 2:27pm
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Bubby thanks for the work! Now I guess I need to earn some $ so I can try it for myself.
Beth
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  #214  
Old 2009-01-21, 2:32pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunamoonshadow View Post
bubby's bubbly beads? (baking soda beads without the baking soda!)
sorry, that's all I can think of now....
I kinda like *some* bubbly glass, after all, if you *know* it's bubbly, & use it on *purpose*, it can be cool (thinking of the bubbleglass some of us paid crazy prices per quarter-pound for, dealt with insane shockiness on, & just adore, BECAUSE it's all bubbles )
Not so cool in a floral, or an intricate, highly decorated bead, but in an extremely simple bead, where the bubbles are part of the design, could be cool....
(bakingsoda beads always scare me that they're going to blow up sometime later due to the baking soda in them...just seems weird)
I agree luna, could be cool if bubbles are desired. That marine blue looks like a different shade of blue than anyone else has so I think I could be ok with them in that color. lol

I still am loving the Salmon!!! And I ordered the trans burgundy too - it looked so pretty and it is one color we really don't have from any other supplier.
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  #215  
Old 2009-01-21, 2:36pm
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Well done, Barb!!! Great job, and thank you so much for testing that white. I'm excited!!!!
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  #216  
Old 2009-01-21, 2:43pm
volkanokaren volkanokaren is offline
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Thanks Bubby!!! Veeeery interesting

Karen
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  #217  
Old 2009-01-21, 2:49pm
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Yeah I was thinking a bubbly hollow would be nice. Especially that dk marine color.

Lol bubby's bubbly beads.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lunamoonshadow View Post
bubby's bubbly beads? (baking soda beads without the baking soda!)
sorry, that's all I can think of now....
I kinda like *some* bubbly glass, after all, if you *know* it's bubbly, & use it on *purpose*, it can be cool (thinking of the bubbleglass some of us paid crazy prices per quarter-pound for, dealt with insane shockiness on, & just adore, BECAUSE it's all bubbles )
Not so cool in a floral, or an intricate, highly decorated bead, but in an extremely simple bead, where the bubbles are part of the design, could be cool....
(bakingsoda beads always scare me that they're going to blow up sometime later due to the baking soda in them...just seems weird)
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  #218  
Old 2009-01-21, 2:52pm
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Thanks for all the hard work you've put in testing the glass. There are some lovely colors that, I'm sure, will be instant hits.
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  #219  
Old 2009-01-21, 2:57pm
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Bubby, Thanks so much for all your hard work and research. That was a very good report and very interesting information!

Jim, should you come back on here, you might want to read this thread that deals with lead in today's glass.

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=117931

You could also check out the Bullseye website and I think the CR Loo website also lists the lead-free glass it has from the different manufacturers.

Some of you who are interested may want to look into the melting of glass and the refining of that glass during the melt, which removes the bubbles, a step that is necessary in creating a good quality glass.
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  #220  
Old 2009-01-21, 2:58pm
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Hey, there it is!! Thanks for the eye candy Bubby. I found myself going 'Hmmmm" after you mentioned there were no color reactions between the orange and turquoise bead...not to mention the rubino. That's veeerrrry interesting! Hmmmm!
You did great, thanks again for all that work!! Renee
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  #221  
Old 2009-01-21, 2:58pm
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Thanks, Bubby! It looks like the fact that the orange/turquoise reaction doesn't happen might be useful. Sometimes it would be nice to be able to create a design without that reaction.

The Salmon is pretty too!

This has been very helpful
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  #222  
Old 2009-01-21, 2:58pm
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Thanks Bubby for your posting and your hard work! You are a class act


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  #223  
Old 2009-01-21, 3:04pm
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the lack of orange/turquoise reaction makes me wonder what the colorants are in the rods. If they used sulphur (orange) and copper (turq) - the traditional ones - they would react. Interesting indeed.
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  #224  
Old 2009-01-21, 3:06pm
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Thanks Natasha,
I'll be trying again when I'm not so rushed to pack in as much as possible in a couple hours. I'm sure I was working the transparents too hot in my rush.
I have so many other colors I didn't get to and a few I already know I'd like to get more of.
When you get some more of the pinks in I'd really like to know. I was hoping to test at least the dk rose and would really like to try all of them on the chart.

Quote:
Originally Posted by prettyangel View Post
Thank you so much for all your hard work. You are finding some of the same things we did with the glass, what we tried to explain in the auctions. I think a lot of your issues you can be minimized by lowering your heat just a bit, as you mentioned, and as I explained in our auctions. It's the same what happened to me when I first started with the glass. This glass requires just a bit less heat than Effetre. Also, some of the transparents need to go on in thin layers. Some do bubble if they are too thick. Don't know why. Thanks again so very, very much. Best wishes, Natasha
Oh, and by the way, you are very skilled.
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  #225  
Old 2009-01-21, 3:06pm
sarah_hornik sarah_hornik is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squid View Post
the lack of orange/turquoise reaction makes me wonder what the colorants are in the rods. If they used sulphur (orange) and copper (turq) - the traditional ones - they would react. Interesting indeed.
Not sure what this means, but Satake orange/turquoise don't react either.
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  #226  
Old 2009-01-21, 3:07pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarah_hornik View Post
Not sure what this means, but Satake orange/turquoise don't react either.
really? How odd. I wonder what is used as alternatives? One of them has to be different.
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  #227  
Old 2009-01-21, 3:14pm
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There's gotta be a million and one different formulas for glass, colorants and all, that's the challenge for the guys who make em! I for one think that's kinda cool.....turquoise and orange living in harmony, like cats and dogs living together, happily.
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  #228  
Old 2009-01-21, 3:16pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squid View Post
really? How odd. I wonder what is used as alternatives? One of them has to be different.
Yeah, it's weird. The turquoise pits so I think it has copper in it, but I have no idea what they use for the orange.
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  #229  
Old 2009-01-21, 3:17pm
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selenium?
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  #230  
Old 2009-01-21, 3:20pm
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I know that selenium is used for reds... Satake orange is more of a yellow-orange, it's called "Mango" and it's probably more yellow than orange, come to think of it. The yellows don't react with turquoise either though. Satake is pretty non-reactive in general.
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  #231  
Old 2009-01-21, 3:24pm
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Great job Barb, thanks for taking the time to do this!



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  #232  
Old 2009-01-21, 3:29pm
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Thank you everyone for your replies about my test beads. I really appreciate it.

I thought the test between the orange and turquoise would be good, especially for me because I am always putting colors together that don't like each other and ending up with muddy beads.
You'd think I'd learn after all this time but no, I still do it.
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  #233  
Old 2009-01-21, 3:30pm
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In BE, Selenium is in the opaques of the reds, oranges and one of the two yellows.
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  #234  
Old 2009-01-21, 3:52pm
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Default Colorants for Batch - Orange

Orange - Cadmium sulfide + selenium (selenium like cadmium sulfide is a known carcinogen and should be handled very carefully) It is a very tricky color.
Before another thread starts on the dangers of this, when it is heated in the crucibal during the manufacturing of the glass, the molecular structure is changed.
You don't want to know what is in the rest of the glass you are working with.
Jim
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  #235  
Old 2009-01-21, 4:08pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drafly View Post
Orange - Cadmium sulfide + selenium (selenium like cadmium sulfide is a known carcinogen and should be handled very carefully) It is a very tricky color.
Before another thread starts on the dangers of this, when it is heated in the crucibal during the manufacturing of the glass, the molecular structure is changed.
You don't want to know what is in the rest of the glass you are working with.
Jim
Thanks for staying (or coming back) and sharing your knowledge Jim.
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  #236  
Old 2009-01-21, 4:10pm
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There are a lot of us here, Jim, who know exactly what we are working with and why and when they are dangerous. I think all they were trying to find out is why there was not the normal orange/turquoise reaction that is normally had.
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  #237  
Old 2009-01-21, 4:12pm
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Bubbyanne--thank you so much for your test!! Your beads are beautiful!
I look forward to seeing everyone's beads!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Drafly View Post

Questions have been asked about lead. I do not want to get into a chemistry lesson, as I am not qualified, but I hope this is helpful: Lead melts at 621 degrees F. and vaporizes (melts) at 1100 degrees F. It is not a stable flux for soda/lime glass we use, at the temperatures we obtain. Satake does have a lead rod, but one has to use a low temp. or Japanese torch to work with it. I have not used Satake, but hope to try it. When lead is present in glass, it forms a series of oxides. The principal ones being yellow,, reddish brown, orange, and black. These used to be very useful in very low temp pottery glazes. My wife claims I inhaled too much lead years ago mixing these glazes. Since lead is not a stable flux, I doubt you will find it in much glass used in lampworking today. More obtainable, and possibly cheaper alternative materials are: soda, potash, lime, magnesia and barium oxide.
Hi Jim-
Thank you so much for your test! I am curious about this glass, but will probably wait for others to test(yes, it will be my loss).
I just wanted to pop in to say that lead is used in lampworking glass. It imparts a brilliance and luster in gold ruby glass.
Bullseye posts the chemicals which are in their colors and one of them is lead:
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/education/torchtips/
One funny thing I learned in my reading of color manufacture is that guano was used to manufacture white!
Anyhoo, welcome to you and to Natasha and Daniel!
I hope you find your time here nice.
Sometimes it's hard to read people's intent because we are not talking eye to eye, but I can say that I don't think anyone meant to hurt you......sometimes our passion for glass can make things heated at times!
Anyhoo, welcome!!


Natasha--Welcome to LE!
The one statement that gave me pause to question this glass was the original eBay auction description which talked about modern manufacturers "stripping down" formulas. Thank you for clarifying your position.I would love to hear what a modern manufacturer has to say....but I know that could become a brawl and would rather not see that.
I was also curious, since there are many Indian Manufacturers like Glasstronics(M&M and Shiva too), why a google search doesn't come up with any Devardi glass? I would love to learn about the company's history, how they have shaped beadmaking in the many years they have been around. Are their other distributors too? What other countries have they introduced their glass to. Are there any famous beadmakers who use this glass? What type of torches were these formulated to?
(One reason why I ask about the torches, is that if the recipes are ancient, the working qualities of the glass may not be suitable for the hotter torches we have here in the States. Many of the older torch setups use air and the results are different. Perhaps this means it would be a great glass for use with a HH? I dunno....)

I know, that is too many questions to ask, and I apologize--I ask these questions as you say, not as a criticism, but as a means to compare your glass and decide whether it is worth bringing in another glass into the studio.

thank you!!
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  #238  
Old 2009-01-21, 4:44pm
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Hello Nagi, And, "Thank you for the warm welcome." Without getting the old chemistry books out: Many of the raw materials which are used in glass not only contain the desired oxide for which it has been included in the batch, but they will have a by-product. This is a product that will release in the form of a gas. This will happen when it reaches the decomposition point of the raw material. The chemical bonds are then broken down in the glass. Thankfully, this is done at the manufacturer. As I stated, I do not know what % of lead would be left in a glass, but I would not be afraid to use any of Bullseye's glass rods, because of the temperatures the raw materials are fired and the amount of time they are held there. I am not familiar at all with Satake lead glass. I know it has a much lower melting point.
I am not going to give you a formula for the typical soda-lime glass, but I believe Calcium Phosphate is used. It is used in most opal glass. There are probably other ones.
Later, Jim

And Pam: It used to be really scary in the stained glass industry!
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  #239  
Old 2009-01-21, 4:46pm
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Nagi, I am sorry, I should have stated in the last sentence about the soda lime glass, that Calcum Phosphate is usually used in most opals.
Jim
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  #240  
Old 2009-01-21, 4:47pm
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Sorry, I did! It has been a long day! Jim
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