Torching Sheet Glass?

[Dani]

Hi Everyone!

Haven't posted in a while, asked a question on stringer work and was told to PPP so I have, have, have. Hope to have a picture later today when I can take them out of the kiln.

For now, my question is; Anyone working with stained glass on the torch?
I started out with stained glass but found it to be a bit tedious, turns out I mostly liked buying glass, and I got really good at it, lol.

I have amassed quite a bit of;
Wissmach
Kokomo
Youghiogheny
Uroboros
Spectrum
and some Bullseye.

I purchased some of the most beautiful pieces (half sheets) at a glass show and will probably never be able to cut them.

As for the rest of it, there is so much that I would like to try them at the torch if anyone has had good results.

Can anyone tell me which if any of these are torch-able?
Some of it was so expensive that I would hate to waste it.

Any tips or suggestions where to look for information?
I searched, I swear.

Thanks in advance.

[jaci]

Cut into thin strips they should all be torchable.

Use by themselves or with other glass of the same COE (ie bullseye w/ bullseye (90); Uroboros and spectrum with 96) I don't know about the other brands you have listed. I have heard that some people slump them first (I think just to cut down in the sharp edges) and I would pre heat the strips in the kiln first i think. The other colors can be used to make single color beads, or you can research to find out the specific COE if it is available

[dclutter64]

I have fused and torched them all. Spectrum is 96. I haven't had any problem even with the non fusiable glass. Bullseye would be around 90 Coe. I have fused many fusiable and non fusiable prices together over the years without issues but you will have to do your own testing. Some of the opaque glass that are muli colored will look like crap when used in a bead. I like to melt the strips down and pull them into a rod. You will have to cut them into strips!
I have only fused, slumped or torched the same glass sheet together for all the other brands except the bullseye and spectrum.
You might want to sell it to someone that can make a beautiful stained glass piece. I have some pictures some where .

[nevadaglass]

I can't remember where I saw it, but there was a tut a while back showing beads made with stained glass pieces cut into about 1/4 inch wide strips. You can heat them up in the annealer prior to torching and then pull them out out of the annealer when ready to use and melt in the torch for very cool looking items.

[Dani]

Originally Posted by jaci

Cut into thin strips they should all be torchable.

Use by themselves or with other glass of the same COE (ie bullseye w/ bullseye (90); Uroboros and spectrum with 96) I don't know about the other brands you have listed. I have heard that some people slump them first (I think just to cut down in the sharp edges) and I would pre heat the strips in the kiln first i think. The other colors can be used to make single color beads, or you can research to find out the specific COE if it is available

I did try to find the COE of some of the glass, even contacted the companies. Some basically said that since they were not intended for use at the torch they have not tested the COE.

Slumping first sounds like a good idea. Will definitely do that.

Thanks again.

[SharonP]

Back in the Old Historic Days of American glass beadmaking, before glass rods were widely available, Kate Drew Wilkinson figured out how to make beads using strips of flat glass. Go Pioneer Girl! She still works that way, and has videos.

If you're going to mix colors, make sure all the glass is compatible. I messed around with this a long time ago, using Bullseye's 'tested compatible' fusing glass. It's an interesting process, but I'm just more comfortable with glass rods.

*sharon*

[cheng076]

We have several glass workers in the Fire and Rain chapter that work with sheet (and scrap) glass a lot. It can be done and made into some really great stuff. Now that you have PPP'd try experimenting, experimenting, experimenting...LOL

[Dani]

Originally Posted by dclutter64

I have fused and torched them all. Spectrum is 96. I haven't had any problem even with the non fusiable glass. Bullseye would be around 90 Coe. I have fused many fusiable and non fusiable prices together over the years without issues but you will have to do your own testing. Some of the opaque glass that are muli colored will look like crap when used in a bead. I like to melt the strips down and pull them into a rod. You will have to cut them into strips!
I have only fused, slumped or torched the same glass sheet together for all the other brands except the bullseye and spectrum.
You might want to sell it to someone that can make a beautiful stained glass piece. I have some pictures some where .

I was wondering about the multi colored glass, I have a lot of mottled pieces that I would not want to destroy, they are also some of the ones I could never bear to cut. Thanks for that tip.

I thought about selling some of it and some of my tools etc. Just seemed like such a hassle packing it and shipping it without breakage. Then again, I could buy more silver glass ...and bead rollers...and...

I just saw your user id, dclutter,lol. Yeah I had better work on selling some of it along with a lot of tools patterns molds books...

Would love to see pics if you find them.

Thanks again.

[Dani]

Originally Posted by SharonP

Back in the Old Historic Days of American glass beadmaking, before glass rods were widely available, Kate Drew Wilkinson figured out how to make beads using strips of flat glass. Go Pioneer Girl! She still works that way, and has videos.

If you're going to mix colors, make sure all the glass is compatible. I messed around with this a long time ago, using Bullseye's 'tested compatible' fusing glass. It's an interesting process, but I'm just more comfortable with glass rods.

*sharon*

Sharon,
Thanks for that info on the videos. I will look for those. Some of the glass is scrap, it might be worth it to try to play with that a little. Now that you mention it, it might be better to just sell it and use the material meant for torch work. Not as much experimenting = more good results in less time.

Thanks again.

[Dani]

Originally Posted by cheng076

We have several glass workers in the Fire and Rain chapter that work with sheet (and scrap) glass a lot. It can be done and made into some really great stuff. Now that you have PPP'd try experimenting, experimenting, experimenting...LOL

Now I'm torn, lol. Maybe I'll just sell the really expensive stuff and the tools and play with the solid colors....

I'll look for Fire and Rain.

Thank you.

[LarryC]

Originally Posted by Dani

I was wondering about the multi colored glass, I have a lot of mottled pieces that I would not want to destroy, they are also some of the ones I could never bear to cut. Thanks for that tip.

I thought about selling some of it and some of my tools etc. Just seemed like such a hassle packing it and shipping it without breakage. Then again, I could buy more silver glass ...and bead rollers...and...

I just saw your user id, dclutter,lol. Yeah I had better work on selling some of it along with a lot of tools patterns molds books...

Would love to see pics if you find them.

Thanks again.

The value of a lot of this glass is the patterning and color mixing that was done at the factory. I think if you torch the more expensive pieces they will ultimately lose quite a bit of value. Have you looked in your area for clubs, stores, etc? They would be good resources to resell some of it. Aside from Spectrum, Bullseye, and Uroboros, which were also intended to be fused, there is no telling what the COE will be and it will vary within the brands as well. Seems like more work to experiment with these than it would be to sell it off.

[dclutter64]

Well you can cut a narrow strip and test them to see if you like them in a bead first. The spectrum wispy or baroque glass is pretty in hollow beads. I have used some of the mottled glass by rolling the strips into coils but when I tried to make beads out of them they turned into an ugly color. They are prettier as flat glass in my opinion. You will just have to try it. You my have great results that you can share with the rest of us!

[Dani]

Originally Posted by nevadaglass

I can't remember where I saw it, but there was a tut a while back showing beads made with stained glass pieces cut into about 1/4 inch wide strips. You can heat them up in the annealer prior to torching and then pull them out out of the annealer when ready to use and melt in the torch for very cool looking items.

I'll look for the tutorial and see how much of a learning curve there is. Everyone has me thinking Maybe selling it is the best idea. My silver glass habit is a pretty expensive fix. I still have so much more to learn about torch work using glass made for that purpose. It might be a good Idea to stick with it until I have more experience. I just keep looking at all that glass and as usual was going to just jump right in... leap before you look (think Dani, think!)

Anyone know of a good source for glass packing materials? lol.

Thank you for your help.

[Dani]

Originally Posted by LarryC

The value of a lot of this glass is the patterning and color mixing that was done at the factory. I think if you torch the more expensive pieces they will ultimately lose quite a bit of value. Have you looked in your area for clubs, stores, etc? They would be good resources to resell some of it. Aside from Spectrum, Bullseye, and Uroboros, which were also intended to be fused, there is no telling what the COE will be and it will vary within the brands as well. Seems like more work to experiment with these than it would be to sell it off.

Very, very, good point! I had not given that much consideration. It is the patterning and Color combinations for which I paid a premium. Another case for selling and I like the idea of finding a store or maybe craigslist? Anything to not pack and ship.

Thank you. Big help.

[SharonP]

Here ya go!

Malcolm from Artco has all Kate's videos:

http://www.artcoinc.com/kate_drew-wilkinson.php

[lindag]

And Kate makes some beautiful beads with her flat glass. She doesn't necessarily cut them into strips either but uses hemostat like tools to hold the pieces.

[Elizabeth Beads]

I torched some variegated sheet glass from Hobby Lobby. I just cut it into strips and melted, no preheating or anything. The beads went into the kiln looking drab but the variegations showed when the beads cooled. No clue what the CoE was, just that it was "made in China." I used some 96 CoE frit with it without any problems.

Oh the black sheet glass ($5 for a 12x12" square) was an awesome dense stable black. Why can't we get that in cane?

[Donna J]

Some of my prettiest beads (imo) have come from stained glass. I just cut stips and melt. The glass is stiffer than what I usually use (Moretti) so I have more control. Just be careful, the strips are very sharp! I can't remember for sure what I've used but I think it was Wissmach and Spectrum.
Have fun!

[Lisi]

I've been doing that since I started 9 years ago. Thin rolled is easiest to cut.

[Cinnamon]

I found an article/tutorial on using stained glass strips in bead-making by Kate Drew-Wilkinson. Here's the URL address-

http://katedrew-wilkinson.com/noahte...F97/JJ0397.pdf

Enjoy reading!
Neomi

[Dreamsincolor]

One thing I learned early on about cutting the strips is not to try cutting one little strip at a time from a big sheet. You will end up with more full length strips if you cut a piece in half and then keep dividing in half till you get down to the desired width. This is especially true with the multi color and mix glasses. It also helps with the fussy ones if you start the run from each end. This gives more control to where the break ends up going.

[karin]

keep in mind that not all Spectrum is 96, just the stuff marked fusible. The rest is not tested. Same with Bullseye and Uroboros - they make both fusible (tested) and regular. So combining between sheets or between sheets and other rods may be problematic... Also, since the regular was not intended to be heated again, it may not be stable color-wise and the beautiful stuff that goes in the flame (or kiln) may not look at all the same when it comes out.

[Elizabeth Beads]

One more thing - I read somewhere not to melt the iridescent-surface sheet glass, something about the chemical reactions being toxic.

[MelanieG]

When I took my first lampworking class in 2005, I took it from a guy who used cut up sheet glass, a hardware store torch, bicycle spokes for mandrels, kiln wash instead of bead release and regular safety glasses instead of didys. I worked like that for quite a while until I realized that there was better and safer equipment out there and that I needed to repeat my beginner class with someone who had a better idea what they were doing.

I liked working with the cut sheet glass though. I liked the colours and the streakiness of the glass.

[LarryC]

Originally Posted by Oenone

When I took my first lampworking class in 2005, I took it from a guy who used cut up sheet glass, a hardware store torch, bicycle spokes for mandrels, kiln wash instead of bead release and regular safety glasses instead of didys. I worked like that for quite a while until I realized that there was better and safer equipment out there and that I needed to repeat my beginner class with someone who had a better idea what they were doing.

I liked working with the cut sheet glass though. I liked the colours and the streakiness of the glass.

[Beckah]

I sold my stained glass through Craigslist.

If you do cut your stained glass to use at the torch or slump in the kiln, make sure you clean off any glass cutter oils. Dishsoap and water works fine. But the oil can create black stains.

I have some small bowls I created with a single sheet of stained glass slumped in the kiln. That's another option for stained glass.

[28676bhe]

If you are not familiar w/cutting glass, there are plenty of people who could help you or teach you. Try the schools in your area and see if there any art teachers you could speak with.

Yes, some - repeat, some - of your glass may be used in making beads.

The highly pigmented and patterned glass will turn brown as the colors mingle unless you find out what COE it is and use a clear core and just that glass as a ribbon stripe at the last minute.

Each sheet is compatible with itself. In other words, you can use multiple cuts from the same sheet and combine them with no problems.

If you do decide to torch the glass, cut your strips as thinly as you can (1.5x the thickness is the best you can do).

It is so much easier to torch this type of glass if you bring those strips to 1300 or so in the kiln and then come back down to 900 (Bullseye and Spectrum annealing temps) holding for about 10 minutes, using a kiln washed shelf. Clean them thoroughly and just try it.

I regularly do this with dichroic glass. I cut a 10 to 12" strip of thin clear, place a piece of dichro about 8" long on it, then full fuse them together. The difference in length gives you a "handle" of clear to hold onto, and you can then use all your dichro without waste. I keep 104, 90 and 96 strips ready for beadmaking all the time.

Barbara
(about 2.5 hours from you)

[luvhotglass]

If you have any scrap glass lying around you could use that. My very first teacher taught us to use flat glass as well as rods. We made some really cool beads. Just make sure you clean the glass well and if its not long enough you could use hemostats. Oh and Don't stick the whole thing into the flame. Have fun with it and experiment.

[Lisi]

I'm going to see if I can dig up some old photos from the Wetcanvas site of the sheet glass beads I used to make. BRB!

[Lisi]

Here's some threads on Spectrum sheet glass:

http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/show...light=Spectrum
http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/show...light=Spectrum
http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/show...light=Spectrum