DAP Frit

LeahBeads · #1 2011-10-23, 9:59am

Forgive me if there's a thread some where on LE, but I couldn't find it.

I've been playing around with boro frit lately and have discovered it's difficult to strike DAP frit.

Is there anyway to strike it? I've tried striking in the flame and have also tried the kiln at 1050 for three hours. Any advice?

If you have any pictures of what it looks like, I'd love to see them.

Thanks!

Leah

Cornbread · #2 2011-10-23, 10:47am

what are you making with it? i find it difficult to turn it purple in thin "frit thickness" layers. if you are imploding it in to a pendant or something like that, put a black or dark cobalt backer on it. If you are doing beads I'm not sure what advice to give you as i've never attempted a DAP frit bead.

LarryC · #3 2011-10-23, 10:53am

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeahBeads

Forgive me if there's a thread some where on LE, but I couldn't find it.

I've been playing around with boro frit lately and have discovered it's difficult to strike DAP frit.

Is there anyway to strike it? I've tried striking in the flame and have also tried the kiln at 1050 for three hours. Any advice?

If you have any pictures of what it looks like, I'd love to see them.

Thanks!

Leah

Never tried DAP but I always kiln strike at 1150 for 30-45 minutes and then return to 1050 for annealing.

LeahBeads · #4 2011-10-23, 11:23am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cornbread

what are you making with it? i find it difficult to turn it purple in thin "frit thickness" layers. if you are imploding it in to a pendant or something like that, put a black or dark cobalt backer on it. If you are doing beads I'm not sure what advice to give you as i've never attempted a DAP frit bead.

I'm making beads and am using various colors as a base; I've tried Pom, Cobalt Light, and Yellow (warm and ely).

I haven't tried black, or other dark colors, but I would think it would be too dark, since the frit doesn't strike at all.

Leah

Cornbread · #5 2011-10-23, 11:28am

i actually remember making some simple drop pendants, I had a white base, a light light speckle of fine black frit, and loads of DAP. i got a little purple in there but still not much. but whenever i strike i do 1 hr at 1075. usually gets it in one cycle. but I want to blame the thin layer of "frit thickness" maybe lay down a thin layer of AP from a rod and then layer on some DAP frit. see if that helps. I'd do that on a white core.

LeahBeads · #6 2011-10-23, 12:16pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cornbread

i actually remember making some simple drop pendants, I had a white base, a light light speckle of fine black frit, and loads of DAP. i got a little purple in there but still not much. but whenever i strike i do 1 hr at 1075. usually gets it in one cycle. but I want to blame the thin layer of "frit thickness" maybe lay down a thin layer of AP from a rod and then layer on some DAP frit. see if that helps. I'd do that on a white core.

That's got me thinking. I wonder if I could dot on some DAP from a full rod to look like frit. I'll try that and let you know how it goes. Thanks!

Leah

LeahBeads · #7 2011-10-23, 3:29pm

I was just checking out the Tag website. Does anyone know if Purple Sage would give me the purples, greens, ambers that I'm looking for?

Leah

Baywinger · #8 2011-10-23, 4:08pm

Leah
I have gotten Dap frit to strike both on the surface and in an implosion
I torch strike it and I find you need to get it white hot just below bubbling in a well oxygenated flame you can see the metallic surface turn transparent
here is a DAP implosion

LeahBeads · #9 2011-10-23, 4:38pm

That's beautiful! I'm looking for that whispiness.

If I'm encasing, would I strike it white hot before or after encasing?

Leah

Baywinger · #10 2011-10-23, 7:03pm

I did for the implosion, you need to make sure you do not bring the metal back up to the surface as you encase it otherwise it will so green and hazy.
Until this piece I was ready to toss all of my dap frit in frustration, this one was my breakthrough piece

Firebrand Beads · #11 2011-10-26, 10:54am

Leah, FWIW... the Purple Sable tends to give lots of blues and purples, but not so much green. It's an unusual A/P, with that coffee colored base and a slight sparkle.
The Mai Tai family is A/P too; they tend to more pinks, and some purples, but I have seen people get all kinds of colors out of it. Sasha's Oil Slick is A/P as well, but that one we like to strike color ON the haze rather than burning it off.
The Apricot and Yellow Elvis are also amber/purples, these tend to give more of the greens and such.
And we have some of what Paul calls "OG A/P" which is his original A/P recipe done here at TAG

LeahBeads · #12 2011-10-26, 11:03am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Firebrand Beads

Leah, FWIW... the Purple Sable tends to give lots of blues and purples, but not so much green. It's an unusual A/P, with that coffee colored base and a slight sparkle.
The Mai Tai family is A/P too; they tend to more pinks, and some purples, but I have seen people get all kinds of colors out of it. Sasha's Oil Slick is A/P as well, but that one we like to strike color ON the haze rather than burning it off.
The Apricot and Yellow Elvis are also amber/purples, these tend to give more of the greens and such.
And we have some of what Paul calls "OG A/P" which is his original A/P recipe done here at TAG

Thanks for that, Jenny. I've got a rod of each coming to me, so I'll get to play with them soon. I love pink, so I'm hoping to get that from the Mai Tais.

I also ordered the Purple Sable frit and I'm hoping to get some beautiful results from it.

Are the colors pretty easy to get?

Leah

LarryC · #13 2011-10-26, 11:18am

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeahBeads

Are the colors pretty easy to get?

Leah

This stuff shines if you mix in some reduction. Lots of color variation that way.