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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #31  
Old 2015-03-24, 6:11pm
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Speedslug Speedslug is offline
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I have to second the idea of getting another hothead and just switching tank & torch pairs back and forth while you wait for the first one to thaw out. That is until you can go to an oxygen / fuel setup anyway.

But I also have to encourage folks new to the addiction that this is not like learning to play the piano or the guitar.
You are not going to pick up bad habits that are going to be really hard to unlearn later.
There are a few things that you can learn to do that can get in your way later on but they will be pretty easy to unlearn and leave behind once someone shows you a better way.
And, who knows, you may develop a new technique that no one else has thought of before.
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  #32  
Old 2015-03-26, 8:32pm
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Katia - those beads are a great start!! Very nice shape and ends
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  #33  
Old 2015-03-27, 11:42am
Katia Katia is offline
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2DogsPhoto, thank you but you are far too kind I see what is wrong (probably there's even more that I don't yet see). Will try to go your way, it should help, I know that planned approach works better both for the skills and cashflow *why there's no thread "How many kilogramms (pounds) of glass a beginner needs to satisfy the "startup euphoria"?* LOL
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  #34  
Old 2015-03-27, 5:14pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Katia View Post
2DogsPhoto, thank you but you are far too kind I see what is wrong (probably there's even more that I don't yet see). Will try to go your way, it should help, I know that planned approach works better both for the skills and cashflow *why there's no thread "How many kilogramms (pounds) of glass a beginner needs to satisfy the "startup euphoria"?* LOL
Because the answer is 'all of it' Lol!!
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  #35  
Old 2015-03-30, 5:53pm
xynofin xynofin is offline
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I have found that with a HH and the small bottles that you only get about an hour or so before the pressure drops in the tank. (about 45 min for a half full tank). It has to do with the pressure of the gas in the tank, it super cools it and causes the pressure to go down while you use it. And Poof, no more flame. You have two options, (well 3 really) 1: get an adapter to run the HH off of a bulk tank. 2: get a second HH and have it ready on a second tank and just switch between the two every hour. or 3: just plan on getting an hour to an hour and a half out of a full tank before it sputters on you.

Personally, I have been playing beat the clock but I don't think that is a good plan when you are a beginner (which I most def am). I think it would be nice to have sufficient time to finish a piece and not worry about how long I have to do it in. But anyways thats just my 2c.

OOOhhh and if you decide to do the two tank two HH setup, don't keep your second HH and tank on the bench right next to where you are working, that just sounds like an accident waiting to happen.
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  #36  
Old 2015-03-31, 12:45pm
Katia Katia is offline
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Xynofin, my impression is about the same - one hour or so and then the flame becomes cooler. I think switching to a small BBQ will make a difference (won't convert it to two gas burner but anyway - will improve the torch time and most probably - the efficiency).

But adaptor (fitting) is not the only thing required - flashback arrestor at least after the adaptor at the torch side, hose rated accordingly and the regulator. I saw some messages here (and not only here) that HH does not need a regulator. Probably yes (I am not sure - if there is dirt from the gas that was not burnt at this temperature - even the small canister provides more gas than necessary, there is just no opportunity for fine tune) but it is the tank that does need the regulator. The full tank pressure (normally) is about nice&round 300 psi (20 bars). Not 100 or 200 that are usually mentioned (in reality the small can pressure varies so that it is nearly impossible to measure it). If the tank is overfilled a bit or there is too hot - well - it goes up. And this pressure can not be delivered directly in the hose - this is where chances of Mega "BOOM" grow dramatically. It seems that regulated reduction of pressure from 30 and up to 60 psi works for HH users across the world. But even 60 psi is a pretty serious pressure. the sad thing about warming up the canister is that it is not the bottom side that freezes, it is the upper, shoulder side. Steel distributes the heat from the water so some heat if the canister is in placed in the warm water will reach the top of the canister and help but this is one more variable in pressure/temperature/consumption function - pressure controlled at the tank is more constant and reliable (properly observed, stored, checked, etc).

Probably it is more about safety "LOL" but I do feel the same - too short before getting cooler and cooler..
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  #37  
Old 2015-03-31, 1:52pm
LarryC LarryC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Katia View Post
Xynofin, my impression is about the same - one hour or so and then the flame becomes cooler. I think switching to a small BBQ will make a difference (won't convert it to two gas burner but anyway - will improve the torch time and most probably - the efficiency).

But adaptor (fitting) is not the only thing required - flashback arrestor at least after the adaptor at the torch side, hose rated accordingly and the regulator. I saw some messages here (and not only here) that HH does not need a regulator. Probably yes (I am not sure - if there is dirt from the gas that was not burnt at this temperature - even the small canister provides more gas than necessary, there is just no opportunity for fine tune) but it is the tank that does need the regulator. The full tank pressure (normally) is about nice&round 300 psi (20 bars). Not 100 or 200 that are usually mentioned (in reality the small can pressure varies so that it is nearly impossible to measure it). If the tank is overfilled a bit or there is too hot - well - it goes up. And this pressure can not be delivered directly in the hose - this is where chances of Mega "BOOM" grow dramatically. It seems that regulated reduction of pressure from 30 and up to 60 psi works for HH users across the world. But even 60 psi is a pretty serious pressure. the sad thing about warming up the canister is that it is not the bottom side that freezes, it is the upper, shoulder side. Steel distributes the heat from the water so some heat if the canister is in placed in the warm water will reach the top of the canister and help but this is one more variable in pressure/temperature/consumption function - pressure controlled at the tank is more constant and reliable (properly observed, stored, checked, etc).

Probably it is more about safety "LOL" but I do feel the same - too short before getting cooler and cooler..
Interesting.
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  #38  
Old 2015-03-31, 2:22pm
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allicat allicat is offline
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I do all my stuff on a HH. I just garage my work when the MapPro canister gets frozen. A careful reintroduction to a low flame when the canister is warmed back up, and once it takes the flame, I crank it up & I'm off n running.

I do find it amusing I have to let a tool which produces a 2,000* flame warm up so I can continue to use it...
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  #39  
Old 2015-03-31, 2:35pm
Katia Katia is offline
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LarryC, my father was teaching students at the Power Engineering university in the area of gas and steam industial turbo constructions (sorry for this wording, English is not my mother tongue), so I had to listen to some basics since being a child.

The general rule was and for me still is - on the weakest side (which is not a brass fitting - it can withstand 10* overload, may get too hot, may even weld to the torch - still it will be far from deforming, but it is hose - it can be potentially a weak spot) you need 3 times of your imaginable workload but 5 times are better "LOL".
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  #40  
Old 2015-03-31, 2:45pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eileen View Post
I have heard of people somehow rigging up a bucket of warm water with the torch sitting in it, but I have no idea how to safely do it.
Deann (theglasszone) had a great picture of what she had rigged, but I can't seem to find it. I had a big old insulated cup that I attached with a coat hanger.
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