Boro murrini recipes

saraconklin · #1 2013-05-28, 3:44pm

got any suggestions? I tried a center core of Andromeda, Parramore peach, double mai thai and then stripes of blue moon, ugh! blah! these "striking" murrini never did get purple no matter how much I struck. I struck out.

I would like to make some boro murrini but need some advice. what combos have worked well for you. thank you for the help. sara

istandalone24/7 · #2 2013-05-29, 3:04am

i'd like to know the same thing. i made a few canes the same way i make soft glass murrini....came out like shit and looks like crap when applied.

todda · #3 2013-05-29, 7:48pm

http://bodaciousglassbeads.wordpress...color-recipes/

saraconklin · #4 2013-05-29, 10:36pm

Thanks for the link, i have seen this list and been working from it for a while. What i am specifically looking for are suggestions about composing murrini with maybe 3-4 color layers. i can probably sus out the info from this list, just wondering what others have already figured out. i know the principle that you go for highly contrasted colors next to each other which is easy with the transparent and opaques that look like the color of the rod. i'd like to play with the weird colors that come out with striking or reduction glass that give you no hint of their eventual color. am i babbling? thanks again.

istandalone24/7 · #5 2013-05-30, 5:34am

i actually managed to get a boro milli to look decent on a marble last night. although it's the cane i made a few months ago and the colors don't contrast enough, i think i've got a better grasp on how to apply them to boro.

i'm going to make another cane either tonight or tomorrow, if it comes out good, you're welcome to some of it if you'd like, i could mail it out to you.

saraconklin · #6 2013-05-30, 10:34am

Well, aren't you the nicest person on the planet, thank you so much. At this point i am focused on trying to make the mili. Today i will try and add the pitiful ones i made onto a bead since it sounds like that isn't simple either. when we figure out some cool recipes maybe we can trade canes. glad to have a new boro friend. i will probably be in touch about applying them later. i have a video to watch, hey, maybe i will start with that!!!!!

istandalone24/7 · #7 2013-05-30, 11:45am

my (limited) experience with applying boro milli is to use the stick and snap method. when using "slices" and putting them on like you would soft glass it seems the sharp edges get boiled easily.

Liquidsand · #8 2013-05-30, 3:15pm

Colors with a lot of silver and striking properties are not great for murrini. It is true that more contrast makes for better looking designs, otherwise things get blurry.
However if you use of one the colors with a very small touch of silver they can add a nice wispy accent.

Here's one of my favorite basic starting points:
Center - Borostix White (worked into a round 6mm rod.)
First Layer - Parramore Peach or Borostix Blush (Striped around the white and melted smooth, as with each subsequent layer)
Second Layer - GA Sienna or Erbium Pink
Third Layer - GA Grape, Black Violet, or NS Turbo Amethyst
Accent Color - Momka Silver Iris, NS Yellow, or GA Singular Passion

-Once the base layer is melted down smooth and round, let it cool a bit before applying the next layer. It is important to stripe the next color on hot enough so that you don't have to push into the base, distorting the shape and blurring the edges of your concentric circles. Repeat for each layer, puntying up to both sides while melting in to keep a symmetrical shape.

-Pull finished cane down to 4-6mm, keeping as straight & even as possible.

-Bench cool, then with disc nippers or scoring tool cut into at least six or seven sections of equal length, discarding the very ends of the cane, which will be distorted from the pull.

-Punty up to one section and warm slowly in the flame, it's more shocky now than regular rod. Stripe on a layer of any color (experiment) and melt smooth, keeping the length consistent with the other sections.

-Using tweezers, pick up each cane section and tack them on evenly around the center section. It helps to use a stringer of clear as a glue to keep the sections in place on either end.

-When it's all tacked together, start warming the whole thing. You can paddle or marver gently.

-Use a stripe or two of the accent color in the space between each section to keep them all in place. Be careful not to trap air; use smaller diameter rod and/or lay it on very hot, so it completely fills the empty space.

-Punty up to the other side and melt it in smooth. Keep the stripes straight, don't twist it up while pulling.

Pull down to a 8mm cane and bench cool or anneal. You can use it as is, and also keep a section as the core of your next cane.

Slice into murrini with disc nippers (in the sink, keeping everything wet.)

To apply, soften a spot with a focused flame where you're going to apply the murrine, hold it with tweezers, flash in the flame, and apply, pushing it in to the base with a brass paddle. Heat gently and slowly to prevent boiling the edges. You can also put a dollop of clear on it if you're encasing the final design. Even if you prefer the stick&snap, you should practice applying slices to have more versatility, such as being able to do implosions on tubing.

Sorry, that got really long.
Maybe I should have just listed the colors.

saraconklin · #9 2013-05-31, 8:12pm

Center core of Andromeda, Parramore peach, double mai thai and then stripes of blue moon. this is the recipe for the murrini in the 3 beads, i take what is left of the dog bone, ok, ok, i know if i have completely gotten a deep heat in the bugger there will be no dog bone but, i made lemonade by making twistie material out of what is left and then putting that into the bead. Torch down, San Francisco! i digress. the container shows how i log my murrini so that i can see, right away, how awesome or belch they are. i write the recipe on the side and have the white maria with the goods in the box too. this trick is thanks to Rene Jet Age Studio and Haley from envision taught me about making the twisties from dog bones. I implanted the murrini in disc form, not snapping. worked fine.

Sadly, i have yet to get the hang of boro encasement without bubble threads.

saraconklin · #10 2013-05-31, 8:13pm

sorry, the core is Parramor Peach and the next layer is Andromeda

saraconklin · #11 2013-06-01, 10:05am

thank you so much for the wonderful long version of your directions, i find that it helps a lot. i will try your mix today. the only color i don't have is GA Sienna or Eribum Pink. i do have some borostix pink and will try that. i also have Parramor Pink but it is very light -- and lovely -- as compared to the borostix pink, which is a bit more saturated but maybe stronger is better. don't know if i will try the compound murrini just yet, wow, just getting a singular murrini put together seems like a challenge still. thank you so much. sara

wanted to mention that this first recipe i posted had striking glass in it and it didn't strike worth beans, the reducing blue moon gave some nice effects. i will stick to the basic transparent and opaque colors for now unless somebody tells me about adding some snazzy stuff with another recipe.

Mary K · #12 2013-06-01, 5:35pm

As far as boro murinni goes, I cheat. I just buy Momka floral and stripey canes and add to them or use as they are. And always get good results. Momka is one of my favorite glasses. Love Momka.

saraconklin · #13 2013-06-01, 7:27pm

I have made Martha's murrini recipe with a few changes since i didn't have all the glass, will make some bead babies and see how they do, yay.

Mary K you are a genius. the Gerber series from Momka makes half the cane already, just add a few extra layers. you smartie, thanks for that.

Mary K · #14 2013-06-09, 6:02am

Ok Sara, here's another one for you and for anyone who does floral compression.
I have had best results with MP blue treasure & antique beauty. Punty up either cane (just like it is,no additions) to a 9mm clear punty. Then using glass nippers cut off about an inch of the MPcane. Warm it up in the back of the flame. Attach a 4mm clear to end, focus flame away from that end as the 4 will get too hot, it's small remember. When it is soft enough, twist like mad the 4 mm and pull but not too fast, make a very tight twisty this way. Use this twisty for petals on flower compression, and you will not believe your results. MP is the genius, not me. Love Momka glass. It has many secrets yet to be discovered and revealed.

Liquidsand · #15 2013-06-09, 7:01am

Any pictures of your recent attempts Sara?

I haven't checked in for a while, but I meant to point out that sparkle colors don't seem to work well in murrini; it seems to make the lines a little fuzzy. You want high contrast colors for more clarity once the image size is reduced, offset with a few layers that transition for that "blended" look (white ->pink->dark pink) especially for florals.

The silver colors only seem to work for me if they are very light on the effects. The heavy colors, like Silver Strike and Blue Moon for example, tend to muddy up the works. Often a transparent layer in between your color layers can help delineate the patterns and makes for a cool 3D effect as well.

Mary - I was curious about that petal thing; suspected it was a twisty but I couldn't tell for sure.

Liquidsand · #16 2013-06-09, 7:12am

Sorry for the poor quality closeups, bad bad camera.

...and a bead...

saraconklin · #17 2013-06-09, 3:25pm

your murrini are like little precious paperweights. wow, i am really impressed. i thought i had a photo of my attempt #2 but can't find it. my studio is 99 degrees now and so i will go out later when it cools off. wow, summer hit with a passion here in the Sierra's. thanks for your encouragement and interest.