Question on Skeleton Keys

Barbie Doll · #1 2010-03-19, 3:57am

I purchased some skeleton keys awhile back…not from anyone on Lampwork Etc….and when I went to try and make a bead on it, the glass wouldn’t stick to it.

Does anyone know why?

What kind of metal will NOT allow glass to adhere to it?

What kind of metal WILL allow glass to adhere to it?

Now I’m stuck with some skeleton keys that I can’t make beads on.

Thanks very much if you know the answer.

ez2remember · #2 2010-03-19, 4:26am

Haven't had this happen before, but I have had several skeleton keys melt in the flame as if they were made of solder....

Definitely not an expert on the subject, but glass will not stick to brass, hence we have brass tools.

edz

jaci · #3 2010-03-19, 4:31am

you may not be getting the key hot enough. I have made hundreds of keys. It really has to be HOT. But some glass will bubble this way. so be careful.

PS Solder sucks! So do the OLD OLD keys with hollow barrels and 100 years of crud to burn out!

Elizabeth Beads · #4 2010-03-19, 6:56am

I use a thin layer of bead release on mine, painted on with a brush. I like my beads to slide on the keys. I have made a few static but they have more of a tendency to crack because of incompatibility with or expansion and contraction of the key metal.

BellaBean · #5 2010-03-19, 7:35am

I do the same as Erose. I use a paintbrush and add a layer of bead release most of the time. I like the fact that the beads are loose afterwards and I can fiddle with them. I've made them without bead release too. You have to get both the key and the glass REALLY hot (like dripping all over the place hot!) for your first wind. After that, you can lessen the heat to a managable level.

squid · #6 2010-03-19, 9:57am

I just dip the whole key, but if you really want to attach it directly to the key, the metal has to be hot enough for the glass to stick.

playswithfire104 · #7 2010-03-19, 10:08am

how hard is it to get the bead realese cleaned out?

squid · #8 2010-03-19, 10:11am

not hard at all. I just rub the inside of the bead against the key and most of it comes out that way.

playswithfire104 · #9 2010-03-19, 1:17pm

Thanks. I always made the bead right on the key. One I have been wearing the bead came lose and I find myself playing with it. So I think I'll make them with bead realease.

MerryFool · #10 2010-03-19, 1:25pm

I like the idea of the bead being able to move...I think it amazes folks to wonder, which came first? The key or the Bead? and "How'd you get that bead on there?!?"

tammydownunder · #11 2010-03-19, 3:54pm

A trick I learned to determine whether the keys will work in the flame is to use a magnet. If the key sticks to the magnet, you're good to go.

Firebrand Beads · #12 2010-03-19, 4:03pm

Good one Tammy!

playswithfire104 · #13 2010-03-19, 4:31pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by tammydownunder

A trick I learned to determine whether the keys will work in the flame is to use a magnet. If the key sticks to the magnet, you're good to go.

Good to know.

hannahbeads · #14 2010-03-20, 6:45am

I'd like to know from everyone how large (long) the keys are. I've made a few, but they seem so big to wear. Also, do you clean them? and if you do, how?

Thanks!!
Shelly

jaci · #15 2010-03-20, 7:24am

I make keys of all sizes. My fav's are the tiny ones!! But they are harder to find. I wear them in multiples usually when they are tiny.

Cleaning keys.... umm if they are grungy. you can tumble them in sand or shot. that will get most of it off, and then soak them in something strong to get any grease or oil off. I also dremel them with a wire brush after I fire them to get the soot off, and any residual gunk, and then spay them with a clear coat (not the bead) to avoid any rust/metal residue on clothes and skin. They last forever! I also make the beads right on the key. have not had much problems, but i do garage them longer, just to let the metal settle.

jessicajane · #16 2010-03-20, 7:40am

Jaci,
What type of clear coat do you spray them with?

playswithfire104 · #17 2010-03-20, 7:42am

I soaked a bunch in CLR. That helped to clean them up. I know a lot of people use renasance (sp) wax to seal them. As for length I've had guys buy longer ones to wear.

krisb16 · #18 2010-03-20, 8:23am

Quote:

Originally Posted by tammydownunder

A trick I learned to determine whether the keys will work in the flame is to use a magnet. If the key sticks to the magnet, you're good to go.

Good tip! Works for many keys, except brass. I like the brass one sometimes with copper embellishments.

MerryFool · #19 2010-03-20, 8:24am

Ooh! Thanks for the tip on CLR, Nancy!

krisb16 · #20 2010-03-20, 8:28am

Quote:

Originally Posted by playswithfire104

I soaked a bunch in CLR. That helped to clean them up. I know a lot of people use renasance (sp) wax to seal them. As for length I've had guys buy longer ones to wear.

Do you do this before you put the bead on to clean off the gunk or after to clean off the bead release? I usually tumble off the rust before. I soak in water and use a brass/steel brush to clean off after they come out of the kiln. I use a little WD-40 for a light seal.

Who sells Renaissance Wax? I'd like to find some. I am really enjoying the little keys, too. The smaller the better.

playswithfire104 · #21 2010-03-20, 9:11am

I soak them first to clean them up. Then rinse real well. I think you can find the wax on amazon and eBay. I'm starting to like the tiny keys more and more. One other thing - I have had luck making heart beads in the keys. Kinda like a key to my heart thing.

Gail Kops · #22 2010-03-20, 9:43am

OK...never tried this before, but wondered - do you attach the keys to something or hold them with a special mandrel? How do you turn them in the flame?

Or...someone hit with me a stupid stick!

krisb16 · #23 2010-03-20, 10:56am

Jevelah sells a nice key holder, and it's not too expensive. Some people use hemostats. If you have a barrel key and the barrel is close to the size of a mandrel, you can use the mandrel to hold it as you make the bead--this is my favorite.

First I dip the end of the mandrel in bead release and stick it in the barrel. Let it dry (or flame dry, if your release will do that). Once that's good & dry, dip the whole key in the bead release and let it dry. A friend passed this tip on to me and I was like, "Duh! That makes so much sense!" I'm not so handy with hemostats, and with Jevelah's you can only do one at a time, so this works best for me.

krisb16 · #24 2010-03-20, 10:57am

So what is the tiniest key anyone has found to make a bead on? Pictures?

playswithfire104 · #25 2010-03-20, 12:07pm

I use my Merikal to hold them. The Merikal is my favorite because you can turn it like turning a rod. Where as using hemostats or something with handles like that are too hard for me to turn evenly.

CO_Phantom · #26 2010-03-20, 4:20pm

A Merikal?

What's that?

-Amy

jaci · #27 2010-03-21, 5:39am

Quote:

Originally Posted by jessicajane

Jaci,
What type of clear coat do you spray them with?

just the stuff in a can for clear coating artwork, paintings.. the finish coat or something. nothing special

Gail You can punty up to the end of the key with a rod of boro, or even soft glass. Its a bit harder to keep the soft glass from cracking, and loosing your key, but totally possible. This is the nicest way for me. Its hard to constantly turn a hemostat and keep everything even, and its a toll on your hands. When you punty up to a rod it is easy to turn because it feels like nothing but a rod. It really is just an extension of the rod, just be sure to center it for the best rotation.

teachertracey · #28 2010-03-21, 6:49am

I just use a hemostat to hold them. That way I pop the whole key into the kiln on the mandrel holder. I can then use the hemostat to do yet another key. I've had four or more keys in the kiln that way.

I dip the whole key bottom in release. It flakes right off or you can get the thicker layers off with soaking and/or the Dremel.

I tried WD40 and Naval Jelly to clean the keys. Best solution so far is Renaissance Wax. It works beautifully.

playswithfire104 · #29 2010-03-21, 7:53am

This thread discusses the merickal and I think gives an e-mail to contact the maker.

http://lampworketc.com/forums/showth...light=Merickal

I thought they were a little over priced but I use one EVERY time I torch. I have heard that to find the 'real' price of something is to divide the cost by how often you use it. Like if you see a pair of $100 shoes on sale for $50 and think they are such a bargin but only wear them once they cost $50. Now if you bought a pair of $100 shoes and wear them 200 times they really cost .50 cents per wear. Does that make any sense? As often as I use my merickals I thi k they have paid for themselves by now! I literaly use them EVERY time I get on the torch. Great for holding shorts and you can turn them just like turning a rod. I don't like hemostats and such because of the handle - it is too akward for me to use and get good results

likes to make glass stuff · #30 2010-03-21, 9:56am

take a 3/32 mandrel. Get a hinge that will stay on it when folded. fold hinge over mandrel after placing key so that the hole in the top end of the key is where one of the screws would go on the hinge. close hinge. put bolt and wingnut through hole in key.

it's off balace, but cost less than $3.