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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2018-06-27, 5:07am
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eregel eregel is offline
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Default Any compatability issues I should know about?

I've been almost totally soft glass since I started in 2012, but after a week long class with Deb Crowley on her Aquatics I'm actually lighting my big torch and playing with Boro.

I don't have a whole lot of boro on hand, and want to place an order, but wanted to ask here first if there are any known compatibility issues between different manufacturers. I know in soft glass there are brands that simply don't play well with others, and colors that are more difficult; but I'm clueless in the boroverse.

So, any advice? Things to stay away from? Must haves? At the moment I'm hopelessly in love with DAP - it's not just a summer thing - but given that I'm planning to do a lot of small sculptural pieces from nature I need to broaden my horizons.
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  #2  
Old 2018-06-27, 6:56am
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Have fun! I have nothing constructive on the color issue. I have heard that some white and some green can be picky about encasing, but it's just rumor at this point, and I have no specifics.
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  #3  
Old 2018-06-27, 7:32am
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My boro guru says too that green does not like to be encased, even as frit. If you must encase some, use on a very little bit. I am about to start working with some too. I got a stash recently, and am clueless! I do have a Mountain Glass catalog from a couple of years ago that has working notes for the glass available at that time. It seems to me like boro comes and goes much faster than soft glass in terms of what's available, and some of this stash I got is very old.
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Old 2018-06-27, 4:23pm
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I've found this chart I copied from the TMP site useful for encasement/murrine work.
http://www.talkglass.com/forum/showt...ne+Color+chart Under the first post click on the " MurrineColorChart-4.pdf " link and it will take you to the PDF file.

Most of the boro glass makers products are compatible with each other though there are some that do have problems being incased. As mentioned before a lot of the greens will cause cracking when encased but not all of them as you can see by the green stems on flower implosions.
Also some of the reds, oranges, blacks, whites, etc, the Cadmium colors will boil if worked to hot in the beginning. They must be worked further out in the cooler part of the flame to start with and can be brought into the hotter flame after they become red hot.
As for glass companies I mainly use Glass Alchemy, NorthStar, and Momka. There are quite a few other companies out there now and more popping up all the time though. Some of the smaller companies are making really nice colors but they are not cheap.
I tend to shy away from Chinese glass because I have problems with it cracking and breaking more often than not. Though it's most likely due to my not taking the time to learn how to work it as I see other folks using it all the time with good success.
Simax is the best clear glass for me, though I use Schott clear for most non optical things.
That's all for now.

Last edited by Shaper; 2018-06-29 at 11:37am.
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  #5  
Old 2018-06-27, 6:58pm
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Shaper, just the file location on your computer came through, can you try again?
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  #6  
Old 2018-06-27, 7:13pm
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Stay away from seconds, they may be iffy. Odds are good for saving some $$. Most green doesn't like long garaging and/or higher temps. There are a few exceptions. Read the manufacturers notes. Some of the opalescent moonstone like colors really do need a higher garage and anneal. Like the Molten Aura glass. even if used by itself it needs to be hotter than normal boro.
So there is glass you won't be able to use together with the same program, but it's pretty few and far between.
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  #7  
Old 2018-06-28, 6:23am
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Old, original, Uranium is one or two COE off from 33. If you mix it with clear you should be OK, if you run across some, not made anymore that I know of.

The TAG slymes don’t like to be encased. “Slyme is known to have a slightly higher COE...” they claim it will work with other colors but I’ve had problems with it. I wouldn’t put anything over it.
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  #8  
Old 2018-06-28, 6:41am
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Thanks so much, all! I'm sure I'm going to have more questions as I get into this. I'm still at the "rod is okay-ish... but tubing is the devil stage. (I was told at class that I need to suck it up and burn through a full case of heavy wall tubing, and once I've wasted the $$$ and the time I'll have a reasonable handle on it - though mastery will take years.)

I just placed a huge frit order - it's this week's sale on Mountain Glass Arts, so I snapped a bunch up while it was 30% off. I think I'm going to hold off a little while on ordering color rod. In the process of a major studio clean up & reorg to make working 2 COE's a little easier I found that I've accumulated a collection of labeled shorts of various colors, gifted by Secret Santas. It would make sense to spend a couple of weeks working my systematically through those, and through the 20-30 loose rods I've picked up at Glass Stock East venues and Pittsburgh Glass Center. It makes more sense to postpone a big order until I know what I actually LIKE, and have a better feel for what I'll use. And maybe can catch a sale - this stuff is expensive.
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Last edited by eregel; 2018-06-28 at 6:44am.
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  #9  
Old 2018-06-28, 7:21am
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Just saw a thread on FB about good prices for clear rod & tubing. Beats sale prices of regular outlets: http://www.sci-techglassblowing.com/...0Wall%20Tubing

Link to the discussion: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Torc...h/?query=Pyrex
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Last edited by KA; 2018-06-28 at 7:28am.
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  #10  
Old 2018-06-29, 11:33am
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Sorry about that. I removed that link and added a new one. It will take you to a page about color and in the first post is a link to a PDF file called " MurrineColorChart-4.pdf "
Which has quite a bit of info.
Hope it helps.


Hi Dave just wanted to let you know that I use green slyme instead of white for my implosions, works really well with no problems. Not sure about the other slymes though.

Last edited by Shaper; 2018-07-04 at 12:20pm.
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  #11  
Old 2018-07-03, 7:32pm
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The forum software is still mangling the link. Try this, it's to the same post, just with a shorter link that might survive:

https://bit.ly/2tSIJ1F
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Old 2018-07-04, 12:19pm
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Thanks Tom. That gets me there. Strange that I changed the link in the first post and it works but the second link posted doesn't work and they were the same.
Very strange.
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Old 2018-07-18, 11:27am
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Pat, it's not that hard to start making things with tubing. The very first thing I made with tubing was one of Deb Crowley's shells, and it was easy. You don't have to burn through a case before you learn. While you're still getting into boro don't worry about tubing, and then once you feel like you're ready I'll write you up some tubing exercises to get you started.
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  #14  
Old 2018-08-07, 7:57pm
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I was told that if I plan on encasing green or anything that sparkles I should garage at 975. I haven't had a problem with any green since then. Anything with a heavy chromium content will not do well if you garage higher than that. I know it didn't for me. Long garage times at 975 can become a problem also. It seems like that's more of a problem for the sparkly stuff though. Obviously you don't want to overwork them either.
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