My almost complete hood

rjw69215 · #1 2010-03-19, 6:42am

Had corken steel make me a hood, $108.00 not bad. Have a 740 CFM in line fan. Almost done with the room, have to seal it up real good since it is in basement. Made glass holders out of 1 1/4 in thin walled PVC. Hopefully it will be done by next week. My Glasshive kiln came yesterday....waaa hoooo

glasshobbit · #2 2010-03-19, 7:21am

Looks good.

Dale M. · #3 2010-03-19, 7:47am

Interesting concept..... Only thing I question is there should be at least 10 linear feet distance from where your exhaust exits to where your fresh air intake is located (yes even around corners).... It does not appear in your picture you have that separation...

The reason for the separation is so there is plenty of space for the dilution of gasses expelled from your hood and that they are not sucked in to your fresh air intake.....

Also since its a basement, here is something to read, it may alert you to some issues you have not thought about....

http://www.artglassanswers.com/forum...php?f=12&t=430

Dale

rjw69215 · #4 2010-03-19, 9:59am

Yea, that was the big concern. There is about 12 feet between the intake and the outgoing exhaust. It actuall goes out of the room and out another window. The one you see coming in is the fresh air intake. I'll post a couple of more Picts.

rjw69215 · #5 2010-03-19, 10:16am

Here are 2 more pictures that I hope explains better. The room is not complete yet so there is going to be drywall over the spot in the back where the exhaust is running thru. The other picture shows where both the exhaust and the fresh air makeup are coming in and going out of the basement. I did read that article on basement setups and it did concern me, but I am going to make the room as air tight as I possibly can so I don't suck any fumes from my hotwater heater or my HVAC system. If you have any other suggesstions for me that would be fantastic.

Dale M. · #6 2010-03-19, 12:27pm

Looking good so far..... Glad to see you are aware of the dangers of basement studio and taking precautions to prevent any problem.... Will be interesting to see what a smoke test shows about how your ducting arrangement is working...

Dale

NMLinda · #7 2010-03-20, 11:14am

Clever arrangement. I'm intrigued by your glass storage - unique. Did you screw the pvc tubes to the plywood backer?

rjw69215 · #8 2010-03-20, 12:49pm

Yea I cut 1 1/4 inch PVC in 5 inch sections. I drilled a small hole all the way thru (small enough for a 1 1/2 inch drywall screw to fit) then I drilled a larger hole only thru the one side so I could get the entire screw thru the hole to attach it to the wall. The reason the small hole gets drilled all the way thru both sides is that it makes it easier to know where the big hole goes on the one side (just making one of the small holes bigger). I hope this makes sense, I tend to ramble.

rjw69215 · #9 2010-03-20, 12:52pm

I'd probably use the thicker walled PVC if I did it again, the thin walled likes to crack if the drill bit isn't really sharp.

NMLinda · #10 2010-03-20, 2:51pm

Makes perfect sense - thought you might have drilled a pilot hole all the way through and then a clearance hole on one side, but it was hard to see from the picture. Cool idea

Linda

rjw69215 · #11 2010-03-22, 4:50pm

Did my smoke test, it went great. Got the back of the hood/room closed up, got my first bracelet (made with cricket) in the kiln. Made a new mandrel holder, it holds 45 smaller mandrels and 30 pandora size mandrels. Very excited here in Cincinnati area.....

rjw69215 · #12 2010-03-22, 4:54pm

Just looked closer at the picture, mandrel holder holds 60 smaller mandrels and 30 pandora....much easier then sticking them in the vermiculite..

laserglass · #13 2010-03-23, 4:34am

the outlet duct is too small for the face area you have. bringing in the make up air as you do, you direct the hot/moist or cold outside air (depending upon the time of the year) directly at you and your flame and you effectively reduce the ventilation as your ventilation fan spends lots of time sucking out the outside air directly.

Dale M. · #14 2010-03-23, 7:34am

Quote:

Originally Posted by laserglass

the outlet duct is too small for the face area you have. bringing in the make up air as you do, you direct the hot/moist or cold outside air (depending upon the time of the year) directly at you and your flame and you effectively reduce the ventilation as your ventilation fan spends lots of time sucking out the outside air directly.

I believe that is the concept.... To circulate fresh air into "work area" but not pull massive amounts of "conditioned" (heat/cooled) studio air out of room....

Dale

rjw69215 · #15 2010-03-23, 8:04am

Yes, that's exactly how it is working. Might I say it is working great. It is exhausting thru 8 inch and make up air is coming back in thru 8 inch split into 2 6 inch. I couldn't be happier with it. The room stays cool/hot depending and the air gets sucked into the hood just at the right spot that there is NOT A HINT OF GAS SMELL or any other fumes. The exhaust on the top is far enough back that the makeup air travels from the front of the hood (where my hands are) up at a 45 degree angle past the flame and out. Trust me it works fine.

yellowbird · #16 2010-03-23, 8:06am

I'd like to see this in action!

Torched Art · #17 2010-03-23, 8:30am

Wow, I am so impressed with the initiative you have given this. I love your glass displayed on the wall like that. almost a work of art in itself, my first thought was "Gulp! Yum!".

I read you can put only so many beads (30) in your kiln, have you tried shoving them to the side after a few minutes of "cooling"? When I run out of room in my kiln, I just stack the beads on themselves with no problem. I'm just wondering if this would work being how the door is with the mandrels sticking out and with the ledge being there as well. I used another kiln in a class where the door was padded with fiber blanket without a shelf ledge that was in the way, and it was no problem piling up the mandrels and the door closed to keep the heat in.

Frit Diva · #18 2010-03-23, 10:34am

I have exactly the same kiln that Bob has, and I would guess that piling the beads up might result in a mandrel clearance issue with the door. I've never tried stacking beads, but I wonder... what happens if you stack beads so that a bead is touching another beads mandrel or exposed bead release? Is there an issue with transfer or cracking in the annealing process? I've been curious about this but I've never experimented with it. Usually the 30-35 beads I can fit in the kiln is sufficent for a days work, but sometimes I would like to have more room....

Jo

rjw69215 · #19 2010-03-23, 12:46pm

Thanks Christina, my wife says she is going to send me out to you from some classes. My sister-in-law lives in San Diego. I think I might take her up on her offer, I need someone to show me how to encase without making a huge blob of glass.

Torched Art · #20 2010-03-23, 1:08pm

Bob, you are totally welcome to come out for a class. Did you see my website for information?

As far as stacking or condensing the beads, it's perfectly fine after they cool down to the oven temp. I haven't had a problem with sticking, cracks, or bead release. You can see pics on my blog in the "annealing oven" post.

I am wondering if the beads or more specifically the mandrels were shoved to one end after some time in the oven, and still keeping the mandrels as flat as they need to be. I am interested in the kiln, that is why I am curious about it, but if it helps people who currently have this kiln to make more beads in a batch, then we all win.

I guess it depends on the interior and angles and how the beads are placed.

rjw69215 · #21 2010-03-23, 1:36pm

Christina,

it's a very substantial kiln. I think it wouldn't be a problem stacking them closer but I'm afraid to touch them together (my first time using a kiln). So if I do that I could probably get alot more beads in there. I was thinking of just batch annealing, is there a downside to this?

SunDoorBeads · #22 2010-03-24, 6:23pm

This is a great set up!!!!! Cant wait to see the whole room finished!!!

cankeep · #23 2010-03-28, 8:17pm

I have the same kiln and regularly shove the beads over to the side so I can add more. As long as your annealing temp is right you shouldn't have any problems stacking the beads up.

rjw69215 · #24 2010-03-29, 6:30am

Thanks Lezlie thats good to know....I'm getting better about moving things around in the kiln after awhile. I was afraid of making blemishes on the beads but I see that they are pretty durable after a few minutes.

rjw69215 · #25 2010-03-29, 6:32am

The glasshive people set mine up so when I turn it on it goes to 925 and stays there while I put my beads in after making them.....hope this is right..I'm sure it is

thomaspl · #26 2010-03-30, 7:45am

Very nice and congrats. Is there a particular person you would recommend to ask for or you worked with at Corken Steel? I am interested in getting a hood made similar to yours. Thanks in advance!

rjw69215 · #27 2010-03-30, 8:11am

No, I just told them what I needed. I asked for a 3ft deep by 3ft wide by 3 ft high with a 45 degree bend on the top front (6inches). 2 six inch holes near the front and an eight inch hole in the top. This set up works great for me, I guess it depends on the exhaust cfm you will be using the air seems to move the flame around a bit which doesn't bother me might might bother other people. If that's the case don't have them putt the six inch holes in the side, just bring in your make-up air from a 8 inch hole below the table. In my case I couldn't do that. Oh and have corken put a lip all the way around it so it can be attached to the table.

rjw69215 · #28 2010-03-30, 8:12am

Sorry, it's 2 foot high.

cheng076 · #29 2010-03-30, 10:17am

With such a great setup my only suggestion is to install a mirror on the back of the hood so you can see the far side of your work easier. Very nicely done!

Oh yeah.... I don't do many beads but a friend has a perforated metal rack in his kiln that allows layers of mandrels to be stacked by inserting the mandrel end into higher or lower holes; beads do not touch.

Thomaspl.... any competent heating and sheet metal shop should be able to fabricate a similar hood easily. Just take them a drawing or sketch with basic dimensions for a price quote. No need for an elaborate drawing just the basics will do.... in most shops. When they look at the drawing they will ask you about any dimensions etc that they need to do the job.

yellowbird · #30 2010-03-30, 12:47pm

The one problem I think I would have with this set up is seeing what I'm doing . I would need some clip on lamps that would make this pretty much near perfect. Nice job.