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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2013-09-19, 3:19pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 01, 2012
Posts: 386
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Working on a cold bead.
I want to continue decorating a bead that I got too tired to finish. Can I reheat to a certain temp and continue decorating? If so, what temp to I heat the bead in the kiln to?
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carlisle mini cc with M15 oxycon
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2013-09-19, 8:30pm
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Glass-aholic
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Join Date: Mar 21, 2007
Location: CT, tolland CT
Posts: 4,332
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Hypothetically, yes. Ramp up the kiln up to your garaging temp, with the bead in it, and introduce it into the flame slowly. Very slowly. Search for 'repairing a bead' to find out more info.
Usually especially if its a simple bead, it's easier to just start over.
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Minor 10lpm Oxy-Con + HH on Propylene . . . . . .
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WASHERS & TOPPERS - layering components for interchangeable glass topper and to use in other jewelry/metalwork.:
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2013-09-19, 9:44pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 11, 2011
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I've done this with softglass marbles, so I'm assuming it can be done with beads as well. Start with a propane only flame once you take it out of the kiln and keep it out at the end of the flame and then add in O2 slowly. You run the risk of reducing sensitive colors but lessen the risk of cracking the bead.
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2013-09-20, 3:12am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 31, 2010
Location: London, UK
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Yes, it works just fine. Bring the bead up to your garaging temperature (I just do this at the normal full ramp, but you can do a slower ramp up if you're concerned), let it sit in there for a good long time while you make some other beads, use a wet cloth to hold the mandrel where it protrudes from the kiln - it'll sizzle and cool off quickly so you can hold it without burning yourself, then introduce the bead at the very top of the flame and slowly warm it all the way through before continuing work on it. I've done it for 40mm lentils with no problem - smaller beads are easier. I haven't found a propane flame necessary for beads.
There was another thread on this fairly recently where people had some different tips for holding/cooling the mandrel after getting it out of the kiln.
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2013-09-20, 5:07am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 01, 2005
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Kalorlo is right. I make one change, though, as I often work in stages and have to reheat, especially when working with vitreous enamels. I have a very long set of needle nose pliers with a 90 degree bend at the tip. You can reach into the kiln and grab the mandrel just a couple of inches from the bead, then lower the far end into a glass of water. It cools quickly and you can then go into the flame without toasting your fingers. it takes about 2 seconds and I haven't had a problem with cracking when going into the flame again.
Robert
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Robert Simmons
(Former) Director for Bead Donations
Beads of Courage, Inc.
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