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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2005-07-03, 6:21pm
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lunesse lunesse is offline
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Default face shield

I'm thinking I want to buy a full face shield. I know wale makes one, but they have several on their site and I am not sure which is best suited to what we do. Anyone have one and have a good review, Wale or otherwise?

=)
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  #2  
Old 2005-07-04, 8:27pm
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I have a Phillips on a gooseneck, which I love, love, love...keeps the heat off my face, creates a flue for fumes, makes me not so scared of spitting glass, keeps my headache from 2 pair of eyeglasses away, etc...Love, Helen
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  #3  
Old 2005-07-05, 4:50am
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BillBrach BillBrach is offline
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Helen,

I think she is talking about a "welder's type" face shield.

Lunesse,

Personally, I don't recommend this type of shield, just add side shields to your rose dyd's. Those full face shields are great UNTIL they get scratched, which is pretty quick. Then you are spending $10-12 replacing the clear shield portion every six months or more.

If it is popping rods that you are worried about, you will find that as you become a better lampworker, that you learn how to introduce the rod to the flame without it popping.

I usually introduce them something like "Hello Ms. Flame, this is Mr. Rod, please don't pop" Try it, it works !!

Bill
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Last edited by BillBrach; 2005-07-05 at 4:53am.
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  #4  
Old 2005-07-05, 5:32am
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I also have the shield like Helen has. For popping rods I use a ceramic hot iron warmer. I got it at Sally's Beauty Supply and it's just the trick for shocky rods! Just don't put a red hot rod back in it or you'll end up taking the ceramic off! I would think wearing a full face shield would get kinda hot after awhile!
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  #5  
Old 2005-07-08, 9:35am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBrach
Helen,

I think she is talking about a "welder's type" face shield.

Lunesse,

Personally, I don't recommend this type of shield, just add side shields to your rose dyd's. Those full face shields are great UNTIL they get scratched, which is pretty quick. Then you are spending $10-12 replacing the clear shield portion every six months or more.

If it is popping rods that you are worried about, you will find that as you become a better lampworker, that you learn how to introduce the rod to the flame without it popping.

I usually introduce them something like "Hello Ms. Flame, this is Mr. Rod, please don't pop" Try it, it works !!

Bill
It's not popping glass, it's the heat/light. I just don't like it in my face.
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  #6  
Old 2005-07-08, 9:36am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helensharvest
I have a Phillips on a gooseneck, which I love, love, love...keeps the heat off my face, creates a flue for fumes, makes me not so scared of spitting glass, keeps my headache from 2 pair of eyeglasses away, etc...Love, Helen
Maybe I will try that. I have heard the "reach around" is kinda difficult, which is why I was looking at a welder's type mask so that I am still free to look everywhich way, etc.
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  #7  
Old 2005-07-08, 9:41am
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I have mine sitting to the left of me so that I only have the hand that is turning the mandrel under the arm of the sheild! It does help with the face heat also!!
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  #8  
Old 2005-07-08, 9:46am
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When I use mine (the Original Table Shield ) I have it upside down on top of my vent hood, and an extra swivel and rod to extend the arm down and across for better access.

Since I've started working off-mandrel, I've been flailing around so much that I've knocked the doggone thing around, so I had no option but to put it up out of the way.

One of my customers has suspended theirs from the ceiling, with a set of chains and angled so that all they have to do is look down.

I've heard from a couple of people using the gooseneck version that either the heat or the weight of the shield tends to move the gooseneck, so be aware that you may have to readjust it periodically.

If you do decide to go the hood route, I've got the plate available in AUR-92 that can fit *most* hoods - be aware that there are two sizes of plates that fit inside hoods - 2-1/4" x 4" and 4" x 5". The plate I have is 4" X 4".

There's also one of the boro guys who has one of the tinted polycarbonate welders face shields (the whole shield is green). He cut it down with a hand grinder so that only his upper face (from the bottom of his nose) is covered. Most of these will extend down to your upper chest.

If you decide to go with a hood, buy the head gear FIRST. Spend most of your available money on the head gear. It's going to be on your head for a long time during the sessions, so be sure to get one that is comfortable, and one that has replaceable sweat bands. Buy additional sweat bands, believe me, you will need them!

Last edited by MikeAurelius; 2005-07-08 at 9:50am.
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  #9  
Old 2005-07-08, 10:06am
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No problems atall with my table shield either. Mine's Like Helens, and I love mine also!

Its held up for several years without any issue.
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  #10  
Old 2005-07-08, 12:49pm
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I don't know if this is something you might want to do, but I use just a plain clear welder's mask along with my aura-92s. It doesn't make me hot at all, in fact, it keeps the heat off of my face. I'm like you in that regard, I hate that part! I get in close for detail work sometimes and the mask really helps for that. I picked it up at my local welding place for less than 10 bucks.
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  #11  
Old 2005-07-08, 1:08pm
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Hey Carli,

I have one of Mike's shields that I use for Boro.. I wasn't using it the day you were over. I want Dennis to hang it from above which will help me a lot. I have had the same problem Mike's had working off mandrel and it gets in the way.. Other than that, I LOVE it!!

Come on back over and you can try it out!

Kristi
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  #12  
Old 2005-07-09, 4:14pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeAurelius
When I use mine (the Original Table Shield ) I have it upside down on top of my vent hood, and an extra swivel and rod to extend the arm down and across for better access.

Since I've started working off-mandrel, I've been flailing around so much that I've knocked the doggone thing around, so I had no option but to put it up out of the way.

One of my customers has suspended theirs from the ceiling, with a set of chains and angled so that all they have to do is look down.

I've heard from a couple of people using the gooseneck version that either the heat or the weight of the shield tends to move the gooseneck, so be aware that you may have to readjust it periodically.

If you do decide to go the hood route, I've got the plate available in AUR-92 that can fit *most* hoods - be aware that there are two sizes of plates that fit inside hoods - 2-1/4" x 4" and 4" x 5". The plate I have is 4" X 4".

There's also one of the boro guys who has one of the tinted polycarbonate welders face shields (the whole shield is green). He cut it down with a hand grinder so that only his upper face (from the bottom of his nose) is covered. Most of these will extend down to your upper chest.

If you decide to go with a hood, buy the head gear FIRST. Spend most of your available money on the head gear. It's going to be on your head for a long time during the sessions, so be sure to get one that is comfortable, and one that has replaceable sweat bands. Buy additional sweat bands, believe me, you will need them!
thanks Mike. Your knowledge is always a gift. If I go the hood route, I know where to go for the plate, cause I love AUR 92.
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  #13  
Old 2005-07-09, 4:15pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KristiB
Hey Carli,

I have one of Mike's shields that I use for Boro.. I wasn't using it the day you were over. I want Dennis to hang it from above which will help me a lot. I have had the same problem Mike's had working off mandrel and it gets in the way.. Other than that, I LOVE it!!

Come on back over and you can try it out!

Kristi
Oo ya, I'd love to see it! =)
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