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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2021-11-27, 2:09pm
HotglassBurns HotglassBurns is offline
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Unhappy Help with DH Oracle Violet Opal

Hi Bead Brain Trust! Hope everyone had a happy Turkey day! Iíve been trying to get the Violet-Opal to strike like their sample bead. The color is beautiful, Iíd like to achieve that.
Their Sample:

My closest attempt is smallest bead, itís getting there(actually looking at both pics here for first time side by side - I donít have anything freaking close!)Ö one problem with other attempts is the kiln changes the color! Iím using a Paragon Iíve used for years;set to 960 turned first few solid pink!

I Reduced it to 920, tried these, annealed at 920 set using the dial Low-High set so temp sensor shows just around or just below 920. This is closest - smallest oneÖhad shortest time in kiln b 4 shut downÖlike 15 minutes, followed by next size larger thatís just starting to muddy up, canít see the mandrelÖthe clearest one shows mandrel. (Not counting triangle beads)
Mine:

Ideas?

Iíve found it likes cooler temperature flame but never strikes like their sample.

Iíve been making the bead like normal, then cooling it & holding under my work bench till itís no longer showing any heat color 30-50 seconds Im estimatingÖthen hold it in the very tip or front edges of the flame. No changes to flame, just holding bead at very edge, rotating it until it just begins to color from heatÖout till cooler, then backÖrepeating doesnít seem to matterÖmine is no where close to their sampleÖwhat am I doing wrong?

Thank you in advance!
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  #2  
Old 2021-11-27, 2:34pm
ESC ESC is offline
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If I understand what I've read correctly about the temp/garage timing, the lower the temp, the longer the soak. So, if you were soaking at annealing temp of 960 for an hour, you need to extend the annealing time even longer at 920, say an hour and a half or two hours.
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  #3  
Old 2021-11-27, 3:01pm
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KJohn KJohn is offline
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if it helps, the base is clear for that bead, it's not a solid opal purple bead.
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  #4  
Old 2021-12-01, 12:08pm
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rainygrrl rainygrrl is offline
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What kind of lighting did you use for your photo? Some purples look different depending on the light. I think they look more blue under fluorescent and more pink in natural sunlight. Might be worth checking into, along with the other suggestions. Good luck! I'd love to know your results, as I just bought a single rod of this glass.
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  #5  
Old 2021-12-02, 12:56pm
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yonil yonil is offline
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In working with that line of opals from DH, I found that if I can see much cloudiness in the bead by the time it will go into the kiln, it will further opacify a great deal while annealing. So I try to keep the striking as limited as possible while making the bead, so that what the kiln adds doesn't overdo it. I do agree, though, that lighting makes a huge difference. That morning light is hard to beat for glass photography.
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  #6  
Old 2021-12-03, 9:14am
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rainygrrl rainygrrl is offline
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Thanks Yonil!
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  #7  
Old 2021-12-08, 9:19am
HotglassBurns HotglassBurns is offline
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Unhappy I think that may be the trick! Clear core!

Thanks folks! I really appreciate your input!

Sorry for long delay, Iím in a funk for some reason and have lost interest in most everything

I did sit at the torch and try 1 real short session(5 beads) the other day using Kirstenís input of a CLEAR CORE then o-v-o (4th bead, note clear center & colored ends) & theia over the clear. Iím pretty sure THATS IT!! The purple Theia (3rd bead) came out lighter and Iím sure in GOOD SUNLIGHT it will look much better & closer to the sample! I agree, rainygrll & Yonil, sunlight makes a HUGE DIFFERENCE!!!

I was making a barrel with o-v-o over clear and got it outta shape after the STRIKE(which looked real close) but in trying to reshape the barrel I think I reset the damn thing See picture below. The first 2 beads are Elpis(first bead I had used a light blue transparent core that WAS NOT compatible with 104(think itís bullseye left over from a previous mixup)

I think a second reason for colorful ends & clear center is the rolling Iím doing to make the barrel - I was sliding marver as well as rolling it to move glass to even up outside edges of beadÖI think I thinned out the o-v-o in center.

That last bead is MeliaÖ.first try - Iím amazed how easy that one colored up! Lots of potential in that one!!!

The ANNEALING problem is the 920 for 2 hours caused the o-v-o to turn opaque pink & theia to turn very dark that it looks black!! So how do I anneal? Lower temp again & lengthen the time? I actually wrote to DH about that & some questions concerning their terminology on their frit & how to use it when striking/reducing. Iíll share. That annealing problem make sense ESC? Sorry I didnít describe it clearer first time!!

Again thanks everyone for your help!!!

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  #8  
Old 2021-12-08, 12:54pm
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yonil yonil is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HotglassBurns View Post
Thanks folks! I really appreciate your input!

The ANNEALING problem is the 920 for 2 hours caused the o-v-o to turn opaque pink & theia to turn very dark that it looks black!! So how do I anneal? Lower temp again & lengthen the time? I actually wrote to DH about that & some questions concerning their terminology on their frit & how to use it when striking/reducing. Iíll share. That annealing problem make sense ESC? Sorry I didnít describe it clearer first time!!

Again thanks everyone for your help!!!

Just to mention again with the o-v-o: I found that if I purposefully tried to do the strike method (cool, then reheat), it would end up cloudy after annealing every time. So I just work the bead like normal, without the purposeful strike, and it ends up working much more nicely. When I see it get cloudy before going into the kiln, I know it will be overstruck and fully opaque after annealing.

I would also suggest thinning out the Theia. When I make solid-colored Theia beads, they end up darker than I'd like, but over a core of clear, the color really shines. For the size of the beads you're making, I'd think the annealing schedule shouldn't be an issue. I only hold my beads for 30 min. at 920 before ramping down, actually. (I don't make many large things.)

Lovely Melia colors!
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  #9  
Old 2021-12-08, 1:16pm
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Thought it might be good to have some example photos.

Solid Theia, looking pretty dark.
Name:  TheiaSimple.jpg
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Theia blown out into a vessel, to show it's color as it's thicker or thinner. The bird on top is Theia over a core of clear.

Name:  TheiaVessel4.jpg
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Theia over clear, and in some sunlight.
Name:  Violet.jpg
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Opal violet. (Opal violet core, aurae frit, melted in (but not super heated to clear), and cooled a bit before reducing the frit, then encased in clear and shaped into a fish. So these beads did get some striking due to that reduction step, but not the "Heat to clear, super cool, warm again" strike sequence. As I make the fish, the bead does cool off a bit, so there is some mild striking that occurs there as well.
Name:  VioletOpalAurae4.jpg
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Opal violet, same color combo and process. I think this one is cloudier because I used a reduction glass for the fins/tail, and the cool+reduce gave it some extra striking that the previous fish did not get.
Name:  OpalVioletAuraeSilverglass.jpg
Views: 98
Size:  34.0 KB
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  #10  
Old 2021-12-09, 9:49am
HotglassBurns HotglassBurns is offline
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Good morning all!

A BIG THANKS to Yonil for your excellent beads! Very clear(pardon pun) colors with zephyr as the core! PLUS it just makes so much cents (another pun, dohl, sorry)…that also saves the special glass and makes it go that much farther….

THANK YOU YONIL!!

For some reason I have trouble making things small…your fish & birds are beautiful examples of Theia. It’s a very cool color and it truly shines, I now understand what the clear can do as a base, plus they are excellent examples of what you can do with smaller beads. I try, but before ya know it, it’s big! I have seen some gorgeous beads that were very small, about the size of a penny, in a string of 20+, made with DH glass, encased in zephyr, and all beads matched perfectly by Three Muses Glass….

Excellent information & work folks! Thanks a bunch - off to try my hand with DH glass & making my beads smaller. I sorta tried that last night making just plain old round donut shaped o-v-o over a core of zephyr. I DID notice beads clouding up & if that happened I reheated it until it got clear, cooled it & tried the strike again…I didn’t anneal them, just put in a fiber blanket to cool. Will test annealing with 1 Theia & 1 o-v-o ramping up to 920 for 30 minutes then let it cool. If those beads keep their color, I’ll batch anneal all I’ve been putting in fiber blanket.

Thanks again to everyone for your help! I’ll post my latest..
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  #11  
Old 2021-12-09, 11:26am
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yonil yonil is offline
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Best luck! Hope to hear your results!
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  #12  
Old 2021-12-31, 10:08am
Bentley Bentley is offline
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I'm so glad this thread was started because I was so discouraged by my results, I just closeted the glass and frankly forgot about it. Now I need to get it out and try again. I agree that purple bead DH uses for its sample is such a fabulous color. I want that color too.
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annealing problem, double helix, striking silver glass, violet-opal


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