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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2010-06-14, 8:56am
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Default Bullseye Purchase

Well I was gifted some Bullseye glass and as any of you who work with it can guess, I am now in love with the stuff!

I've been searching and reading for the forum as to what colors everyone loves and a lot comes up about the odd lots. I can see why by the beads posted! Amazing stuff!

Here is what I need some help with though. I would like to know the best way to approach "stocking up" on a BE stash. There is the "One of Each" pack. But, that only has one of each rod. Then there is the "Hot Rodz Starter Set". But the rods are not labeled and as the rep told me, it is a random draw. I could get just about anything (except Lusters).

So, if you were to start stocking up today, would you start with one of the sampler sets and some additional glass colors by the oz. or lbs. OR would there be certain colors that you would invest in to start with?

Any and all help would be so greatly appreciated and used!
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  #2  
Old 2010-06-14, 10:19am
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I wish I had advise for you! Love my Bullseye and I am glad my collection started a long time ago. I have very few of the odds though.
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  #3  
Old 2010-06-14, 10:24am
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since they no longer do the Studio Stocker direct from BE, I would probably buy a few of the colors I want and just add as I go along.
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  #4  
Old 2010-06-14, 10:26am
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I'd order colors that you like or tend to use the most.... if you don't go for the greys or dark umbers, why get them in the multi pack? Be sure to order clear, though! Great for diluting and creating great effects with all your other gorgeous opalescent colors. Oh, and don't forget about the frits! They now come in smaller than the one pound jars, so it's easier to spread out your palette.
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  #5  
Old 2010-06-14, 10:48am
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I love the odds!!
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  #6  
Old 2010-06-14, 1:30pm
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Thanks everyone!

Squid and Ofilia, you make great points. I was thinking in a go for it all now mode. I did that with 104 and there are just some colors that sit there barely used. It's not like I won't be able to add more!

An additional question. What is the difference between the Clear and the Crystal Clear? I've been having trouble finding info on that.

Thanks again everyone!
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  #7  
Old 2010-06-14, 2:58pm
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The crystal clear is clear. The clear has kind of a green tint. Unfortunately both of them are far from bubble free. I prefer the Crystal clear.

I use to use the Schott clear. It is not as bubble filled, but I had too many problems with cracking.
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  #8  
Old 2010-06-14, 4:22pm
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Paula has some great BE colors for sale on her site including some samplers I believe. Arrowsprings may still have some left at 50% off closeout. Also, watch the Garage Sale here - that is where I got the mother lode of my BE stash.
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  #9  
Old 2010-06-14, 4:32pm
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nugget is a great neutral that can also be used to create SIS much like in COE 104.
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  #10  
Old 2010-06-14, 5:15pm
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Michelle - thanks for clearing up the clear thing.
Elizabeth - I've checked out the odds that Paula has. She is a great person to deal with, no doubt!
Katherine - thank you! That seems to be a staple on every list so it is going on mine. Thanks for the silver stringer tip!
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  #11  
Old 2010-06-14, 5:25pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glass obsessed View Post
nugget is a great neutral that can also be used to create SIS much like in COE 104.
Do you mean Nougat?
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  #12  
Old 2010-06-14, 6:30pm
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What color palette do you use most often?
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  #13  
Old 2010-06-14, 6:46pm
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Actually Lynda, one thread I found someone was asking what colors would be good to start with (this was when the studio pack was still available and they didn't want to make that big an investment) and you asked a similar question.

Since reading the above replies to my OP, I've been thinking about that answer you gave. I tend to work with the primaries in the midrange level with a few jewel tones here and there. I do plan to pick up one of the lusters, but am having a bear of a time trying to decide which.

I like to layer transparents over opaques for more depth. In fact, one of the things that I am loving about BE is how easy it is to do that and on the other hand how you can alter colors so much more effectively. So, I'm looking to do a fairly even mix of opaques/opal transparents to start.

Thanks for responding!

P.S. If any of this came out garbled, I'm typing 1 fingered on my iPod Touch. Sorry
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  #14  
Old 2010-06-15, 6:19am
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I'll look tonight when I get home for some primary/jewel tone recommendations.
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  #15  
Old 2010-06-15, 6:23am
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Thank you so much Lynda. I appreciate it!
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  #16  
Old 2010-06-15, 8:33pm
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Get some french vanilla & antique white if you like to play with reactions or do a silvered stringer, Karen I started with BE and still love it .

Have you checked this out ? http://www.bullseyeglass.com/education/torchtips/ It will help you get to know BE .
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  #17  
Old 2010-06-15, 8:56pm
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I started out getting the Arrow Springs starter pack that has one of each color plus a color chart. After heating the end of each rod and getting the striking colors to strike, I cut the first 1" off and glued it to my color chart. I ended up gradually buying about 1/2 pound of each color. Now there are just a few that I buy in large quantities, but I like to have a few of each so when I decide to experiment I have what I need. Now I'm gradually getting stocked up on frit.

Bullseye's going to have it's summer sale next month and you get 50% off on rods. You, or a friend/relative, has to be there because they don't take email, phone or mail orders for the sale. They'll ship everything to you, but you need someone to go pick and pay for the rods.

Arrow Springs has a few rods left at 50% off, they have quite a few Odd Rodz at 50% off.
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  #18  
Old 2010-06-15, 9:17pm
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Linda i would love to see some combo samples. You seriously know how to work the bullseye glass!
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  #19  
Old 2010-06-15, 9:58pm
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I definitely would go the sampler pack route and from there buy larger amounts of the colors you really like. You can also try buying one or two rods first of the color(s) you think you'll enjoy. I did more buying of the single rods and then ordering more of what I liked. I have found the white, black and clear made by bullseye are a staple. I don't like the dense white very much because I don't think it is all that "dense". I have found the white opaque is much better and doesn't fade as much. The light cyan blue and petal pink are beautiful, bright colors which are in the bullseye standard line. The NeoLavender opaque and transparent are also beautiful glass.

When it comes to the odd lots, I love trying out alot of them when they come out. I tend to go ahead and buy 1/4lb of the pink odds as they come out just because I love pink. There are some beautiful odd colors still available and if you think you would like them, I'd grab a few of them while their out there. Below is the Aurora and Aurora Dark that were both odd lots made by Bullseye. They are both a striking glass and have beautiful effects. If you see some of this out there, you may want to grab some while you can. Have Fun!
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  #20  
Old 2010-06-16, 1:23am
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Hi
I would by a sampler, clear, white and black. Then I would try the colors in the sampler and figure out what colors I like. Then I would know what colors I like and start buying those colors. You could also check out the gallery and see what's being made with bullseye. I'm sure you would see odd lot colors there. The lusters are awesome! Thats what I do.
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  #21  
Old 2010-06-16, 6:08am
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Leslie! Those colors are on my list as they were 2 of the rods gifted to me and are very nice.
Bonnie, Tanya and Penny - Thank You for all the great advice. So much to think about!
Reenie - I agree, Lynda posts the most spectacular BE beads! (I've been in search mode for days, believe me!)
And Tanya...those beads are delicous!!!
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  #22  
Old 2010-06-16, 6:20am
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Howaco has good prices and you can buy single rods if you just want to try some colors.

http://www.howacoglass.com/90_coe.html
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  #23  
Old 2010-06-16, 6:27am
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Thanks Deb. I went over to her site last night after a few suggestions came my way. Her prices are incredible. I'm thinking that may be the way to go.

Thanks again!
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  #24  
Old 2010-06-16, 6:54am
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Well, thank-you very much for the compliments

Production Rods
General colors
stiff black (both of the opal blacks can bleed under high heat situations. If your making a relatively big bead and you want a "black" base, the charcoal grey transparent doesn't bleed.)
opaque or dense white
french vanilla (can be used silvered)
nougat (can be used silvered)
amber

OK For jewel tone work
Opals/opaques
sunflower yellow ( I like this better than canary, the canary has a bit of a green tint, but that's just my preference. The canary is a brighter color)
Spring green
Pea green
powder pink (this can look like Peruvian opal, and is good for layering)
Sunset coral is a great color in the peachy family.
(There isn't really a great bright opal green)
Opaque Turquoise
Cobalt blue
Gold Purple
baby blue (good for layering)
Deep cobalt blue
Transparents
Red (this is a dense color and a little goes a long way) I have not successfully been able to thin this down with clear to get a less dense red and still get it to strike well
Lt Pink Striker
Cranberry Pink
Violet Striker (this is a great color for petals, it separates some into reddish and violet as it thins out.
gold purple
light sky blue (good for layering)
deep royal blue or Caribbean blue
light green (this is a true green, good for layering)
the emerald green in the BE palette has a bluish tint.
If that's what you're after in a green, then order the emerald
Kelly green (this is a dense color that's good in vine cane)

Sparkle/luster colors
Aventurine green. This is a sparkle color, and you can thin it down with clear, or other transparents
Amber luster - gives a nice gold with a reduction flame. (it also storms nicely)
Either Blue or green luster may go well with your jewel tone palette.

Sizzle stick (GREAT!! dichro for a little bling)

Odd lots that are currently in stock
Bullseye
opal
deep red - I love this color
Transparent
Lt orange striker - this is a must have

Reactive Ice Clear - reacts with copper and silver containing glasses for interesting effects
This is also a good clear for encasing non-reactive colors,
because you can't really burn it.
Mist - gives a shampoo glass appearance
Wisteria - very nice bluish purple
Hematite - storms nicely, good luster effects, can strike to interesting effects if you're patient

Paula - flamedame odds in stock
aurora striking silver glass
Dark aurora
Dark blue aventurine - blue sparkle glass, can be thinned with other colors
Sunset coral light - great peachy/pink color for layering or on its own
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  #25  
Old 2010-06-16, 6:56am
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Their tints are also fantastic for layering, and even encasing
pale yellow, indigo, grass green, erbium pink
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  #26  
Old 2010-06-16, 6:59am
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Hey, I have never tried any other glass than Effetre, so I am very curious about other brands, what is the COE for BE and what is the annealing temperature?
Love this thread! Thanks for asking the perfect question Karen, and thanks for really great answers! All good pointers!
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  #27  
Old 2010-06-16, 7:09am
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Lynda! Thanks so much for taking the time to put together such a thorough list. I just printed it out and I can assure you it will be used. Those are definitely colors that I frequently reach for in my 104 palette.
Thank you again! Oh, feel free to post some of those gorgeous beads of yours. (I'm particularly fond of the fairy you did for a school auction. Gorgeous. Told you I've been in search mode.)
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Old 2010-06-16, 7:13am
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Pia, the COE is 90 and the annealing temp is 960 - 970. Now that is on the production colors. Remember, I am still new to this glass too. As I have been researching there are some odd lot colors such as the auroras which you want to anneal at around 930ish. Squid is the expert on that. Do an advanced search with bullseye and choose the tips, techniques and questions forum. You will come up with a lot of info. You will see some of the most beautiful work too.
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  #29  
Old 2010-06-16, 7:14am
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Beautiful colors. Mind sharing what you used here?
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  #30  
Old 2010-06-16, 7:37am
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Aleta, those are light & dark aurora, all by themselves.
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