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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2010-11-21, 8:58am
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Default *^#*ing glass nippers!

I have had a pair of Corina's glass nippers forever, and have never liked them, the blades never really aligned correctly and even when adjusted, have always slipped out of alignment. They have been OK cutting fairly thin murrini

I ordered murrini from DH and as they had run out of chips they sent me murrini rods - way thicker than anything I've had to cut before. The stupid nippers are just not capable of cutting this thickness without crushing, so I need to buy another tool. Suggestions for the best please. I'm probably looking for wheeled ones right?

A good source would be appreciated, preferably with reasonable shipping to Canada as my local supplier has no wheeled nippers in stock
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  #2  
Old 2010-11-21, 9:21am
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I use both my wheel/disc cutter as well as the Japanese nippers. Please note that not all wheel/disc cutters are created equal. I used a friend's from Frantz an they were stiff and cut poorly with the screw bolt being in the way. Unfortunately I can't remember where I got mine from - either Sundance or Arrow Springs:

http://sundanceglass.com/lgtoolweb.htm
http://arrowsprings.com/html/cut_nip_score.html

Got my Japanese nippers from artcoinc.:
http://artcoinc.com/glass_cutters.php

The wheel/disc ones are easier to master for you can align the rod centered between the discs and perpendicular to them by eye. The Japanese nippers need some practice to find the "sweet spot." Both are great tools for cutting murrinis.

Hope this helps.
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  #3  
Old 2010-11-21, 9:47am
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I love my Japanese nippers from ArtCo! If I'm making my own murrini cane, I don't actually nip it all up. I leave it in cane form as I use it. I heat the end of the cane and place it where I want it on the bead, then nip it off. The Japanese nippers allow me to get pretty close to the bead because of the way they're angled.
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  #4  
Old 2010-11-21, 10:46am
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I use the identical nippers that artcoinc sells; the wheeled nippers. Love them, although they will send your murrini chips flying hither and yon about the room.

Therefore I cut murrini inside a large clear plastic bag....it looks weird as hell, but it's effective.
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  #5  
Old 2010-11-21, 11:23am
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These nippers are on my Christmas wish list!!



http://www.delphiglass.com/mosaic-su...ag-tile-nipper

They are amazingly wondrous.
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  #6  
Old 2010-11-21, 12:01pm
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I have the disc-style nippers and love them. I cut everything from regular cane to stringer, and they work with everything except the thinnest stringer (I use pliers for them).

The cutting in a plastic bag idea is great!!!! The other thing I do (for murrini from a cane) is to hold the rod perpendicular to the table, my nippers parallel to the table, and to cut into a cut-off, medium size mailing tube. To determine the thickness, I found the sweet spot while holding my fingertip at the end of the rod. After a few cuts, you figure out where your hands need to be to get the right thickness.
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  #7  
Old 2010-11-21, 12:06pm
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Thanks you guys!
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  #8  
Old 2010-11-21, 12:57pm
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My son has worn out a couple pairs of wheeled nippers over the years doing mosaics, his current pair are Leponitt and they work so much easier than the cheaper ones. It would take an awful lot of murrini to give them the workout DS does.

I prefer to cut murrini with tile nippers. When I use the wheeled nippers I have a harder time getting even slices. Here's a photo that shows how I am able to line the glass up to get a more even slice. I, too, cut them inside a plastic bag so I don't have to chase them down. This photo shows a ziplock bag, but lately I've been using a thinner bag that doesn't have the ziplock part because it gives my hands more mobility inside the bag.



Here's a close-up that shows the angle of the nippers better.
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Last edited by artwhim; 2010-11-21 at 1:07pm. Reason: Added close-up
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  #9  
Old 2010-11-21, 1:29pm
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When I took a class with Ryan Turner he said that he recommends the Japanese nippers from Artco. He said they cut very thick cane without any problems and stay sharp forever.

I may have to get some myself, as I also have some very thick DH cane that my usual flat nippers won't do.
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  #10  
Old 2010-11-21, 9:45pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kimberly View Post
These are the ones I use. I LOVE mine. Pricey? Yes - but worth it for the way I use them.
Holy crap $90.00? With the exchange and shipping, I'd probably be looking at $120.00 Canadian. Perhaps I should just sell the thick DH murrini and buy some pre-cut! I really won't be using this tool much. I have no desire to make my own, I prefer to buy it.
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  #11  
Old 2010-11-21, 10:32pm
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If you cut a slit in the side of that large ziploc bag, and pass your right hand and nippers through it, and your left hand through the top opening.... you can work easily at a 90 degree angle when cutting murrini.
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  #12  
Old 2010-11-21, 10:51pm
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Carolyn - I can cut the DH murrinis for you . . . mail them to me and give me a few days and I will ship them back. My address is on the first post of SE7
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  #13  
Old 2010-11-22, 4:42am
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I have the wheeled disc cutter that I love. I always leave them right near by so when glass flies off, it usually falls on the plastic covered handles. mmmm burning rubber.
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Old 2010-11-22, 4:46am
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Here you go. http://www.amazon.com/Wheeled-Cutter.../dp/B001S6USI4 and they are on sale too.
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Old 2010-11-22, 5:56am
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Carolyn,

Artistry In Glass has a wheeled cutter for $32.00.
Check these out, maybe they are what you are looking for?

https://artistryinglass.on.ca/store/...RS_p_3587.html
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  #16  
Old 2010-11-22, 6:10am
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I have the wheeled ones, but want something to cut dichro strip ends off at the bead. What are the best ones for wider strips of glass. I'm thinking the chinese nippers? The wheeled ones don't work for wider strips.
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  #17  
Old 2010-11-22, 6:36am
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What exactly are the differences between the cheap and expensive wheeled cutters? I mean why is one $15.99 and one $89? They look the same but I suspect they are not created equal.
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  #18  
Old 2010-11-22, 7:05am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cem View Post
Carolyn,

Artistry In Glass has a wheeled cutter for $32.00.
Check these out, maybe they are what you are looking for?

https://artistryinglass.on.ca/store/...RS_p_3587.html
They aren't currently in stock
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  #19  
Old 2010-11-22, 7:06am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayley View Post
Carolyn - I can cut the DH murrinis for you . . . mail them to me and give me a few days and I will ship them back. My address is on the first post of SE7
That is so sweet of you Hayley, but I don't want to put you to all the trouble. I will buy some, just got to decide how much I want to spend!
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  #20  
Old 2010-11-22, 7:36am
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I have the opposite dilemma. I don't like thick murrini. I like my Corina nippers. A lot. I don't think any of the other ones close as small, do they?
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  #21  
Old 2010-11-22, 11:17am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carolyn M View Post
...Perhaps I should just sell the thick DH murrini and buy some pre-cut...
NOOOOOO! Well, at least not yet!

Here's some of the best teaching advice I've ever received...from our very own Lea Zinke who explained this technique to me and I hope she doesn't mind me passing it forward to others! To you of course Carolyn - if you want to take the time, that is - but also to those who may find they're in the same situation!

And for sure I second the vote for "wheeled" nippers as they are my "must have" tool! As you guys can probably figure, I've cut thousands of slices of murrini being that it's my main seller these days, and I find them awesome and easy to use (even the cheaper ones, like those sold from Delphi, which is where I got mine: http://www.delphiglass.com/beginning...-glass-nippers). It's much easier to gauge the thickness of your slices which wheeled cutters over tile nippers since you hold the rod horizontally and can eyeball the thickness pretty easily from holding in this fashion:



Now on the thick cane murrini (and I faint thinking about all the too-thick stuff I tossed before I learned this technique ), here's what Lea taught me to do:

1. Using tile nippers, wheel nippers or whatever, cut your thick cane into generally 3/4" to 1" nib pieces (and yeah, some times I just hack at it and although not always even, I can get a fairly good 1" piece per hack ). Line them up near the door of the COLD kiln on your shelf and if possible, leave about 1/8" of the end hanging off the shelf, like this:



Gently shut the door but don't latch it! It's a pain to try and yank that sucker open when fully heated, and it usually makes all your hot nibs start rolling around! Yikes!

2. Using a fairly fast ramp up (I just go for full ramp, blast! ) bring them up to about 1125 to 1145 degrees; I don't push it past this as you don't want them to start slumping. Allow at least a 1 hour soak at full temperature; more often than not (especially if the cane is REALLY thick) I allow a 1 1/2 to 2 hour soak.

3. Using two approximately 6" lengths of clear, make a maria on the end of one, and set aside. Heating the tip of the second clear rod to glowing, swing your kiln door open and just touch the end of one of the heated nibs and remove it from the kiln. Gently close your door (not to latch, though) to keep the remaining nibs nice and toasty.

4. Bring the heated nib on the end of your rod into the back of the flame and slowly get it hot again. Be careful and for starters, point it away from you in case it decides to crack! Keep it turning to get it evenly re-heated. When you can see a faint orange glow to the murrini nib, bring your pre-made maria into the flame and get it hot too. Attach that maria to the other end of the now-heated piece of cane (so you now have clear punties holding it, one each side), heat the cane to glowing and slowly pull down. Cut your clear canes off and lay the pull into a foil covered fiber blanket and allow them to slowly cool before slicing.

5. Redo the "maria" on one of the removed clear canes and set aside, then follow Steps #3-4 with the remainder of your heated nibs. You'll have them all pulled down to a nice diameter small cane before 'ya know it!

6. By doing this with each nib piece, you end up with a bunch of smaller pulls, like this:




These can now easily be sliced up and are a much easier-to-work-with diameter. Like this:



It may seem like a lot of work, but I pulled all the Clown Fish 1" nibs down as shown within about 35-40 minutes and it's well worth the time!

Hope this helps!
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Last edited by theglasszone; 2010-11-22 at 12:32pm. Reason: Clarifying!
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  #22  
Old 2010-11-22, 7:57pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erose View Post
What exactly are the differences between the cheap and expensive wheeled cutters? I mean why is one $15.99 and one $89? They look the same but I suspect they are not created equal.
Not sure about the $89 ones since DS doesn't have those, but the difference between the really cheap ones and better ones are the quality of the wheels, they don't get dull so fast plus the cutting action seems much faster and easier on your hands. Also, the wheels on the cheaper ones he had would no longer stay tight. As the wheels dull, you loosen and rotate to a new edge, but his refused to stay tight after a couple cuts. The spring action is better on the higher quality ones too.
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  #23  
Old 2010-11-22, 10:08pm
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I got my wheel-cutters at Harbor Freight. I think they were about $15. So far, they've worked like a champ over the past year.
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Old 2010-11-23, 5:07am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yeepers View Post
These nippers are on my Christmas wish list!!



http://www.delphiglass.com/mosaic-su...ag-tile-nipper

They are amazingly wondrous.
Saw this tool in person at a friends house and had to laugh.
It's a usual tile nipper applied with a cheap cotton tea strainer.
http://www.solarisbotanicals.com/details.php?id=42
Would never buy it for that money.

Elke
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  #25  
Old 2010-11-23, 8:33am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Locococo View Post
Saw this tool in person at a friends house and had to laugh.
It's a usual tile nipper applied with a cheap cotton tea strainer.
http://www.solarisbotanicals.com/details.php?id=42
Would never buy it for that money.

Elke
Did you try them?
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Old 2010-11-23, 9:10am
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Yes tried them, a good wheel nipper indeed, but you can get same quality for less money.

Elke
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  #27  
Old 2010-11-23, 9:22am
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Has anyone tried using washers to set the size of their murrini? Like get several washers, (let's say that they are 1/16th of an inch thick each). Now set those on a table at the height you want your murrini to be (so if you want 3/16", you would set up three of them). Put your murrini in the hole in the washers, then put the face of your nippers against the top of the washer, then nip.

Now when you clip your murrini, they won't go flying, and you'll get a nice even cut. Works with both type of cutters, though I usually use the style of nippers that is not the disc nippers (I can't think of the name of them right now).
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  #28  
Old 2010-11-23, 9:46am
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Default Thick Murrini Cutting Instruction

Quote:
Originally Posted by theglasszone View Post
NOOOOOO! Well, at least not yet!

Here's some of the best teaching advice I've ever received...from our very own Lea Zinke who explained this technique to me and I hope she doesn't mind me passing it forward to others! To you of course Carolyn - if you want to take the time, that is - but also to those who may find they're in the same situation!

And for sure I second the vote for "wheeled" nippers as they are my "must have" tool! As you guys can probably figure, I've cut thousands of slices of murrini being that it's my main seller these days, and I find them awesome and easy to use (even the cheaper ones, like those sold from Delphi, which is where I got mine: http://www.delphiglass.com/beginning...-glass-nippers). It's much easier to gauge the thickness of your slices which wheeled cutters over tile nippers since you hold the rod horizontally and can eyeball the thickness pretty easily from holding in this fashion:



Now on the thick cane murrini (and I faint thinking about all the too-thick stuff I tossed before I learned this technique ), here's what Lea taught me to do:

1. Using tile nippers, wheel nippers or whatever, cut your thick cane into generally 3/4" to 1" nib pieces (and yeah, some times I just hack at it and although not always even, I can get a fairly good 1" piece per hack ). Line them up near the door of the COLD kiln on your shelf and if possible, leave about 1/8" of the end hanging off the shelf, like this:



Gently shut the door but don't latch it! It's a pain to try and yank that sucker open when fully heated, and it usually makes all your hot nibs start rolling around! Yikes!

2. Using a fairly fast ramp up (I just go for full ramp, blast! ) bring them up to about 1125 to 1145 degrees; I don't push it past this as you don't want them to start slumping. Allow at least a 1 hour soak at full temperature; more often than not (especially if the cane is REALLY thick) I allow a 1 1/2 to 2 hour soak.

3. Using two approximately 6" lengths of clear, make a maria on the end of one, and set aside. Heating the tip of the second clear rod to glowing, swing your kiln door open and just touch the end of one of the heated nibs and remove it from the kiln. Gently close your door (not to latch, though) to keep the remaining nibs nice and toasty.

4. Bring the heated nib on the end of your rod into the back of the flame and slowly get it hot again. Be careful and for starters, point it away from you in case it decides to crack! Keep it turning to get it evenly re-heated. When you can see a faint orange glow to the murrini nib, bring your pre-made maria into the flame and get it hot too. Attach that maria to the other end of the now-heated piece of cane (so you now have clear punties holding it, one each side), heat the cane to glowing and slowly pull down. Cut your clear canes off and lay the pull into a foil covered fiber blanket and allow them to slowly cool before slicing.

5. Redo the "maria" on one of the removed clear canes and set aside, then follow Steps #3-4 with the remainder of your heated nibs. You'll have them all pulled down to a nice diameter small cane before 'ya know it!

6. By doing this with each nib piece, you end up with a bunch of smaller pulls, like this:




These can now easily be sliced up and are a much easier-to-work-with diameter. Like this:



It may seem like a lot of work, but I pulled all the Clown Fish 1" nibs down as shown within about 35-40 minutes and it's well worth the time!

Hope this helps!
HOW INCREDIBLY AWESOME of you to detail all of this! Thank you 100 times!
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  #29  
Old 2010-11-23, 9:52am
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theglasszone theglasszone is offline
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Location: In a Glass House, CA
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Kristina...
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~DeAnne~
I've got a murrini for that,'ya know!
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Old 2010-11-23, 10:08am
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GlassMigrations GlassMigrations is offline
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Fantastic suggestion Deanne and great illustrations. Thank you!
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Tanya Harness-Floyd

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