Jen Ken Bead annealer

[aleacim]

So I finally got my kiln!! But all I've done so far is look at it. I'm afraid to turn it on because I might break it or something. I have no clue how to program it and when I read the directions its like a different language. HELP!!! I'd like to program it so when I torch I can put them in until I'm done working and then let it cool. Any suggestions??? Thanks!

[beadgirl]

Aleacim,
Congratulations on your new kiln. Don't worry it will not bite and no you will not break it.
My DH and son made fun of me the first time i used mine it was on a steel table that i rolled away from the wall at leas a foot way. Then I had a fire extinguisher ready too.
Its like riding a bike you never forget but need a refresher once and a while, to program it.
Call whom ever you bought it from for help with the programs.
I have no idea what controller you have on it.
Can you post a link

[Rachel]

what type of controller do you have? I just got a jen ken and I had a difficult time programming it as well. I have an AIM kiln with a fuji controller and I knew how to work it but the jen ken is a bit different. If you received a booklet with it, in the back there is a few pages on basic instructions for schedules for moretti, boro etc. I had to follow the moretti/murano page exactly to get it working the very first time. If you have an Orton controller, I can send a copy of this page in the booklet I have if you need it. I tried to call jen ken when I first got it and I left several messages asking for help and nobody ever called me back. I completely ruined a kiln full of beads one day because I didn't know how to program it properly and something messed up and all the beads were destroyed because the kiln went too high on one of its settings. So, know what you are doing with the controller before putting some beads in there that took hours to make. I would do some test runs first. Feel free to PM me if you need help. I had a hard time with the controller but the kiln itself is fine. I was just used to something different. Good luck and see if you can find that page I am describing in the booklet that came with it.

[kittyluv4ever]

If it is an Orton controller and you need some schedules just let me know. I have a Jen-Ken and have programming for Boro and soft glass and also a batch anneal cycle.

[aleacim]

Its an Orton controller. I have a booklet and tried to fire it up today it took over 5 hours just to heat up and is still cooling down as we speak. I know thats not right UGH

[kittyluv4ever]

I'll pm you the schedules when I get home from work today. Five hours is definitely way too long, mine heats up in about 45 minutes.

[evvybuns]

I received my Jen-Ken kiln a couple of weeks ago. Take it from a former programmer/analyst who is a snob about such things: the Orton controller is the most nonintuitive and primitive "thing" I've ever dealt with. The instructions are poorly written. Orton really needed to sub them out to a technical writer.

I wish I could pass along some things to think about as you program (create a firing schedule) for the first time. Keep in mind that an individual program (the Orton provides for six of them) is broken into segments containing the heat/cool rate (ramp up or down), the temperature, and how long the program should stay in that segment. This is on page 2 of my manual. It says something really dopey in that "for many applications[,] a single segment is all that is required." Huh? Are they kidding?

For the purpose of using the kiln for garaging and annealing your beads (on page 11 of my instructions in the back of the Jen-Ken book), you create a program with three segments: Segment 1 brings the kiln to 940 degress at full power (meaning you don't have to ramp up at a particular rate--just as fast as the kiln will heat) and sit at 940 for six hours while you happily make beads. Segment 2 specifies that the kiln continues to maintain 940 degrees for 30 minutes (to "soak" your beads). Segment 3 then allows the kiln to ramp down at a rate of 600 degrees per hour (10 degrees per minute) until it reaches a temperature reading of 400 at which time the program will end and the kiln effectively shuts off.

Several weeks ago I came across a posting (I think it may have been ln LE) where a kind soul provided achingly specific instructions on programming a controller. I can't remember if it was for an Orton. It was right down to the finger strokes and the number of times you would press a particular key up or down, it seemed. I'm still looking for it for you.

Unfortunately this afternoon I have two long appointments (year-end tax stuff with the accountant and then 17-year-old dog to see the vet) or else I would go out and program a new program while recording what I did. I will try to do so this evening.

[kittyluv4ever]

Turn kiln on
Select one of six programs by striking increase button to scroll through programs ex: Pr 01
Strike program button to start programming.
Ra1 = 1400 degrees (hold the increase button till you reach temp) when you get the number programmed in strike the program button again to move to next piece of programming.
OF1 = 950 degrees (same)
Hld1 = 12.00 (or amount of time you think you may want to work mine is 12 hours)

Ra2 = 1400 degrees
OF2 = 968 degrees (annealing temp)
Hld2 = .30 (thirty minutes, longer if you make larger beads)

Ra3 = 72 degrees
OF3 = 650 degrees (ramp down to below strain point)
Hld3 = .01

Kiln should shut off after last cycle but I do not open mine till it reaches about 300 degrees then I prop the lid open a little to speed up the cooling with out stressing the glass and remove them when it reaches 150 degrees or less. I run all of my soft glass on this schedule 90, 96, and 104 coe with no problems. If you need a batch or boro schedule just let me know. Also if you don't quite understand the directions just pm me and I will send you my phone number and walk you through it.

[aleacim]

Thank you!