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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2018-05-28, 2:39pm
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Moira Moira is offline
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Default Lumiere lusters

I was delighted to receive my super-sparkly package of goodies from Jetage studio - but I'm finding it a bit hard to work with.

I've used pixie dust before without a problem. But! These flakes seem to stick to the hot bead initially, then float off up the ventilation duct whilst I'm melting my clear to encase.

I'm starting with a hot but solid bead, rolling it in flakes quite firmly to encourage them to stick, then rolling the bead above the flame to keep it warm. It seems well-covered and sparkly to start with - but by the time I have a good gob of clear to wipe over it, it's shed like a tree in autumn, and I end up with just some sparkly dots.

Can anyone please offer advice? Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 2018-05-28, 3:44pm
jsknow4445 jsknow4445 is offline
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A very timely request - I just ordered some today. I have a friend that has been working with it for a little while - she loves it. I've seen her work with stringers she had made with it. I'll ask for her input and share as soon as I can. Hope it works out for us - I bought 6 colors - they are all so pretty.

June
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  #3  
Old 2018-05-28, 9:05pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moira View Post
I'm starting with a hot but solid bead, rolling it in flakes quite firmly to encourage them to stick, then rolling the bead above the flame to keep it warm.

After you roll it in the flakes and before you keep the bead warm, "burnish" marvering "the flakes down in a quick rolling motion" per Renee's tutorial.

Here is the link to the pdf:
http://jetagestudio.com/tutorials.html
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  #4  
Old 2018-05-28, 9:38pm
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Has anyone tried these with fused glass?
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  #5  
Old 2018-05-28, 11:07pm
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Eileen, I never used this particular product but have some dichro flakes from BE (coe 90) - in fact small size dichro frit made with thin glass and it works just fine for fusing. Fusing temperatures are really cool comparing to torch ones - 1500F or below that means it is more difficult to burn off the coating even if it is exposed and fused several times. The key thing is not to put a thick layer, thin and even is enough since coating must be in contact with the glass to fuse well. Small amount goes a long way. You can use some fusing glue to help you arrange the flakes, it burns off without any traces.

There are a lot of options - you can arrange a layer of flakes over a sheet of glass of your choice, cover with a layer of clear (or light tint transparent) and fuse. Mix some flakes with clear (or, again light tint) frit and fuse it in a mold or arrange the mix on a piece of kiln shelf paper in a way (in this case you will want some thickness because a layer of 1/4" of cold frit will give you 1/8" or so when fused) and use this thin component later on as a part of another design. For overlaying the colours use clear between the layers of different colors - interesting 3D holografic effects can be achieved this way.
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  #6  
Old 2018-05-29, 9:53am
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Thanks for the reply.
I have used dichroic glass with fusing (never had flakes) but this says it is a different product, a metal if I remember correctly. I have used copper cutouts successfully, but don't know what type metal this is. I tried mica, and the tiny stuff worked fine, but the flakes that were a bit larger created bubbles, which was a kind of cool look if you wanted it, but not if you didn't.
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  #7  
Old 2018-05-29, 11:55am
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Dichroic coatings (on glass) are based on metal oxides too. As well as dichroic extract (basically the powdered coating without any glass in it). And both can be used for fusing. Mica is a mineral and larger flakes can boil at lower temperatures (wiki says aluminium silicate minerals). The flakes in question are "dichroic based on metal oxides" - sounds similar to regular dichro but in other form.

As far as I can see from the manual for the product, it is a coe dependent product. It should have glass in it - dichro extract (no glass, just dichro powder) can be used with any coe.
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  #8  
Old 2018-05-31, 2:07pm
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I've re-read the tutorial and tried again.

This time I started with a barrel instead of a round bead, very hot; laid the flakes onto a graphite marver instead of putting them in a metal spoon; and burnished for longer. They stuck much better.

Other things I noticed: the flakes really show their colour best on black, though dark transparents are ok. Thin encasement, applied one wrap at a time, works best. You can get away with pale transparent glass instead of clear, but too much obscures the flake colour. And the flake colour seems to burn out if worked too hot.

Here are my practice attempts, using Aqua Verde, Inferno and Electra Opal. I'm gradually improving! Sorry about the manky photo.


And - yes, it seems to fuse happily. These drops are 2mm clear over 2mm black with Electra Opal in between, fused at 780 degrees C.
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  #9  
Old 2018-06-01, 12:26pm
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Great job, Moira. The drops are very elegant and flakes show up just like stars
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  #10  
Old 2018-06-05, 10:41pm
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Sold the ones I bought. I didn't like how it floated all over my studio. But does give a beautiful effect on the beads.
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  #11  
Old 2018-06-12, 8:00pm
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Anyone having cracking issues with this stuff? I made a set of 10 beads; 3 of them have cracked. That's a fairly high number for me - one of them may well be an issue with my gazing fondly at it too long, as the crack is straight from hole-to-hole. But the other two are crazed cracks only below in the encasement.


Aimee
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  #12  
Old 2018-06-20, 8:12pm
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I've used the lusters for a while now and haven't had a problem. I make smaller shapes like rounded discs. I roll a small amount of black in the flakes and encase it immediately. I haven't had any reports from buyers of cracking.
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  #13  
Old 2018-06-20, 11:28pm
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Thanks for your input, Cherie. Upon close examination (I picked up Mom's big magnifier today) I believe the areas cracking are where the flakes are very large. I think I make break them up a bit and try some more.


Aimee
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  #14  
Old 2018-06-21, 9:53pm
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Which glass are you using? Just for science sake. Were they the same colors used that cracked?
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  #15  
Old 2018-06-21, 11:25pm
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Effetre black on the inside, encased in Uroboros 104. All the beads in the set were the same.


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  #16  
Old 2018-06-22, 9:03am
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I"M just using Effetre Black and Vetrofond clear
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  #17  
Old 2018-06-26, 6:55pm
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I have been trying to get the glorious stuff to work for me. Still having trouble getting enough on the bead. It marvers okay but after encasing it looks like there is barely any there. Need to practice more I think.
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  #18  
Old 2018-06-26, 7:16pm
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The glass needs to be pretty hot to make this stuff stick to it, in my experience. Since you can't really re-heat or put it back in the flame it you kind of have to get it right the first time! That's my main reason for liking dichro a whole lot better.


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Old 2018-06-28, 10:19am
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I don't marver, I just tap on the side of the jar to get the excess off and then encase. I put them in slightly bigger jars because the small ones are hard to open without losing some of the flakes.
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