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  #31  
Old 2009-02-14, 10:08pm
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Rose,
This is where I got mine. It's exactly the same as the one's in the kits.

http://www.radios4you.com/dcpowersupply-TP1803d.html

You don't need the test lead cable kit that is shown though. You can get just simple leads at radio shack.

Last edited by Melinda Willis; 2009-02-14 at 11:26pm. Reason: TEST LEAD CABLE
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  #32  
Old 2009-02-17, 12:54pm
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Nice job and I have been playing with the messy PCB etch on my copper beads

I have a dc unit I got for niobium from Caswell - about same prices as listing in one of the responses above

but....
1. what is the output of the transformer you have - I like the simplicity of it
2. Do you put tape (or resist of some type ) on the back of the piece you are etching so the back does not start to etch as well and thin the piece out

I like that piece you did - sand it a bit and then enamel it with clear flux
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  #33  
Old 2009-02-17, 1:07pm
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Interesting!

The acid stuff really isn't all that scary though. It's less scary to me than the electricity. lol

I did acid etching for years. Piece of cake.
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  #34  
Old 2009-02-17, 1:24pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rose Leslie View Post
So where do you get the rectifyer? I want to try this only not with the electroforming kit. Yes I have to be anal.
Rose, you can use your electroforming rectifier, no problem. The setup is just like you're elecrtoforming, but the leads are reversed and you use salt water instead of the blue stuff.

You can get resullts like this...



This is the etched cover of my "Owl Box". Rather than use PNP, I used a technique using magazine paper and a laser printer to create the etch. If anyone's interested I'll share the technique with more detail.
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  #35  
Old 2009-02-17, 1:32pm
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Deborah, isn't the voltage output for niobium work really high?

For the etching 15 volts and 3 amps is plenty.
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  #36  
Old 2009-02-18, 10:45am
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Just wanted to add that I used the electroforming rectifier with the Kosher salt and it etched the copper beautifully.
I do have a question about disposal. I have this disgusting sludge that builds up and I want to know what everyone does about disposing of this sludge. I'm on a septic system and not willing to add this to the tank. Filter the sludge and trash it?
Joan
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  #37  
Old 2009-02-18, 1:47pm
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A little somethig else to tweak your brains... brass etches the same way.
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  #38  
Old 2009-02-18, 5:29pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prairieson View Post
Rose, you can use your electroforming rectifier, no problem. The setup is just like you're elecrtoforming, but the leads are reversed and you use salt water instead of the blue stuff.

You can get resullts like this...



This is the etched cover of my "Owl Box". Rather than use PNP, I used a technique using magazine paper and a laser printer to create the etch. If anyone's interested I'll share the technique with more detail.
Yes, please! We would love the details
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  #39  
Old 2009-02-18, 7:38pm
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More details please John.

I would have to suggest just purchasing a rectifier if you are truly going to do etching. It was much easier and I have burned up my first plug already.
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  #40  
Old 2009-02-19, 6:40am
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This will only work with a laser printer, not an inkjet or dye transfer printer.

I set up my image and print it out on a glossy magazine page. It doesn't matter whether the magazine page has any print on it or not, only the image you print will transfer. When the image is printed, I place it face down on the metal to be etched. Make sure the metal is very clean and dry. I usually polish the metal with 0000 steel wool and the clean it off with acetone.

Then take a clothes iron set on cotton (no steam, don't ask me how I know, heheh) and begin pressing the image onto the metal, almost as though I were embossing with the iron. Just keep working the iron across the paper, for a 3"x4" image it usually take 5 minutes or so. You'll begin to "see" where the toner is sticking to the metal and you should be able to see where any bubbles are and work them out with the iron. The paper will appear to be stuck to the metal... don't panic, it should do that.

Once you're satisfied with the contact let the metal cool. Then put the metal in a bath of hot water (tapwater hot is fine, no need to boil or anything). Let it soak for 15 minutes or so. Then gently peel the paper away. It will take a couple of soakings and peelings to get most of the paper off. At that point soak again and lightly rub the design with your fingers to get the rest of the paper off and completely expose the design... you'll understand what I mean when you get to that point.

You can then use a Sharpie to touch any spots that lifted off and proceed to etch.

If you don't like the results, you can use steel wool under running water to remove the toner from the metal. I had to do that 3 or 4 times before I was comfortable with my results.
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  #41  
Old 2009-02-22, 5:21pm
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I spent yesterday and today playing with this. First I tried the magazine paper...to be honest, I got frustrated. I'm sure it was user error. But I had a really hard time getting the magazine paper off without ruining the toner/resist. I got up this morning determined to conquer this...but this time I used the PNP paper. Much much easier for me. Here's a couple (two of the last ones that I did....after figuring out I needed to set the rectifier lower and go slow )

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  #42  
Old 2009-02-24, 4:32pm
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So today a bunch of us Michigan folks got together and tried to use my electroforming kit from Tink and couldn't get it to work. Can anyone tell me what the dials should be set at to make it work right?

We did get it to electroform beautifuly but went back to the old charger idea to etch.
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  #43  
Old 2009-02-25, 5:49am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bead_bug View Post
So today a bunch of us Michigan folks got together and tried to use my electroforming kit from Tink and couldn't get it to work. Can anyone tell me what the dials should be set at to make it work right?

We did get it to electroform beautifuly but went back to the old charger idea to etch.
It should be a matter of reversing the leads and adjusting the dials as with electroforming, voltage all the way up and current off. Then turn the current up until you see bubbling. It will need to be set much higher than with e-forming though, perhaps even maxed out. The only other tip I can think of offhand is to make sure the salt water is very concentrated, it's what makes the current flow.
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  #44  
Old 2009-02-25, 6:24am
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Tracy after I got home I etched using a 6 volt lantern battery. It worked fine. It is slower than a power source but I'm not shorting anything out either. I'm going to try the electroforming power source later today and see if I can get it to work.
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  #45  
Old 2009-02-25, 6:31am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prairieson View Post
It should be a matter of reversing the leads and adjusting the dials as with electroforming, voltage all the way up and current off. Then turn the current up until you see bubbling. It will need to be set much higher than with e-forming though, perhaps even maxed out. The only other tip I can think of offhand is to make sure the salt water is very concentrated, it's what makes the current flow.
It kept clicking on/off, on/off and the current wouldn't stay steady. But we did have a bubbler going to circulate the salt water. I was afraid we would short out the power supply. And maybe we needed more concentrated salt water.
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  #46  
Old 2009-02-25, 7:02am
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It kept clicking on/off, on/off and the current wouldn't stay steady. But we did have a bubbler going to circulate the salt water. I was afraid we would short out the power supply. And maybe we needed more concentrated salt water.
If you're using the beaker from the kit or a similarly sized container, the bubbler really isn't necessary. The agitation from the etching action is plenty.

It sounds like there was a fault in the circuit somewhere, most likely a boogered up connection. Or it could need more salt. I use about 3/4 C of kosher salt per pint of water. Iodized salt really doesn't work well at all.
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  #47  
Old 2009-02-25, 7:19am
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I'm loving this. Spent days drawing on copper plates and then running them through the etching bath. I am amazed by the level of fine line that we can achieve with this process.
My dh thinks I've gone over the top, but he can't argue with the results and "it is just salt, honey."
Joan
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  #48  
Old 2009-02-25, 11:50am
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John you were right! I tried it at home with really saturated salt water, better connections and no bubbler and it worked. The power supply just stayed on. The voltage did tend to go way up and then back down for no reason.
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  #49  
Old 2009-02-25, 12:41pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papimom View Post
Just wanted to add that I used the electroforming rectifier with the Kosher salt and it etched the copper beautifully.
I do have a question about disposal. I have this disgusting sludge that builds up and I want to know what everyone does about disposing of this sludge. I'm on a septic system and not willing to add this to the tank. Filter the sludge and trash it?
Joan
Joan,

The used solution has a very high concentration of copper salts. You do not want to pour this down the drain, that goes for everyone, not just people on a septic system.

How to dispose of this solution is governed by your local hazardous-waste regulations in your state or county. Because of the small amount I have had them allow disposal for free or once I paid $3.00 to dispose of the spent jar of solution.

To me it's worth it and it saves the environment and my pipes.

This subject seems to get ignored here and other places, but the disposal of the waste from etching should be handled properly. Thank you for checking!!



Is everyone aware that step by step instructions for this process including the use of PnP paper has been published in the november 2008 Art Jewelry Magazine??

It's entitled D Battery + Saltwater Cheap acid-free etching.

Here is a link to how to use the pnp paper
http://cs.artjewelrymag.com/artcs/bl...pnp-paper.aspx

Caio
Kristi
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  #50  
Old 2009-02-25, 6:27pm
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It must have been the connection because I had so much kosher salt in the water that it wouldn't hold anymore and some was still settling to the bottom of the pitcher I was mixing it in. I went back to the old cell charger and all worked great.

I know that if you reverse the leads that your design will bubble off in just a few seconds. It was terrible to watch a half hours worth of doodle fly away in seconds so that wasn't the problem.

I will try the electroforming power source again.
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  #51  
Old 2009-02-25, 6:37pm
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So the positive goes on the one you're trying to etch? is that correct?
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  #52  
Old 2009-02-25, 7:48pm
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OMG. I am seriously infatuated with this idea. There goes the rest of my spending money for a while!
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  #53  
Old 2009-02-26, 4:24pm
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Yes positive on etched piece.

This doesn't cost much at all just some kosher salt, some sort of resist, any permanent ink works, some copper it runs around 4 bucks a square. It looks like you already have a power source so go for it.
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  #54  
Old 2009-02-26, 11:03pm
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Thank you Prairieson
I have had success today. Yesterday I tired different prints on copper and brass and they just bubbled off in the salt solution in front of my eyes.

Today I tired your glossy magazine paper through the photocopier and after ironing then soaking realised it was much tougher.

I decided to forget about the salt solution and set up for electroplating as usual and just put the pieces (piece to be etched = bead) on the opposite sides to normal. My volts were in the 3.?? and amps 2.??. then I forgot it for 40 minutes. Here it is straight out of the bath.
Will post again when I have cleaned and polished.
Bev.B
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  #55  
Old 2009-02-26, 11:55pm
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Here is the piece. Cleaned off with solvent. Dipped in Liver of Sulphur and then buffed.
I much prefer to use my normal electroforming solution as it is only copper to copper in the opposite direction. Taking from one and coating the other.
Bev.B
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  #56  
Old 2009-02-27, 4:54pm
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Lovely piece Bev.
Some friends and I were talking today about using the method you just described. Good to know it will work.
Thanks.
Joan
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  #57  
Old 2009-02-27, 7:12pm
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That is beautiful Bev.

Did you actualy electroform something while etching?
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  #58  
Old 2009-02-28, 1:17am
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Hi Tracy
No, I was having absolutely no luck with the salt method, so I just set up for my normal electroforming and put the pieces on the opposite sides to mormal electroforming.
My piece of copper I was using for beads has now grown lumps down one side. I upped the voltage and the amps. I usually run at 0.3 amps or less and set it at 2.??. It seemed to change. I had the etching hanging too far in the water and my copper wire also etched away and I was alerted by the plop into the water as they broke. Took about 40 minutes (I think).
Well worth a play if you have the equipment. Was really easy. Give it a go.
Bev.B
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  #59  
Old 2009-02-28, 11:23am
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I am going into the studio right now to try this. When you electroform that copper will be used up again off your hanging copper so it will be like recycling and the copper won't end up at the bottom of the glass jar but ready to use again. Great thinking.
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  #60  
Old 2009-03-01, 10:57am
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I made some bead caps with the etched copper. I really like how they look.

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